18 replies to this topic

[lewBlew]

I've tried the gentle approach, WD40, elastic bands..... then a flat-head screw driver and a hammer, a screw extractor set, drilling.... It won't budge and there's a large hole in the middle of it! Any other home remedies before I take it to a garage to be blown up?

 

 

[monkey]

If you have already drilled it and that didn't work, get a bigger drill?

Edit:

Try making a flat head notch in the screw head with a dremel? Also someone told me to drill a small hole before then using screw extractor?

Edited by monkey, 07 December 2015 - 09:25 PM.

[Jordie]

Drill the head off. Remove drum. Mole grips on the remaining part stuck out.

[lewBlew]

If you have already drilled it and that didn't work, get a bigger drill?

Edit:

Try making a flat head notch in the screw head with a dremel? Also someone told me to drill a small hole before then using screw extractor?

 

I'll give it a go but there isn't much of the head left... it's almost completely hollow haha! Nice tip about drilling a hole first, will try.

 

 

Drill the head off. Remove drum. Mole grips on the remaining part stuck out.

 

Thee screw sits flush with the drum. It's unfortunately not one which sticks out 

[sonikk4]

Its countersunk so will fit flush.What size drill bit have been using?? I have feeling the screw will either be 1/4" or 5/16th.

[lewBlew]

Ok thanks.. so shall I keep drilling??

[cal844]

Some heat always works for me along with wd40

[nicklouse]

Why do people bother with WD40 it is poor at everything it does other than killing MTB disc brake pads.

Plus Gas is what you should be using.

Front or rear drum brake? If front upper or lower adjuster?

[Steve220]

I'd only use WD40 as a drill lube.

Use an 8mm drill bit, it will take the head off, remove the drum then there will be a bit of the bolt that sticks proud on the flange. A set of pliers or mole grips will get it out.

[nicklouse]

Just read this correctly.

Yep drill head of and carry on. The screw is not really needed.

[dklawson]

The screw size is 1/4 UNF.  

 

In the future, use an impact driver to remove the flat head screws.  An impact driver bit does not hop out/back of the Phillips head.

 

 

[tiger99]

When you get the drum off, you may find that your drill has ruined the threads. As already said, you don't really need the screw, the drum, in use, is clamped securely by the wheel. But if you do want it, to ensure that the drum never moves and perhaps allows dirt to get between itself and the hub during wheel changes, which would be bad, just fit the drum in a different position, spot mark the hub with an exact size drill, probably 1/4", drill right through with a tapping size drill, 3/16" is about right, tap 1/4" UNF, and fit a new screw.

[dklawson]

... spot mark the hub with an exact size drill, probably 1/4", drill right through with a tapping size drill, 3/16" is about right, tap 1/4" UNF, and fit a new screw.

 

Where have you been Tiger?  It's good to see you back.

 

A 3/16" pilot drill will make it nearly impossible to tap the hole as it is very small.

 

For future reference, with 60 degree threads (common UNF/UNC and Metric) the tap drill can be determined by subtracting the thread pitch from the nominal fastener diameter.  For example, the common 6mm fastener is M6x1.  Subtract 1mm from 6mm = 5... a 5mm tap drill.  Likewise, for 1/4 UNF (1/4" by 28 threads per inch) the tap drill is 1/4 - 1/28 = 0.214"  With that determined, you will need to look at what drill bit sizes you have available (fractional or number series) and choose whichever is closest.  Larger pilot holes are easier to tap but provide less thread engagement.  Smaller pilot holes can produce more thread engagement but too small can result in holes that cannot be tapped or worse yet... so much drag during tapping that you may break the tap.

[Cooperman]

Welcome back Tiger.

 

As you have said, just drill the screws out, make sure the hub face is smooth and don't bother with the screws when putting it back together.

I never use the screws in any of my rally Minis and not having them improves the ability to service the brakes quickly with no risk of them seizing up.

Those screws really do nothing at all and the torqueing up of the wheel nuts secures the drums.

The only possible issue might be that if an alloy wheel were left on for a long time it could corrode onto the drum and the wheel and drum could then come off together. A film of copper-slip between wheel & drum should preclude this.

[lewBlew]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I drilled it until half of the screw came out, so I could remove the drum and use mole grips on the rest. Worked a treat and nothing except the screw damaged. Think it's been on there way before I had even thought about getting a Mini! (This wasn't the adjuster it was the screw which holds the drum on).