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Hesitation When Engine Is Cold


Best Answer AgentHubcap , 05 March 2017 - 07:33 PM

I know this is an old thread, but I *finally* figured out my issue.  When I bought the car, the thermostat was in the wrong spot.  It was in between the head and sandwich plate, not between the sandwich plate and the cap.  This lead to coolant only flowing to the heater and manifold when it was open.

 

I moved it to above the sandwich plate and my cold running issues completely gone.

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#46 AgentHubcap

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 07:32 AM

I tried testing the PTC tonight.  I checked for voltage at the PTC and found none.  I worked back and found the nearest connection and also found no voltage.  This is after switching the car to on, but not starting it.  Do I need to have the car running to check it?



#47 Alpenflitzer

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 11:35 AM

Before you take off the PTC I would put the baby in warm place (18-20 C) overnight  and then start the car and see how he performs.

I have heard of many Mini owners driving around with a defect PTC.


Edited by Alpenflitzer, 02 January 2016 - 11:35 AM.


#48 AgentHubcap

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 05:41 AM

I was able to confirm voltage to the PTC tonight.  Turns out the car has to be running, not just on.  I also disconnected the PTC and drove it around until the car warmed up and found it to be exactly the same as it was before.  Once the car is warm it seems to have a lot more power, though.
 
One other thing I did was to replace the voltage regulator in the cluster with a linear voltage regulator (1A 10V).  Now I'm seeing the temps above half way and the fuel gauge is reading higher than it was (it wouldn't quite reach F before)

Also, I don't think I'll be able to store the car above 18C overnight. My garage is not heated and it is below freezing in Oregon right now.

Edited by AgentHubcap, 03 January 2016 - 05:42 AM.


#49 Alpenflitzer

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 12:39 PM

The temp. gauge is fed by the ECU. Are you sure that all cables at the ECU plug are ok? What about the main relay box ?

 

Strong hot hairblower in front of the air inlet of the airfilter and then start engine while hot air is blown into the filter. How does the engine performs?

 

Here two links which may help:

 

http://www.rjwoerhei...shop-manual.pdf

 

http://www.minimania...r_Japanese_Mini


Edited by Alpenflitzer, 03 January 2016 - 03:04 PM.


#50 FlyingScot

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 06:33 PM

I was able to confirm voltage to the PTC tonight.  Turns out the car has to be running, not just on.  I also disconnected the PTC and drove it around until the car warmed up and found it to be exactly the same as it was before.  Once the car is warm it seems to have a lot more power, though


Actually I should have been more specific with my original quote....if the engine temp is below 75degrees and the ignition is switched on you should get a voltage at the PTC. It stays on only for a short time (from memory 10 secs). If you turn to crank the motor it is switched off and comes on again when running up to the aforementioned engine temp (measured by the CTS)

FS

#51 FlyingScot

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 09:33 PM

What gauges are you running?
As Bill has noted above the temperature gauge in an SPi is fed with a PWM voltage supplied by the MEMS ECU....

FS

#52 AgentHubcap

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 07:07 AM

I've got the stock Nippon gauges. This is what I did for the voltage stavilizer: http://www.theminifo...howtopic=146533

#53 AgentHubcap

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Posted 04 January 2016 - 10:36 PM

Any chance the CPS could cause my issues?



#54 Blatherskite

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 06:32 PM

Before you take off the PTC I would put the baby in warm place (18-20 C) overnight  and then start the car and see how he performs.
I have heard of many Mini owners driving around with a defect PTC.


We do. Norway, winter at -20C, no problems.

#55 AgentHubcap

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 05:05 PM

I tried a hair dryer pointed under the airbox this morning.  I left it for ~5 minutes before starting the car.  There was a noticeable difference.  Much better acceleration and only slight hesitation.



#56 FlyingScot

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 05:31 PM

Standard airbox?
Thumps forehead with hand....... Is the green ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) connected? It's underneath the airbox.
What about the thermo flap? Is it connected and working?

FS

#57 AgentHubcap

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 06:43 PM

Standard airbox?
Thumps forehead with hand....... Is the green ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) connected? It's underneath the airbox.
What about the thermo flap? Is it connected and working?

FS

Standard airbox.  Yes, the green connector is plugged in (and brand new).  The thermo flap is the connected, and that line is brand new.  Any idea how to test it?  

 

Just to clarify, the hair dryer was pointed under the airbox on the right hand side (looking at the engine), not into the end of the intake snorkel.



#58 Alpenflitzer

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Posted 08 January 2016 - 12:54 PM

Follow the acceleration cable towards throttle. Did you ever put a little oil on the moveable parts? And blow the hot air - not too hot  - directly in the opening of the air inlet.



#59 AgentHubcap

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Posted 08 January 2016 - 04:17 PM

The throttle cable goes from the firewall directly to the linkage on the throttle body.  I had tried to get a hair dryer at the inlet, but there's too much stuff in the way (my car has AC).  Everything moves freely as it should.

 

Honestly, though, the problem is pretty minor after fixing everything I've done.  Warm up is down to 2 mins or so.  I'll keep poking at it, but I doubt I'll buy anything new to fix it.



#60 spiguy

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 11:15 PM

My Spi drives a bit like a dog for a few minutes from cold, after that it's absolutely fine. It's still an old car after all. Wouldn't worry about it!






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