44 replies to this topic

[Swift_General]

Am currently restoring my mini with genuine body panels and in the main have been very happy with the quality. However now comes the time to replace the rotten rear subframe and there is a big difference in price between the genuine and non genuine subframe, especially as minispares have the non genuine on sale at present. Anyone used the non genuine one from minispares? Did everything line up? What was the build quality like?

[cal844]

I'd buy a used genuine frame over a new non genuine any day! My mate has bought two and they didn't fit

[Daz1968]

Both my minis have non genuine subframes on, but they are 20+ years old so not sure how good new repro ones are but mine fitted perfect,

[sonikk4]

Personally i would bite the bullet and buy Heritage. As mentioned the pattern ones can be very hit or miss. The last pattern one i fitted was in 1984

[Swift_General]

Okay thanks. It does sound like it's a bit of a lottery so I think I may as well keep the heritage theme going. I take it the heritage ones come coated with the 'e coat' like the panels?

Edited by Swift_General, 27 January 2016 - 08:09 PM.

[Tupers]

I've probably fitted 10 pattern rear frames from Mini Spares in the last 6 years and not had a problem with any of them.

 

I find with any rear subframe leaving the trunnioins slightly loose while fitting and nipping them up after  makes the whole process much easier.

[1984mini25]

I've owned mine fore getting on 11 years now, its not a trailer queen or one that's parked up in a nice warm garage for use only on sunny days, so gets used all year round in all weathers. In that time its had 2 replacement non-genuine rear subframes. The first of witch was fitted by the last owner just before they sold it (bought the whole car for less than what the garage charged just to replace the rear frame) and it lasted 7 years with nothing more than metal paint for protection. In 2012 I replaced it with another non-genuine frame bought from minispeed at mitp for £180. No fitting issues whatsoever, I had the frames swapped over on the drive and the car drivable within 8 hours. And this one I've pumped full of waxoil, as the last one rotted from the inside out.

Edited by 1984mini25, 27 January 2016 - 09:13 PM.

[sledgehammer]

I've never had a problem with non genuine ones

 

as above waxoil is good for any subframe 

 

it is sad that they are getting so expensive now a days

[Swift_General]

Now I am torn! Either way I was going to give it a couple of coats of epoxy mastic and spray dynax in the cavities so corrosion shouldn't be too much of a problem as it won't be a daily driver. Also I have brackets adjustable for toe and camber so I could correct any minor issues there. I may ponder a little longer!

[minisprint]

Friend of mine is a mini trader told me pattern ones have less spotwelds ! Checked it at a show sure enough he was right! Check them out yourself and deside I've fitted both with no problems

[1984mini25]

Friend of mine is a mini trader told me pattern ones have less spotwelds !

 

Nothing that a bit of extra welding doesn't fix.

 

 

Also using minispares as an example.

 

Non-genuine rear subframe £170, Genuine rear subframe £420, or to put it another way two and a half times the price of a non-genuine subframe. Now if the last non-gen one of mine lasted 7 years does that mean a genuine one would last two and a half times as long?

[minisprint]

True but some peoples welding is shocking. Like I said I've used both with no problems

[minisprint]

Will get a pic when I've got spare time it's quite shocking the amount of different spot welds

[minisprint]

I've got an non genuine one that's 20 years old! My 1963 van has the original one!

[tiger99]

Many of the non-genuine subframes are dangerous because they have less than the original carefully calculated number of spot welds, and will fail under instantaneous peak load, or fatigue after an indeterminate number of load peaks. They really need to be seam welded for safety, at the very least along the lap where the top and bottom of the side members join the front crossmember, between the middle web and the crossmember vertical face, and between the top and bottom of the side members and the middle web around the area of the suspension cone seating. Also, around the outer radius arm mounting area.

 

Due to the 5:1 lever ratio, the peak load on the suspension cone, and therefore the tension in the subframe side member, is over 3 tonnes. That has to be carried from the cone mount to the lever fulcrum, which is the radius arm pivot locations.The spot welds themselves may carry the load, but the metal around them will tear if they are not sufficient in number.

 

The welding is relatively easy on a bare, new frame. I would prefer TIG for the sake of appearance, but MIG (not gassless, which is not MIG anyway) is just as good.