13 replies to this topic

[Black.Ghost]

Right some of you may remember that a few months back I posted about a scraping noise when turning right. I still have it. It kind of pulses, almost with each revolution of the wheel. Sometimes it is much more pronounced than others but can't from memory identify the conditions that makes it worse.

One suggestion was wheel bearings. I have tested the play by holding at 6 and 12 - nothing. Not conclusive though. Wheels off, brakes off, spin the wheels. No scraping noises or anything immediately wrong. I have both front wheels off to compare each side.

When I hold the wheel solid, I can't move the driveshafts by themselves. When I let go of the wheel and twist the shafts there is around 1-2 mm of movement before it 'clunks'; this again is the same both sides and pretty much what I would expect. When I say clunk ita just the ball bits picking up their holder, if that makes sense. Not sure of the technical terms.

I'm reluctant to change the bearings at the moment only to find out its not that as I don't want to have to take it all apart again afterwards and get another hub nut etc.

There were no advisories on last MOT, which while not conclusive shows the levels of play are all OK.

It doesn't tend to happen so much at slower speeds on sharp turns, I.e roundabouts but more at say 60 on a longer right turn. At faster speeds (70) I couldn't hear it earlier but the wind noise is loud so it's harder to identify. This is just from today. Previously, I could have sworn it was around 40-50mph plus.

It's on 90k, and apart from shock/spring (passenger side, replaced as soon as I got it because it was snapped), I believe all original suspension components. Its been like this for a while (I I should have got it done sooner but can't have the car off the road so not had a good opportunity). I'm off work this week so a bit of time to play with, although need it sorted for Friday.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

[Black.Ghost]

Although having said all that, when I turn the new ones, by hand, they are near silent whereas the others aren't so it may be that afterall.

[cal844]

Could be strut top mount or anti roll bar bushes

[Black.Ghost]

Ok.I need some advice pretty quick....I've got everything fitted back up and have two problems. Firstly, the tie rod end nut won't tighten - it's just turning the bolt (attached to the ball joint) does this mean the tie rod is knackered and I need a new one?

Secondly I have had the new bearings pressed in, put everything back together and the lower caliper bolt hole thread is screwed. So, I either need to retap it (never done it, but it looks straightforward (but I don't have the tool!). This also means I'll need a slightly bigger bolt to go in it, not sure I'll find one the right type? The other option is a complete number but I'll be so angry with that. I've just had the bearing pressed so they will both be ******* and I'll need to spend more money. And won't be able to use the car tomorrow.

[Black.Ghost]

Plus I'll need to remove the wishbone ball joint and if the ball joint gets damaged I'll have to buy yet another one of them. This is utter rubbish.

[xrocketengineer]

I would use a vise-grip or some other set of large pliers to clamp the tie rod end onto the steering arm so it will go deeper into the taper while spinning the nut. On the caliper bolt, I would get the replacement OE bolt and a matching thread repair kit, something like this:

 

http://www.amazon.co...coil repair kit

[Black.Ghost]

Good idea on the tie rod, makes sense. As for the caliper, I really need the car tonight at 8 or at least tomorrow morning/midday so don't want to wait for Amazon. Hopefully B and Q havr something in stock.

[Black.Ghost]

So despite looking ok, three of the four threads have gone so I am going to do all of them. They have a shinier metal insert - I assume it is a case of remove the old thread and insert a new one of the same size? How can I guarantee to get the old one out without causing anymore damage. I'll have to finish it in the morning as I have no daylight left now. Thanks for the help.

[xrocketengineer]

Get a repair kit that includes the drill bit, that will "remove" the old thread. That way everything is matched and there are no worries about the hole size vs. the tap size and so on. You will like the finished product. It might be better than new.

Edited by xrocketengineer, 03 December 2015 - 06:08 PM.

[Black.Ghost]

So I went to Band Q and they only have the tap and die sets, with no inserts. Halfords only sell it online. Oh well, if I order tonight I'll have it Saturday to get the car fixed but that's the weekend plans cancelled!

Thanks Rocket Engineer for the help. For what it is worth, I did think I would have to retap the holes. Having never done it, I though it was going to be more difficult, but I have watched a couple of videos on YouTube and it looks easy enough and most importantly, I can do it with the hubs still in pace.

All I wanted to do was stop the scraping noise. No wonder garage labour rates are high!

Edited by Black.Ghost, 03 December 2015 - 10:48 PM.

[xrocketengineer]

When I replaced radius arms on the Mini, I broke one bolt on the subframe. So I ended up using a repair kit so the threads and bolts would still be the original size.

 

The kit I used. I already had the matching drill bit:

 

Drilled and tapped:

 

Helicoil on the tool:

 

Helicoil installed:

 

Bolt fit check:

 

[xrocketengineer]

Oops! Double entry.

Edited by xrocketengineer, 03 December 2015 - 11:54 PM.

[Black.Ghost]

All done! Why Inhave never helicoiles anything before! So easy to do and like you said, a great result. The tap drill bit broke after the first one but still managed to get it all done. There is a lot of pedal travel before the brakes seem to engage so I need to be a bit weary of that and have a look at it. Might just need a little more wearing in as I only replaced them around 3 weeks ago.

After doing the front though, the scraping appears thus far to have been banished, and the front is nice and soft over speed bumps now! The rear bangs a bit so I think the next thing to do will be take a look at that and I might put new rear brakes on at the same time as the fronts have just been done. She is wearing her winter boots as well now.

I noticed as well you can get reasonable hydraulic presses for around £130 for 20T and around 80 or so for 12T. That might be my next investment.

Quite pleased with the results over the last couple of days, despite the time taken!

[xrocketengineer]

Great to know that you got it all fixed.