36 replies to this topic

[WimpyMiniMan]

Don't put mains pressure water through the heater matrix! It will burst it especially if it's getting on a bit.

Noted :)

[Badboytunes]

I'd say head gasket, quite easy to change too.

[KernowCooper]

Do a compression test which as pointed out by Moke Spider may not show a loss of compression, then I'd do a coolant sniff test, have you tried reverse flushing the system ? just regulate the flow and you'll be ok

Edited by KernowCooper, 24 January 2016 - 09:13 PM.

[WimpyMiniMan]

How would I go about reverse flushing the system and doing a coolant sniff test? sorry bit of a newbie as stated earlier. I will order a compression test kit and carry out the test later this week, although I think I will get a new water pump anyway and flush the heater matrix as it probably needs doing - preventive maintenance. Thanks for all the advice so far!

 

Kind Regards

George

Edited by WimpyMiniMan, 24 January 2016 - 10:01 PM.

[WimpyMiniMan]

UPDATE: I decided it was unlikely to be the water pump as that was replaced in 2014 by the previous owner, and when the thermostat opened, the radiator was drained of fluid. I bought a compression kit and carried out the test and got the following:

 

               C1          C2          C3          C4

Dry         160        135         120        130

Wet        190        135         130         155

 

I then, suspecting a leak in cylinder two, ran the engine with the rad cap off, and sure enough, once the thermostat opened, white smoke started to pour out of the radiator filling hole. I suspect the engine head will need to be taken to an engineering firm to see if they can fix the leak, and possibly convert to unleaded (not sure if my 1989 city e 1000 is unleaded). It will also need to be skimmed and I will need to get new o rings.

 

Does any one have any other suggestions? 

 

Kind Regards

George

[Spider]

The head itself will unlikely be cracked causing the leak, just the gasket between the head and the engine block may have failed.

 

None the less, it would be wise to have the head overhauled while it's off.

 

If I may suggest, while you do have some enthusiasm for spinning spanners, while changing a head gasket is not a difficult job, given your limited experience, can I respectfully suggest that you find someone who can work with you - hands on - to do this or consider paying to have it done?

 

While it is fairly straight forward, it can also turn in to a bar-stool of a task that can end in some real disappointment and a long face too. Having someone help you will build your like for the car and give you a broader understanding.

[WimpyMiniMan]

The head itself will unlikely be cracked causing the leak, just the gasket between the head and the engine block may have failed.
 
None the less, it would be wise to have the head overhauled while it's off.
 
If I may suggest, while you do have some enthusiasm for spinning spanners, while changing a head gasket is not a difficult job, given your limited experience, can I respectfully suggest that you find someone who can work with you - hands on - to do this or consider paying to have it done?
 
While it is fairly straight forward, it can also turn in to a bar-stool of a task that can end in some real disappointment and a long face too. Having someone help you will build your like for the car and give you a broader understanding.

Will I need to have the engine block skimmed as well as the head, and also how much do you would reckon it would cost to have the head refurbed? If it is cracked what sort of money could it cost to have that rectified? I have seen an entire engine on gumtree for £250 thats just come out after a vtec conversion job. The owner has assured me the engine is in good condition and has done around 84,000 miles and would mean I could use my car whilst repairing the other engine. It looks fine usual surface rust and I could potentially refit my current engine afterwards or even sell it. Being a 1989 city e I don't imagine original parts will influence its value much.

[Mini Manannán]

UPDATE: I decided it was unlikely to be the water pump as that was replaced in 2014 by the previous owner, and when the thermostat opened, the radiator was drained of fluid. I bought a compression kit and carried out the test and got the following:

 

               C1          C2          C3          C4

Dry         160        135         120        130

Wet        190        135         130         155

 

I then, suspecting a leak in cylinder two, ran the engine with the rad cap off, and sure enough, once the thermostat opened, white smoke started to pour out of the radiator filling hole. I suspect the engine head will need to be taken to an engineering firm to see if they can fix the leak, and possibly convert to unleaded (not sure if my 1989 city e 1000 is unleaded). It will also need to be skimmed and I will need to get new o rings.

 

Does any one have any other suggestions? 

 

Kind Regards

George

 

Never assume parts will be good or have a long life expectancy!  There are a lot of shysters out there who sell a gash part.

[WimpyMiniMan]

 

UPDATE: I decided it was unlikely to be the water pump as that was replaced in 2014 by the previous owner, and when the thermostat opened, the radiator was drained of fluid. I bought a compression kit and carried out the test and got the following:
 
               C1          C2          C3          C4
Dry         160        135         120        130
Wet        190        135         130         155
 
I then, suspecting a leak in cylinder two, ran the engine with the rad cap off, and sure enough, once the thermostat opened, white smoke started to pour out of the radiator filling hole. I suspect the engine head will need to be taken to an engineering firm to see if they can fix the leak, and possibly convert to unleaded (not sure if my 1989 city e 1000 is unleaded). It will also need to be skimmed and I will need to get new o rings.
 
Does any one have any other suggestions? 
 
Kind Regards
George

 
Never assume parts will be good or have a long life expectancy!  There are a lot of shysters out there who sell a gash part.

even though the radiator was drained when the thermostat opened do you think the pump may not work? Also I'm sure there was combustion gas in the coolant system which would explain the lack of increase of pressure during the wet test. So people reckon a new gasket and skimming of the head and block could solve the problem?

Edited by WimpyMiniMan, 27 January 2016 - 07:53 PM.

[gazza82]

You might not need the block skimmed, they are pretty tough. You might just need a gasket but you won't know until it's removed.

[WimpyMiniMan]

ordered new gasket set as that will be replaced either way - will take head off on the weekend and have a look. Do you think just a skimmed head and new gasket will solve the compression issue on all four cylinders?

Edited by WimpyMiniMan, 27 January 2016 - 08:45 PM.

[ToM 2012]

I also having this problem on a project I'm doing now engine was steaming from manifold area on tick over. Not sure if it's oil coming out my rocker cover gasket and leeking on the manifold as it's got lots of oil runs on the back of rocker gasket. I'm hoping it's nothing serious as it will blow the project budget. Let. Us know what you find as I might have to do the same cheers Tom

[WimpyMiniMan]

sure thing will post an update after ki've had a look.

[KernowCooper]

There are more factors which could be affecting compression reading other than a head gasket, it could be down to poor valve seating, worn bores and rings.

[WimpyMiniMan]

But in terms of combustion gases getting into the coolant, a good seal between the head and block assuming there are no cracks or physical cracks in the block itself should stop gases getting into the coolant and therefore stop the engine overheating. Even if compression is down the car will work?

Edited by WimpyMiniMan, 28 January 2016 - 06:57 PM.