6 replies to this topic

[kitch]

I have just finished building up the block and clutch on my new engine. Its a 1330 with high compression AE pistons, balanced crank assembley, centre main strap, SW5 cam, lightened verto flywheel and new AP clutch. I have a Bill Richards Racing Stage 3 head to fit.

I have 2 gearboxes, a 22G1832 and a DAM5626. I want to now which 1 to rebuild ?

I think the DAM5626 is a better casing as it is thicker and uses a stronger mainshaft and 18mm layshaft?

It looks like they are both pre A-plus gearsets but can anyone confirm this, and if this is correct I can convert to the close ratio 's' ratios by changing the laygear and 1st motion shaft right?

What final drives would these boxes have been fitted which as standard? (i'm gonna check when I take them apart because they may have been changed)

I'm only just getting my head round this stuff so any suggestions from you guys would be appreciated.

I want it 2 accelerate well from the lights and be able to do 80 on the motorway and I cant afford straight cut gears :'(

Cheers

P.S I can't see the pics on guessworks tech page in the F.A.Qs anyone know why?

[Guess-Works.com]

I think that's because the pic's part of the forum is fubar !!

but anyway, the advantage of using the A+ (DAM) case is that it'll have the large idler bearing, you can use GT gears in the A+ case but you'll need to do a little modification, as you'll need to use a A third motion shaft with small nose bearing to fit the GT 1st motion..

You could however use a new GT gear set available from Minispares which use the later A+ third motion shaft

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=35934

The early A+ gearboxes still use A series profiled gears so don't be concerned about that !

Final drive as std would be a 3.44, which means you'll be doing 70@4krpm, if you want a little more comfortable motorway miles, then try a 3.1

[kitch]

I just started taking the gearbox apart and i'm trying to lock the gearbox to remove the nut on the input/drive gear and have tried locking it with wood like the haynes manual says but it wont lock it!

Any ideas anyone

Cheers

[Guess-Works.com]

have you removed the diff housing, the spring, ball and collar from the selector, and then rotated the selector mechanism out if the fork selectors? until you've done that, you'll nt be able to engage two gears.

[kitch]

Yeah cheers

Ibought the ultimate mini builder dvd at mitp today and after watching the gearbox bit it was simple except i havent got the right socket for the speedo cable end so i cant go any further till ive got 1

any ideas were the cheapest place 2 get 1 wuld be?

[Guess-Works.com]

If that's the main bolt holding the bearing and pinion on it's 1.1/2" and would advise buying a Deep Ball joint Socket as it has many uses (not only for doing the ball joints, gearbox, and flywheel bolt on diaphram clutches)

Available from minispares etc etc and I bought mine from halfords, they were also freely available at mitp ( opportunity missed there ! )

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=37682

http://www.minisport...af-product.html (chuff the price on that !! )

http://www.sptools.c...tml?product=789

[kitch]

cheers guessworks

just ordered it today so i started sorting the diff instead, what with your tutorial and bill sollis dvd its proving easy and my tool box is rapidly expanding, thanks for your help!