847 replies to this topic

[fuzzy-hair-man]

 Those brown and brown/red wires may be for your alternator?

 

There's a plug and ring connector towards the front of the engine that does that I think...

 

The black spade connector looks like a more traditional mini connector so I'd guess it would be the oil pressure switch. (is it a sender or a switch? the sender I got is way bigger so I figure it's a switch).

 

You could get a multimeter (measuring resistance) and see where it connects to starter motor will connect to ignition, oil pressure will either go to a globe or gauge (depending which it is).

 

WR (white / red) seems popular as the wire between the ignition and the starter solenoid (can't see the wire on the other spade terminal) on all my mini wiring diagrams it would make sense if SC kept roughly to mini colours.

 

It's a SC loom for the K1100 head? they don't give a wiring diagram or something?

[AndyR]

The red/brown is the trigger for the starter motor.  I scratched my head a fair bit with that one too as it was the wrong connector for my starter, so like others assumed it was a sensor.  You may need to change the terminal to fit your starter.

 

Andy

[minisilverbullet]

A big update! cams timed in (I hope)

 

So after tapping the head for the oil feed and flushing it out, I was able to refit the cams. While I was at it I set the lift. 

 

I tired following the SC guide but that method just was not gonna work. They state:

 

- To set the engine to TDC on piston one.

- set the cam lobes on the inlet and outlet so it just before any lift on piston one. This in essence sets the lobs on the inlet and the outlet pointing inwards. 

- loosen the vernier pulley bolts. 

- Add the belt, making sure that there will be enough movement in the vernier pulleys (I.e the bolt is in the middle of the slot) 

- tension the belt (making sure TDC doesn't move) 

- Torque up the tensioner. 

- Then set the lift on piston 1 to 2mm on both the inlet and outlet using a dial gauge which sits on the cam bucket and follows its movement. This step takes ages to set up the dial gauge. 

 

I tried this method a number of times. 

 

Now the problem I had with that method is that I ran out of movement in the vernier pulleys.   Even when I repositioned the belt (retentioned  etc) so I would have maximum movement in the verniers (meaning that the i made sure i had the full slot for movement, intend of setting it in the middle) I ran out of movement at around 1mm lift. 

 

Instead i removed the belt and then set up the lift on the cams without the belt. Added the belt and set the tensioner making sure the cams didn't move. making sure the vernier were in the middle of the slot and then tightened these up.

 

Has anyone managed to use the method SC have in their build guide? 

 

This is the position of the cams at TDC after setting 2mm lift. 

 

 

 

 

Just of the phone to John at SC. I wanted to double check my cam timing procedure and it was fine. However he mentioned that the lift should actually be 1mm not 2mm as I have set it. 

 

Their guide states 2mm for LT cams and 2.6mm for RS cams, but they have since done a lot of dyne testing and have found that 0.9 - 1.1mm works best. 

 

So I guess of with the cam cover, clean all the sealant of the rubber gasket, cut another paper gasket for the cam plate and battle with the dial gauge again. 

[minisilverbullet]

Well the sealent i used Permatex "THE RIGHT STUFF" is definitely strong. Even when i removed the cam bolts i could lift the whole engine by the cam cover only held on by the sealant. 

 

Also has taken me 3 hours to clean it of from the head, cover and old rubber seal! 

[minisilverbullet]

So cams now timed to 1mm of lift and  cover back on. 

 

I also found a fan belt to suit 800mm long. I am just waiting for a 150mm m8 bolt for the alternator. I used some threaded bar but it was bending. 

 

 

 

Tonight I offered up the radiator. I had to modify the engine mount bracket to clear the trigger wheel. I also slotted the holes on the radiator bracket (thanks to good advice on here).

 

 

 

 

When I offered up the radiator cowling it fouled the trigger wheel centre. the problem area was the square section which covers the tube where the long bolt goes through. 

 

You see it is very tight: (approx 3mm, too close?)

 

 

Also is this how the fan should be in the cowling, or is it too far in? 

 

[59 Speed]

Looks too far into the cowling to me.

Also looks like the pulleys might not be inline as the belt looks kinked at the top of the water pump pulley (I might be wrong on this).

I have only one spacer which is between the water pump and the pulley. Do you already have one there?

[minisilverbullet]

Looks too far into the cowling to me.

Also looks like the pulleys might not be inline as the belt looks kinked at the top of the water pump pulley (I might be wrong on this).

I have only one spacer which is between the water pump and the pulley. Do you already have one there?

I used 2 spacers, i try it with one. I am trying to keep the fan as far from the silicon  hose as i can. 

 

It is a MED pulley and I believe it has a built in "spacer" 

 

As for the alignment of the belt, you are right, but at the moment the alternator is just basically hanging there (i.e the bolt hasn't been tightened)

[Richie83]

I've got one spacer on mine and it doesn't rub. It's close, but works fine.

[minisilverbullet]

 

 Those brown and brown/red wires may be for your alternator?

 

There's a plug and ring connector towards the front of the engine that does that I think...

 

The black spade connector looks like a more traditional mini connector so I'd guess it would be the oil pressure switch. (is it a sender or a switch? the sender I got is way bigger so I figure it's a switch).

 

You could get a multimeter (measuring resistance) and see where it connects to starter motor will connect to ignition, oil pressure will either go to a globe or gauge (depending which it is).

 

WR (white / red) seems popular as the wire between the ignition and the starter solenoid (can't see the wire on the other spade terminal) on all my mini wiring diagrams it would make sense if SC kept roughly to mini colours.

 

It's a SC loom for the K1100 head? they don't give a wiring diagram or something?

 

no wiring diagram. I have sent picture of the wires in question to SC and wait for a reply. 

[minisilverbullet]

In the picture above of the fan, I actually had it on the wrong way round. I turned it round and I will need to use two spacers on the fan. 

 

Radiator cowl and radiator offered up again. The radiator bracket clears the trigger wheel by about 4mm. In fact everything clears, but it is all tight:

 

Here is the oils drain and the bottom hose snaking around the cam belt:

 

I need to find a method of supporting the radiator at the top. I need somthung which connects the 2 "legs" on the cam plate to the cowl:

 

Also played around with the thermostat, it will work like this with an addition of a u bend. But I am gonna have a search here to see what others have done.

 

 

 

 

Got a nice set of stainless manifold studs (again a small company selling in ebay) 

[minisilverbullet]

Also, I wonder how the cooling system should be "plumed in". I currently have smaller diameter a hose coming of the the bottom hose and a similar diameter hose from the thermostat bypass. I assume these will plum onto the exiting heater hoses? Or into each other?

[minisilverbullet]

I wonder which terminal on the starter is the trigger the larger or the small spade terminal?

 

[Magneto]

The small spade terminal on the starter is the trigger.....

[minisilverbullet]

The small spade terminal on the starter is the trigger.....

many thanks! 

[minisilverbullet]

I just ordered a base plate for the smaller ITG domed filter. 

 

 

 

I figured I can play around with just the one base plate before making a full order. 

 

 

 

The idea is to run 2 of these filters allowing space for the throttle cable. We see…...

So the backplate arrived, as i thought the throttle cable holder is in the way. 

 

I can see it working so I caved in to finding a neat filter solution and have just bought 4 sock filters.