Beam Axles...
#31
Posted 27 October 2008 - 07:35 PM
got a rear beam will be getting rear coilovers asap
do i need front coilovers
if i can them should i use them (i will be getting them weather i use them or not is bein decided on this answer)
and whats coilovers allround like on the road
thanks
jack
#32
Posted 27 October 2008 - 07:58 PM
#33
Posted 28 October 2008 - 08:52 PM
you dont need front coilovers but most sets come with front and rear
would it be an improvement fitting them or would it not be noticable and not worth the hassle???
#34
Posted 28 October 2008 - 09:28 PM
In my opinion, the rear of a Mini is too light, even with standard subframe.
And: what mods have to be done to the bodywork to accept the higher loads going in it from the coilovers?
Apart from that it's a very interesting topic!
Cheers,
Jan
#35
Posted 31 October 2008 - 08:33 PM
#36
Posted 01 March 2009 - 02:40 AM
#37
Posted 16 March 2009 - 06:12 PM
Edited by Mini-lee, 16 March 2009 - 06:13 PM.
#38
Posted 17 March 2009 - 09:58 AM
If you remove the subframe and replace it with a beam axle, the standard rubber cone/trumpet setup is no longer there, so there is nothing to support the weight of the car.
By replacing the usually non load bearing shock absorbers with a coil over shock/spring unit, the whole weight of the rear of the car is then taken on the rear arch shock mounts. This brings about the problem if loading the shell were it was was never designed to be loaded, and many people have had the shell crack in the arches due to the added forces.
Another problem with the Mini shell is that the standard arch turrets are not large enough to house a coilover unit properly, so the mini specific coilover kits made have an offset pin on top of the coilover to more the spring and shock body out from the turret to avoid clearence issues. Some people question how strong an offset pin coilover can be....
My rear beam axle is made from a cut down subframe, it's had all but the front heel board section removed, and the inner mounts have been reinforced, as well as poly bushes on the end, and extra mounts through the seat base to stop it rotating on the standard circular mounts. My arches have also been turretted to take a coilover unit with a centrally mounted top pin, and the top of the turretts are slightly higher in the shell than standard Mini turrets to allow the car to run at a lower ride height.
I'm using minispares camber/track plates on it, and so far it's working perfectly.
This was just a trial fit with old radius arms/camber plates to see if it would work:
Here you can see how much larger the new turretts are compared to standard:
#39
Posted 25 September 2009 - 10:20 AM
#40
Posted 25 September 2009 - 12:24 PM
I think with more testing and different spring rates perhaps it could be made near perfect.
#41
Posted 25 September 2009 - 01:19 PM
I mean money wise your looking at about £450 for your coilovers, £150-£200 for the beam frame, then you've got the extra cost of any shims and add £100 for a suspension geometry kit - Which you may aswell have if your going to the trouble of coilovers. So your looking at £700+ and thats without the cost of having the arches turreted and strengthened!
How much weight does it save?
How does it compare to a mini fitted with a coil spring conversion?
Just out of interest, what do mini miglias use? Are they on coilovers?
#42
Posted 25 September 2009 - 02:17 PM
[/quote]
Out of interest what spring rate are you currently using. doing something similar on mine and haven't got the springs yet just the coilover units to aid fabrication.
#43
Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:30 PM
I dont think theres much in it cost wise. This is what ive been considering:
Coil Springs
Pro-Tech dampers £200
Minitastic Kit - £246
KAD Neg Camber Bkts - £100
Total £546 + full set up costs
Coilovers
Pro-Tech Coilover Kit - £465
TDK Rear Beam - £140
(no need for rear brakets)
Total £605 + set up costs
Rubber Cone
Pro-Tech dampers £200
4 Red Spot Rubber Cones £200
Hi Lo Kit £88
KAD Neg Camber Bkts - £100
Total £588 + set up costs
Obviously with the coilovers im not building in any turret work. Ive asked loads of times and whilst there are stories of arches cracking there are lots of people that say they've never had an issue. My guess would be that if your reducing the rear end weight with a beam as appose to the full weight of the redundant rear subby then you better your chances.
Im just of the opinion that if im guna spend the money I want to do it once and get the best.
h
Edited by Hughes, 25 September 2009 - 09:31 PM.
#44
Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:36 PM
Pete
#45
Posted 25 September 2009 - 11:13 PM
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