
Halogen Headlight Conversion
#1
Posted 29 November 2015 - 06:15 PM
#2
Posted 29 November 2015 - 06:25 PM
When I upgraded my 93 Sprite from Sealed Beams to Halogen I did not upgrade the wiring. However I did check all the wires and connections and cleaned up the bullet connections that are found near the bonnet catch behind the grill.
I'll just add that after 7 years and 25,000 miles I have had no problems with faulty switches, blowing fuses or melting wires.
Also note that the Mini Cooper from 1990 onwards had halogen lamps as standard without the need for any extra relays or heavier wiring.
Edited by surfblue63, 29 November 2015 - 11:09 PM.
#3
Posted 29 November 2015 - 06:40 PM
Yep, I bought a pre made loom from Wired By Wilson, It has relays and slightly thicker wiring. It takes the strain away from your headlight switch.
#4
Posted 29 November 2015 - 06:53 PM
#5
Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:38 PM
#6
Posted 29 November 2015 - 09:39 PM
#7
Posted 29 November 2015 - 10:01 PM
#8
Posted 29 November 2015 - 10:03 PM
#9
Posted 29 November 2015 - 11:17 PM
Why do you need to upgrade, the Mini Cooper had halogen headlamps as standard from 1990 onwards yet the wiring and switch were the same as a the cars fitted with sealed beams. Don't waste your money on kits that sales people say you need when you do not need them.
Edited by surfblue63, 29 November 2015 - 11:18 PM.
#10
Posted 30 November 2015 - 07:39 AM
FS
#11
Posted 30 November 2015 - 08:56 AM
I think it might be wise to consider the rating (Wattage) of the lamps that are intended to be fitted. I think it fair to say with standard looms and switches, they'd all be safe with lamps up to 60 Watts a side. I've never been able to find any published data on the stalk type dip switches, but considering what the cars were fitted with I think the 60 Watts a side is safe.
One up side of fitting relays - if fitted close the the headlamps with short wires - is brighter head lamps from having less volts drop in the wires.
I've nearly always run relays in the non original cars, but I also run 100 / 130 or 110 / 150 Watt (a side) Head Lamps. I know that the stalk switches don't take too well to them.
#12
Posted 30 November 2015 - 11:05 AM
A relayed system will take the load off the switches and original wiring.
You're also likely to see an improvement in brightness due to reduced resistance.
#13
Posted 30 November 2015 - 11:24 AM
Appreciate all the valid points made, but our kits are not a sales pitch of any sort and we don't believe in a hard sell.
Our products will allow you to run up to 100w bulbs - but we don't advertise this fact due to 60w being the legal maximum on the road. But the wiring is more than capable. Our kits are also safe to use with HID conversions where they demand a steady supply of power to avoid flickering.
Also the reason we developed our kits is to improve safety of the cars because they are "non-total failure" - like a modern car.
What that means is that each headlight is fused independently on both dipped and main beam, so if one bulb blows and overloads the system blowing the fuse you do not lose all headlights. Incidentally in a standard set up there is NO fusing on the headlights (save for later cars with "reliable" in-line fuses behind the dash.)
We have also had feedback saying that due to far improved power delivery even standard 60w bulbs are noticeable brighter.
Its your car, your choice. And we're always happy to discuss your needs without a sales pitch.
David
WiredbyWilson
Edited by WiredbyWilson, 30 November 2015 - 11:25 AM.
#14
Posted 30 November 2015 - 01:16 PM
Edited by Swift_General, 30 November 2015 - 01:17 PM.
#15
Posted 30 November 2015 - 01:29 PM
I expect putting more powerful bulbs in can invalidate their approval markings. Aren't there also rules on beam levelling for fancy modern lights?
I reckon your lights can be too bright. Let alone dazzling other drivers, if your eyes have adapted to mega bright search lights you'll have difficulty seeing anything outside their beams.
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