847 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

Spacers for the alternator arrived:

 

2 13mm spacers to bring the adjuster away form the alternator and a 80mm spacer for in-between the water pump ear and the old alternator bracket. I am not happy with the position of the alternator, you will see it is on a slight angle (first picture below). I think though this is due to the top bolt hole in the alternator being a little large (10mm and I am using 8mm threaded bar). I will need to source a insert. I have looked around the house too find something suitable but nothing. 

 

 

Original fan belt almsot fits, just a bit too long:

 

Spacer:

 

[minisilverbullet]

Also looking at what air filter will suit. Specialist components sell an ITG domed/sausage panel filter with backplate, but it is a tad pricey. They state it suits their 7 port and 16v heads. 

 

I have found this piper cross filter which is almost identical:

 

 

 

I am struggling to see it working, i guess the back plate will sit between the bmw throttle bodies and the lip on the new ram pipes, since there is a 3mm gap there. However, the throttle cable "holder" will also need to enter the backplate as will the side of the throttle position sensor. Has anyone made this kind of filter work? 

 

 

Another option is obviously individual cone filters, but this would mean i can't use the ram pipes.  

 

Third option would be socks, but I have seen some threads online where they have ripped etc. 

[Midas Mk1]

ITG is one of the best, i'd get it anyday over piper cross, k&n etc

 

Love this build

[59 Speed]

Have you looked at Ramair filters?

http://www.ramair-fi...tbs-automotive/

[minisilverbullet]

Have you looked at Ramair filters?

http://www.ramair-fi...tbs-automotive/

I did.

However, when looking at the filters with a back plate i didn't find anything suitable. These look like they might be alright:

 

[Pickup76]

I found that my choice was totally driven by clearance from the ram pipes to the front slam panel. I have less than 10mm there and about 5mm between the manifold and bulkhead...

I went with the ram air sock filters.

Another clearance that needs consideration, have you taken any measurements for bonnet clearance? Seems some cars are ok and others not. Seeing as i didnt want a bonnet buldge i've dropped the engine 1/2" with an auto subframe.

[minisilverbullet]

I found that my choice was totally driven by clearance from the ram pipes to the front slam panel. I have less than 10mm there and about 5mm between the manifold and bulkhead...

I went with the ram air sock filters.

Another clearance that needs consideration, have you taken any measurements for bonnet clearance? Seems some cars are ok and others not. Seeing as i didnt want a bonnet buldge i've dropped the engine 1/2" with an auto subframe.

I dont have the engine in yet so can't determine the bonnet clearance. I have a set of rear bonnet lifters which I thought i would try first. Failing that a fibre glass bonnet. Failing that a bulge or the low profile cam cover. 

[minisilverbullet]

Seems like you can get the double ram air socks (as posted above) with an internal stainless cage. 

[minisilverbullet]

I just ordered a base plate for the smaller ITG domed filter. 

 

 

 

I figured I can play around with just the one base plate before making a full order. 

 

 

 

The idea is to run 2 of these filters allowing space for the throttle cable. We see…...

[minisilverbullet]

one 1/8NPT 3AN hose fitting successfully installed in the head. 

 

 

 

It was a bit nerve wrecking if I am honest. The hole drilled extremely easily and the tapping the hole was easy also. I added a little plumbers tape to the threads. 

 

As I screwed it in it got gradually tighter, I guess that is the tapered shape working. So I would call it a success. 

[minisilverbullet]

A big update! cams timed in (I hope)

 

So after tapping the head for the oil feed and flushing it out, I was able to refit the cams. While I was at it I set the lift. 

 

I tired following the SC guide but that method just was not gonna work. They state:

 

- To set the engine to TDC on piston one.

- set the cam lobes on the inlet and outlet so it just before any lift on piston one. This in essence sets the lobs on the inlet and the outlet pointing inwards. 

- loosen the vernier pulley bolts. 

- Add the belt, making sure that there will be enough movement in the vernier pulleys (I.e the bolt is in the middle of the slot) 

- tension the belt (making sure TDC doesn't move) 

- Torque up the tensioner. 

- Then set the lift on piston 1 to 2mm on both the inlet and outlet using a dial gauge which sits on the cam bucket and follows its movement. This step takes ages to set up the dial gauge. 

 

I tried this method a number of times. 

 

Now the problem I had with that method is that I ran out of movement in the vernier pulleys.   Even when I repositioned the belt (retentioned  etc) so I would have maximum movement in the verniers (meaning that the i made sure i had the full slot for movement, intend of setting it in the middle) I ran out of movement at around 1mm lift. 

 

Instead i removed the belt and then set up the lift on the cams without the belt. Added the belt and set the tensioner making sure the cams didn't move. making sure the vernier were in the middle of the slot and then tightened these up.

 

Has anyone managed to use the method SC have in their build guide? 

 

This is the position of the cams at TDC after setting 2mm lift. 

 

 

 

[minisilverbullet]

Beyond the cam timing above,...

 

The  3 way oil adapter arrived:

 

 

And the oils feed line in:

 

 

 

I guess the clearance for this hose and the is alright? Does the fan deflect much? I have uses 2 spacers. 

 

 

I added some joiners to make the hose fit a bit better, but as you see it is tight around the cam belt.  

 

 

 

 

 

[minisilverbullet]

Feel like I am getting closer. 

 

"popped" the cam cover on. Firstly, I had to trim the BMW seal to fit the trimmed down cam cover. Some sealant on both sides of the seal, not sure if it was needed, mane a bit  belt and braces. But there was sealant on both sides of the gasket when i got it, so I figured i would do the same. 

 

 

I knew that the seal between the cam cover and the cam plate would be a weak pint, so i bought the best sealant i could. I did a bit of research and went for "the right stuff" by Permatex, which cam in an aerosol can and was real easy to apply. 

 

The corner where the rubber gasket and the cam plate meet, seems like a weak spot, so there is a little extra sealant there. 

 

 

 

I cleaned and painted the starter: I guess there is no special procedure for installing the starter, just bolt it in? 

 

 

 

Spark plugs in and HT leads on: can anyone confirm the which plug goes where on the electronic ignition? 

 

 

Things starting to get tight at the rear also. good thing i decided to wrap the exhausts it it is very close to the silicon oil drain.

 

[minisilverbullet]

Couple of weeks ago i gave the clutch clevis an attempt, I got as far as get the clevis pin (took around 45 minutes of trying, lying upside down etc). I also tried the split pin but there was no luck. 

 

Today I gave it a second attempt, I first took the clevis pinout again to make sure the split pin was the right size and would actually go through the clevis. It was fine. Belive it or not I had the clevis in and split pin in, in about 3 minutes. 

 

Real bad weather today so I spent most of the day ion the mini. 

 

Offered up the wiring loom, pretty straight forward,

 

but I am a bit unsure about the two rings ( i guess they go on the starter bolt). And I am unsure which spade terminal goes on the starter and which is the oil pressure sendor. Any input? 

 

 

Also here is the starter, one of the terminal spades is missing. I assume all terminals on the starter are live? 

 

Also finished tidying up the engine bay. Not quite the smooth and tucked result I had in my imagination, as there really is lots going on wiring wise. But I think it is alright.

 

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Your wiring looks nice and neat. I never understand how some people get their engine bays looking so uncluttered. Those brown and brown/red wires may be for your alternator?

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 10 July 2016 - 07:41 PM.