847 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

Well a couple of steps backwards this evening….

 

I thought I would set top dead centre on piston one and set the trigger wheel up and maybe time the cams. 

 

I started to turn the crank by hand and something was binding. I could not really figure it out.

 

The only thing I could think it could be were the valves, so I started to remove the head to inspect. To remove th head you need to remove the camshafts first. As I half way through, I thought I would rotate the engine again and it sounded like it was binding at the flywheel. 

 

A bit of head scratching, and I decided to remove the engine mount on the clutch housing side. That was the issue the bolts I had used where too long.

 

Checking again on minispares seems there were the correct length? 

 

 

So I started to refit the camshafts.in doing so however, the two round springs which sit in the oil seals in the cam cover must have popped out of place. Resulting in one being chewed up when i torqued the cam bolts. 

 

So I will need to sources two new springs. Anyone know what they are called? EDIT: springs are called garter springs, I will buy a new seal instead. 

 

 

[minisilverbullet]

Reflecting upon the 'dry decking'

 

I wonder where does the oil feed come from? 

 

is it from the large diameter hose on the side cam cover? 

[minisilverbullet]

 little progress today. 

 

Got the trigger wheel set up at TDC. 

[minisilverbullet]

Currently one of the mounting holes on the alternator is 10mm ideally it would be 8mm, is there such a thing as an insert /bush I can buy. 

 

My old alternator had a split steel insert to reduce the hole size, 

 

Any tips on what such a thing would be called or where ti buy would be appreciated 

[nicklouse]

Make one.

Consider the use of the insert. It is to slide in the alternator to take up slack in the system.

The belt end is mounted fixed and the other provides a pivot and the sleeve slides to take up any missmatching.

[minisilverbullet]

Not sure how I would make one, 

[nicklouse]

All you need is a bit of tube and drill it out to take the bolt size you are going to use.

Just needs to be a tightish fit in the alternator.

Does not need the split.

[zebigfatman]

This looks awesome! should be excellent when your finished.

This conversion was something I considered but the cost of the engine put me off and the appeal of 5 gears sold the micra engine for me. Anyway good luck with the build and also I love the silver! I'm guessing its not a standard colour?

[phil hill]

Reflecting upon the 'dry decking'
 
I wonder where does the oil feed come from? 
 
is it from the large diameter hose on the side cam cover?

The oil feed can still come through the block if either the oil-way in the block or head are relocated slightly. There should be some instruction in the build book for that.

If you are going for a truly dry deck then there is an oil plug on the back of the cylinder head near the pulley end with a small grub screw in it. This is usually drilled and threaded out a bit bigger and fed via a hose from the oil pressure switch, a bit like a turbo oil feed. Again this should all be in the build book.

Phil.

[Northernpower]

Some final bits arrived today:

 

4.2 inch MED water pump pulley 

nippon denso alternator

Engine mount "plate" all the way from Barcelona (wasn't the easiest to find)

a 90 degree hose and connectors. 

 

 

 

 

Well the 4.2 inch  pulley clears the oil hose perfectly. 

 

 

It is amazing how small the denso alternator is! 

 

 

 

Seems like the 90 degree hose i tried to use before was pretty poorly made, I.E it wasn't actually 90 degrees. the new ones seems to fit much better. I will order one more and use a joiner and it will clear the crank breather just fine. 

 

 

Seems like the fan will not clear the oil hose. This hose had been a bit of a pain (see water pulley issue above). It was supplied as an add on to the kit. I think i will need to shorten the "legs" both sides of the cam belt. 

 

Next up is the clearance between the crank damper/trigger wheel and the radiator/engine mount bracket.

 

 

It clears but it is extremely tight. 

 

 

 

I hope it is enough just to grind the bracket a little? 

Looking at your bottom bracket you have the same problem as me. I decided to reinforce mine and then remove some of the original metal. My idea is to enable me to be able to change the fan belt without removing the bottom bracket; all i have to do is remove the sensor bracket with the sensor still attached. By cutting away the metal and sliding back the rad mount I can just get the fan belt past it.

[minisilverbullet]

 

Reflecting upon the 'dry decking'
 
I wonder where does the oil feed come from? 
 
is it from the large diameter hose on the side cam cover?

The oil feed can still come through the block if either the oil-way in the block or head are relocated slightly. There should be some instruction in the build book for that.

If you are going for a truly dry deck then there is an oil plug on the back of the cylinder head near the pulley end with a small grub screw in it. This is usually drilled and threaded out a bit bigger and fed via a hose from the oil pressure switch, a bit like a turbo oil feed. Again this should all be in the build book.

Phil.

 

I have a feeling I may have problem. 

 

The deck is truly dry. The only holes in the block are for the studs. 

 

I can see the grub screw you speak of and it is still in place. 

[nicklouse]

You know what to do.

[minisilverbullet]

 

As you see only the 8 stud holes. even if the hole to the far right corner looks like a hole it is infact blocked

[minisilverbullet]

You know what to do.

 You mean phone SC right! I never asked for the kit to be dry decked. 

[nicklouse]

I though that was standard as nothing aligns.

But they should point out how the oil feed works.