847 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

I though that was standard as nothing aligns.

But they should point out how the oil feed works.

Seems there are 2 options: use the internal feed or the external feed. 

 

 

Though SC prepared both the block and the head, i would have thought that, since they totally dry decked it that they would have drilled and tapped the head.

[nicklouse]

But dry decking normally only refers to the waterways NOT the oil.

Defiantly phone (Skype) tomorrow. And see that they prepped it for.

[Pickup76]

I'm just finishing my sc k1100 build currently and went for the dry deck option the same as yours. As it came from sc the oil feed grub screw was still in the back of the head. I just removed this and screwed in an 1/8npt fitting with -3 line down to a tee on the oil pressure switch.

Chris

[minisilverbullet]

I'm just finishing my sc k1100 build currently and went for the dry deck option the same as yours. As it came from sc the oil feed grub screw was still in the back of the head. I just removed this and screwed in an 1/8npt fitting with -3 line down to a tee on the oil pressure switch.

Chris

 

yip having spoken to John at SC he explained the same. I assume you retapped the hole?

[Pickup76]

I didn't retap the hole actually and just went with the original size. What did John recommend making the size?

[minisilverbullet]

He recommended to tap the hole to 1/8 NPT originally it is m8. 

 

He wasn't sure what drill size when i caught him, but google suggests 11/32 or 8.7mm

[minisilverbullet]

 

Reflecting upon the 'dry decking'
 
I wonder where does the oil feed come from? 
 
is it from the large diameter hose on the side cam cover?

The oil feed can still come through the block if either the oil-way in the block or head are relocated slightly. There should be some instruction in the build book for that.

If you are going for a truly dry deck then there is an oil plug on the back of the cylinder head near the pulley end with a small grub screw in it. This is usually drilled and threaded out a bit bigger and fed via a hose from the oil pressure switch, a bit like a turbo oil feed. Again this should all be in the build book.

Phil.

 

 

So as phil said: I need to run a line from the oil pressure switch to the hole at the rear of the cylinder head (which needs drilled and tapped to 1/8 npt).

 

As I understand I need:

a "an -3 hose"

a 1/8 NPT to AN3 (male to male) for the cylinder head

a 1/8 NPT to AN3 (male to male) for the the block/pressure switch

2 an3 hose fittings.

 

Here is where it gets a bit complicated, i run a pressure gauge already from the pressure switch on a t piece. this what i have:

 

 

I guess I could just at another t piece (or?) or is there a better solution?

[AndyR]

This is how ive got mine setup.  1/8npt to block.  The pressure switch directly into 1/8npt hole on the hex and a -3 fitting also 1/8npt for the head oil supply.  And one blocked off for a rainy day!

 

[minisilverbullet]

This is how ive got mine setup.  1/8npt to block.  The pressure switch directly into 1/8npt hole on the hex and a -3 fitting also 1/8npt for the head oil supply.  And one blocked off for a rainy day!

 

 

Cheers Andy!

 

that would work perfecty for my application. 

What is this kind of adapter called ( so i can search for it) 

[matty...]

I used an 1/8 bsp to parrell thread adaptor, then fitted a banjo bolt. Mine also feeds the turbo, but by having an adaptor permanently fitted its saves swarf being pushed through the thread into the cam oil gallery every time you tighten it, and especially in aluminium it won't wear the threads out. Cast Aluminum is really not suited to fine tapered threads.

Like this.

Edited by matty..., 28 June 2016 - 09:00 PM.

[minisilverbullet]

This is how ive got mine setup.  1/8npt to block.  The pressure switch directly into 1/8npt hole on the hex and a -3 fitting also 1/8npt for the head oil supply.  And one blocked off for a rainy day!

 

 

 

Found it at demontweeks. 

[AndyR]

Glad you found it.

 

I like to use torques uk, they only have an ebay shop but their service is great and the quality of their an fittings are really good.  And they have a really good selection of all an type fittings.

 

Andy

[minisilverbullet]

So I ordered a collection of hose fittings and stainless braided teflon hose. 

 

Not sure what they are called but, I guess this type of fitting (i.e the kind you build the line up yourself with) will work? 

 

 

I have googled around for the correct drill bit size for a 1/8NPT tap, consensus seems to point to a 11/32 bit (though some said 8.7mm, which is slightly smaller). can anyone confirm that? 

 

many thanks

 

Craig 

[minisilverbullet]

Glad you found it.

 

I like to use torques uk, they only have an ebay shop but their service is great and the quality of their an fittings are really good.  And they have a really good selection of all an type fittings.

 

Andy

yes! I bought everything else from Torques. Competitive prices, cheap postage and as you say they appear to have quality brands/products 

[59 Speed]

I have googled around for the correct drill bit size for a 1/8NPT tap, consensus seems to point to a 11/32 bit (though some said 8.7mm, which is slightly smaller). can anyone confirm that?

 

Some places say a Q size drill bit, some say R

 

Q being 8.4328 and R 8.6106mm

 

http://www.smithbear...tionalChart.pdf

 

Whenever I've drilled anything for a 1/8 NPT I've always used 8.5mm and it always seems fine (low pressure stuff though)

 

Hopefully someone will agree with this size.

 

You could do a practice hole to check.