18 replies to this topic

[leadly]

Right, finally had chance to stick my cooper s set up on my mini but got stuck after loosely fitting the top ball joint nut. 

 

I'm left with this:

 

 

The hub is sitting at funny angle.

 

After a sulk, packing everything away, raiding my parents kitchen for sweets and a google, i'm come to the conclusion that the drive shaft may need whacking a bit further into the pot joint. Does this sound about right?

 

It may have moved when I was getting the old drum cv joints off the drive shaft as when I started wiggling and jiggling it I got this:

 

 

Have I possibly caused any damage? Is there a seal in there that I may have dislodged? Would it be best to cut the rubber boot off to inspect and re-grease? What will I most likely be greeted with?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

- Rich

 

 

[Shifty]

Assuming that you haven't got the shafts on the wrong side then you probably haven't got the shaft on enough.  Chances are the little 'c' clip on the end of the shaft has got caught up.

[leadly]

The drive shafts haven't been removed so it won't be that. Should I take the cv off and pop it back on again or just belt it with a soft hammer and hope for the best?

Cheers

[Alex_B]

I would apply some pressure to the lower ball joint pushing in, and then using a nylon hammer tap the drive flange, that should knock it back into position provided the splines are still lined up, but if it doesn't go easily the c clip could be dislodged so pull off the diff output and relocate the c clip and then knock in driveshafts. 

[Shifty]

The drive shafts haven't been removed so it won't be that. Should I take the cv off and pop it back on again or just belt it with a soft hammer and hope for the best?

Cheers

 

That's what I meant, the cv joint, there's a pesky little 'c' washer on the end of the drive shaft.  When you put the cv back on the joint needs to slide over this clip.  Sometimes it can become dislodged and then gets caught up with the joint as you try and push it on.

 

It can also pop out of the gearbox end as well, if you've got oil peeing out then the whole pot joint could have moved and come out as well.

[leadly]

So would it be advisable to remove the pot joints and fit new seals while I'm at it?

Not got my Haynes at hand but is it a simple job? I know I'll need to drain the oil first. But after that I'm unsure.

Why do things never goto plan? Never mind though, it's something new learnt.

Edited by leadly, 14 November 2015 - 07:19 PM.

[Spider]

The Inner CV hasn't come apart so the the balls are sitting on the out edge of the Bell rather then in the slots?

[greenwheels]

The Inner CV hasn't come apart so the the balls are sitting on the out edge of the Bell rather then in the slots?

That's the most likely - just feel the pot joint boot and compare to doing the same to the other one.

[leadly]

So would that just be a case of knocking the drive shaft back towards the bell then?

To change the seal that seems to be leaking do I have to remove the bell,firk out the old seal with a screwwy, pop the new one in and refit the bell or do I have to open up the diff housing covers?

I've gotta walk the dog shortly so I'll get my Haynes from my parents for some bed time reading.

[59 Speed]

Not another person having trouble with his balls!

Seriously though, I would snip the larger cable tie at the inner cv end, take the top and bottom ball joints nuts off and slide the whole assembly out and inspect to see if everything where it should be and in enough.

I wouldn't be smacking anything in from the drive flange etc... as it might damage the diff casing or oil seals (is this where the oil came from - possibly a damaged diff oil seal?)

Do drum brakes and disks share the same driveshafts? I thought they were different.


Edit: so slow at typing 😴

Edited by Smackfiend, 14 November 2015 - 07:33 PM.

[leadly]

Do drum brakes and disks share the same driveshafts? I thought they were different.

I hope not as the conversion kits most sellers supply don't come with them.

When you say take everything out to inspect, do you mean the pot joint (bell) as well? Or leave that in and just remove the drive shaft from it? The bell will need to come out to change the seal though won't it.

I just want to drive my bloody car again!

Edited by leadly, 14 November 2015 - 07:37 PM.

[nicklouse]

Do drum brakes and disks share the same driveshafts? I thought they were different.

I hope not as the conversion kits most sellers supply don't come with them.
When you say take everything out to inspect, do you mean the pot joint (bell) as well? Or leave that in and just remove the drive shaft from it? The bell will need to come out to change the seal though won't it.
I just want to drive my bloody car again!

Drive shafts are the same for the type of inner joint.

[nicklouse]

Check the inner joint is fitted right. And get the bottom arm on so you actually know what is going on rather than guessing.

[mini danny]

Have you converted from drums ?

If not what I would do is push the shaft towards the gearbox whilst rotating the main bit of the drive shaft back and forth slightly as its may be that you have pulled the inner joint out of the "Pot" if you feel it slide back in jobs and a gooden.

If you have converted from drums. Then you would have changed the outer CV joint. If so make sure the CV joint is seated correctly as shifty said there's a "c" clip which can be a bugger at the best of time.

Dan

[leadly]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I think my plan of action will be to get the engine drained tomorrow after my overtime shift and borrow something lever like to get the pot joint out.

I'll then be able to hopefully check the fitment of everything in a warmish damp garage rather than in the wind and rain on the drive.

Must get some seals ordered asap! I'll report back with how I get on.

Cheers again.

- Rich

Edit, yes I'm converting from drums to Cooper s discs.

Edited by leadly, 14 November 2015 - 09:42 PM.