10 replies to this topic

[KevinS]

Hi All, I need to replace the front to rear brake pipe on a 1990 998cc Mini fitted with a servo. The correct part from MS appears to be HMV102. The question is, will I need to drop the rear subframe at the heel board end in order to remove the old and fit the new brake pipe? I was planning to remove the old pipe in one piece and shape the new from the old when out of the car and then refit the new. I understand from previous posts that I will need to ensure a u bend is made at rear subframe end to ensure subframe movement does not damage the pipe. However is it possible to route the new shaped brake pipe through the minimal subframe to heel board space? Any advise appreciated.

Best regards

Kevin

[nicklouse]

Consider this you will be disconnecting the the pipe if you are removing the subframe anyway. Why does it need to fit between the body and the frame?

[KevinS]

Hi Nicklouse, I'm not planning to remove the subframe, I just need to re-new the brake pipe. I'm fitting between body and the subframe because that's the route chosen by Rover. Surely this route offers best protection?

[tiger99]

You can run the pipe below the subframe, remembering to allow plenty of length in the U bend for flexibility, but it will be a right pain if you need to remove the subframe. But then the pipe is almost certain to be too long, and you will either have to coil it, as I described recently, or get hold of a flaring tool and shorten it. You will have to ensure that there is a fixing for the pipe to floor as close as possible to the heelboard.

 

I strongly recommend that you fit it the proper way, which will need at least the front of the subframe to be lowered, as that way the pipe will be better protected, and in the event of a probably unrelated accident your insurance company will not be able to wriggle out of paying because of an unauthorised modification. Also, if you want to sell the car, things like a wrongly routed pipe suggest that the overall standard of maintenance may be low. Doing a proper professional job always has advantages.

[Shifty]

I've done this loads of times and not had to drop the frame.  Bit of a fiddle but entirely possible, start at the back end and then go forward.  Doing it the other way may land you with an advise come MOT time

[KevinS]

Many thanks for all of the advise.

Successful New Year to all.

[ad444t]

Like shifty says it is possible I've done it on mine very fidley and I found havin a second person helps wen startin to loose ya rag with it lol!

[tiger99]

I "can" thread then through from the back but was very reluctant to advise anyone else to do it. Nor would I do it again myself, unless desperate. It is just too fiddly.

The pipe must be confirmed to be well clear of the subframe, or it will chafe.

If you are doing it that way, it may help to thread a bare length of Kunifer, ends capped to keep dirt out, and fit tube nuts and flare ends in situ.

[johnR]

I fitted my new pipe over the subframe rather than go to all the trouble to remove the frame. It only exposes a further 2 - 3" of pipe this way and means 2 less bends.
JohnR

[tiger99]

That is what I called BELOW the subframe! Just in case anyone is confused.

[Shifty]

That is what I called BELOW the subframe! Just in case anyone is confused.

Yup and some mot testers will advise on this as well.