Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Testing New Wiring Loom


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 Pairaminis

Pairaminis

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 194 posts
  • Location: Hartsville, South Carolina, USA

Posted 10 November 2015 - 01:23 PM

When I asked forum members earlier if I could test the lights, switches, etc. connected to my new wiring loom without the engine in the car,  I was told I could but was advised to tape off a number of connections so they would not contact each other.  I'm now ready to conduct this test and would like to know exactly what to tape off and what the end of the new battery cable should be connected to in order to "activate" the wiring harness.

Jack



#2 rodandtom

rodandtom

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 998 posts
  • Location: Dover

Posted 10 November 2015 - 04:02 PM

I'm going to be doing that and I'm basically going to tape off everything thats bare or could touch metal.

 

Rod



#3 Guest_ratty_*

Guest_ratty_*
  • Guests

Posted 10 November 2015 - 04:45 PM

Assuming neg earth

 

The only bare wires are likely to be solenoid/starter power feeds and electric fuel pump/fuel gauge wires if fitted

 

Door switch wires for interior light are switch negative so no need to insulate

 

All other wires should have terminals with protective covers on, but you dont state the year or loom so cannot be more specific

 

Engine sensors dont matter as even a short to earth will just turn on/off a bulb or make a gauge read maximum


Edited by ratty, 10 November 2015 - 04:49 PM.


#4 Rocket.

Rocket.

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,441 posts
  • Location: UK

Posted 10 November 2015 - 05:06 PM

I've just fitted a new loom and i just done as above taped everything that had a bare connection on the end up and kept them seperate so theres no chance that it could cause a short



#5 CityEPete

CityEPete

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,920 posts
  • Location: On my soapbox....

Posted 10 November 2015 - 05:17 PM

Everyone with a mini should own a power probe, does no one read Kernow Cooper's signature!? Lol

All joking apart its the tool for this job, hook up the probe to the battery then apply positive or negative to anything you like with the safety circuit of the probe dealing with any mistakes. Brilliant tool to own long term too.

#6 rodandtom

rodandtom

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 998 posts
  • Location: Dover

Posted 10 November 2015 - 06:10 PM

Whats a decent quality power probe going to cost? what make?



#7 Spider

Spider

    Moved Into The Garage

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,840 posts
  • Location: NSW
  • Local Club: South Australian Moke Club

Posted 10 November 2015 - 06:24 PM

Be sure to have a battery isolator switch fitted, even if only temporarily while checking it all out, or don't tighten up one of the battery connections, just sit the lead over the battery post and don't close the boot lid.

 

<Edit: I usually use a Bench type Power Supply that has about 6 amps output for testing a new loom, it won't run everything, but has enough to show if it all going to work, with the limited current, it won't do any damage if somethings not right.>

 

Remember, everything runs on smoke, this thing about electrons and electricity is all lies. How do I know? 'Cause when you let the smoke out, it stops.


Edited by Moke Spider, 10 November 2015 - 06:26 PM.


#8 Pairaminis

Pairaminis

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 194 posts
  • Location: Hartsville, South Carolina, USA

Posted 10 November 2015 - 07:33 PM

Thanks all.  What do I attach the battery cable to in the engine compartment?  One of the brown starter wires?  The car is an '84 sedan.

Jack



#9 CityEPete

CityEPete

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,920 posts
  • Location: On my soapbox....

Posted 10 November 2015 - 08:04 PM

Whats a decent quality power probe going to cost? what make?


A PP1 can be had for £14.50 inc postage on ebay, I've got the PPX that was £32.50. One of those and a £10 multimeter should be on everyones wish list to santa if they don't own one.

#10 CityEPete

CityEPete

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,920 posts
  • Location: On my soapbox....

Posted 10 November 2015 - 08:12 PM

Thanks all.  What do I attach the battery cable to in the engine compartment?  One of the brown starter wires?  The car is an '84 sedan.
Jack

The browns that all get joined together on the starter solenoid post are various constant live feeds, one goes to the fusebox and subsequently feeds the lights as the brown to the light switch joins there (unfused hence the need for a power probe or quick removal of the battery!), other browns are to the ignition switch (and interior light/hazard lights via a line fuse) and alternator.

You will need to put power through the brown that goes to the ignition switch to get power onto the 3rd from top fuse (5-6) which does the wipers,radio (via another line fuse),heater. Click 1 on the key.
Click 2 will then feed the top fuse (1-2) which does indicators, brake lights,rear heated screen and reverse lights.


Putting Power on the one that goes to the fusebox connection 3 (3-4 2nd fuse from top) will activate the brake warning system, headlight flasher and horn. It will also put power to the lighting switch on the dash which then puts power to the bottom fuse (7-8) if it's in the first or second click positions, that fuse feeds the dash, side lights, number plate. In the second click position it also sends power to the dip/main beam via the stalk.

As you look at the fusebox the feed in should come to the left terminals 1 3 5 and 7. If you take the fuses out and find which brown is which first then you should eventually with all browns powered up get

1 live with key at click 2
3 live all the time
5 live with key at click 1
7 live with light switch in position 1 or 2

I hope this helps?

Edited by CityEPete, 10 November 2015 - 08:37 PM.


#11 Pairaminis

Pairaminis

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 194 posts
  • Location: Hartsville, South Carolina, USA

Posted 11 November 2015 - 12:54 PM

Man, what a terrific explanation.  I really appreciate that. Any harm in hooking all the browns together and using a power probe to activate the whole set up?

Jack


Edited by Pairaminis, 11 November 2015 - 12:58 PM.


#12 CityEPete

CityEPete

    Up Into Fourth

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,920 posts
  • Location: On my soapbox....

Posted 11 November 2015 - 01:18 PM

I'd do them one at a time first then put them all together after but if you are using a probe you can't hurt much.




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users