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What Is The Best Anti Rust Treatment?


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#1 Instant Gymnast

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 09:34 PM

I have some staining on my upper dash rail where the windscreen rubber has leaked. I will be attacking it with a paint removing abrasive wheel down to bare metal and will then need to treat it with something that converts iron oxide in to something that won't make my Min look like swiss cheese in a couple of years...!



#2 Klevdo2202

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 10:25 PM

Don't take it outside >.<



#3 Daz1968

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 10:38 PM

I have recently bought some deox c gel, seems to work ok but can't comment on durability of repair as not been done long enough. It's also important to treat both sides of any repair, then get some good epoxy or zinc based primer on and topcoat.

#4 sledgehammer

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 11:01 PM

I use Vactan - http://www.ebay.co.u...T-/121025597300

 

used on commercial vehicles , boats , bridges , & cars etc

 

works for me , & my car



#5 spiguy

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 11:01 PM

Bilthamber products. Deox to 'cure' the rust (after removal of loose stuff of course) electrox zinc primer before paint, then dynax UC clear wax on the area under the seal. Their products are superb, and the clear wax - if put on properly, is almost invisible (not to the extent you would put it on visible external panels of course!) and very durable.



#6 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 08:34 AM

Best way is to chop it out and replace with a solid piece of metal.



#7 rally1380

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 09:10 AM

I agree with Guess-Works.....in my experience it doesn't matter what you put on the rust it will eventually come back through.  Best and only way to deal with it if you want it to last is to cut out the rust and weld in fresh new steel and treat with proper primers and paint.  I know this is not what you want to hear but hey ho.



#8 spiguy

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 10:16 AM

Agree with the above  - of course it is better to cut out and replace, however if as the OP is saying, he only has surface rust due to slight water ingress, then as long as the metal is not badly thinned, there is no reason not to go down the removal / conversion / paint route. Different story of course if the rust is more serious and particularly if the metal is very thin or so pitted that even with something like Deox you still can't remove all traces of oxidation.



#9 Ethel

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 11:32 AM

Anything with Phosphoric acid. I've had Vactan on bare metal that's been outdoors for years without the rust reappearing.  Though it is on a flat sheet, not hidden in a seam. The rust comes back where it's not been treated 'because you can't get at it.



#10 David128

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 01:34 PM

as above +1



#11 1984mini25

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 02:39 PM

Agree with the above  - of course it is better to cut out and replace, however if as the OP is saying, he only has surface rust due to slight water ingress, then as long as the metal is not badly thinned, there is no reason not to go down the removal / conversion / paint route. Different story of course if the rust is more serious and particularly if the metal is very thin or so pitted that even with something like Deox you still can't remove all traces of oxidation.

 

If it's anything more than surface rust that can't be sanded off either with course sand/emery paper or with a grinder/flap wheel combo, the metal need cutting out.

 

Years ago I foolishly used some magical 'anti rust' treatment on the floor pans of my mini, witch supposedly not only removed it but 'killed it' for good, wasn't cheap either. 2 years later and I was chopping out the now even more rotten floor pans to weld in new sections. As all the anti rust treatment had done was give a nice surface to slap the paint on top off.



#12 alchall

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 03:28 PM

 

Agree with the above  - of course it is better to cut out and replace, however if as the OP is saying, he only has surface rust due to slight water ingress, then as long as the metal is not badly thinned, there is no reason not to go down the removal / conversion / paint route. Different story of course if the rust is more serious and particularly if the metal is very thin or so pitted that even with something like Deox you still can't remove all traces of oxidation.

 

If it's anything more than surface rust that can't be sanded off either with course sand/emery paper or with a grinder/flap wheel combo, the metal need cutting out.

 

Years ago I foolishly used some magical 'anti rust' treatment on the floor pans of my mini, witch supposedly not only removed it but 'killed it' for good, wasn't cheap either. 2 years later and I was chopping out the now even more rotten floor pans to weld in new sections. As all the anti rust treatment had done was give a nice surface to slap the paint on top off.

 

 

If you use Deox Gel correctly (which may require more than one application) you will eradicate rust and as long is you prepare the metal afterwards correctly you should be fine, you just need to use some patience and elbow grease.

 

However, if the rust is very bad then this will be a waste of time, effort and money as you'll end up with pitting, holes and very thin metal so best to cut out and replace, it's a matter of striking the right balance I think.



#13 Stu.

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 04:53 PM

If you're treating surface corrosion, the key to stopping it getting worse is to ensure it's completely encapsulated with your chosen paint system after treatment.

 

Corrosion needs moisture and air to allow it to develop. If these elements cannot contact the steel it cannot get worse. This is how stuff like POR 15 works.

 

For me, as long as the corrosion's not badly affected the metal and is affecting the surface only, I'd give it a good wire brushing, treat the area with phosphoric acid to remove any surface corrosion, rinse it clean with a sponge, thoroughly dry it, prep key the metal for paint, panel wipe then apply 2 coats of some good quality zinc rich primer like Bilt Hamber Electrox.

 

I'd then apply two coats of either epoxy mastic or epoxy primer to seal the bodywork before completing with topcoat.

 

and....... you MUST do this to both sides of the area as Daz mentioned otherwise you'll be wasting your time.

 

Don't just slap on some 'rust killer' and spray it with standard primer, you'll be back to it within months.

 

Clearly if the corrosion has caused deeper damage to the body panel this would need to be removed and replaced with new steel.

 

Just my view but I hope it helps  ;D


Edited by Stu., 29 October 2015 - 04:55 PM.


#14 bangermadness08

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Posted 31 October 2015 - 10:04 PM

krust you get in halfords ive used on most small rust patches only around the seal on the F windscreen not sure if it will last a long time but the thought of cutting out more metal makes me feel ill






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