58 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

which spacers?

as the flywheel has been lightened then the remove material needs to be "put back" so the drive straps are straight.

so they are in the correct place. and they looked straight in the earlier image.

[Spider]

 

This is the amount of movement I get, seems okay to me?

Time to pull the flywheel off?

 

That looks fine to me, it has good travel, though I'd like to know how much the diaphragm is moving, should be the same, but we don't know for certain.

 

I'll just put the thinking cap on a little before you pull the flywheel.

 

What condition was the Primary Gear Bushes in?

Edited by Moke Spider, 28 September 2015 - 04:19 PM.

[Dusky]

 

 

This is the amount of movement I get, seems okay to me?

Time to pull the flywheel off?

 

That looks fine to me, it has good travel, though I'd like to know how much the diaphragm is moving, should be the same, but we don't know for certain.

 

I'll just put the thinking cap on a little before you pull the flywheel.

 

What condition was the Primary Gear Bushes in?

 

that's the best pic I have It did spin freely on the crank, and endfloat was adjusted correctly

[Dusky]

Is it possible for the clutch slave hose to draw in air if the copper washers aren't good ? ( I did reuse them)

When i push the pedal a few times in a row, it is possible to push the car foreward in first, thou you do hear the clutch 'slipping ' against the flywheel.

When the car is running I can get it in 3th and 4th now

[nicklouse]

If you can pump the clutch up then you have air in the system. Either a poor bleed or a leak.

[Spider]

Hard to say for sure, but that Primary Gear Bush doesn't appear 'brilliant', really need to measure the clearance from the bush to the crank. Standard Specs are 0.0035 to 0.005" (for A+), though they will work OK up to about 0.008" - 0.010", after that, they can give trouble, sometimes similar to what you have but more usually when hot.

 

With the engine off, if you hold the clutch down, does the clutch arm slowly creep back on it's own?

 

Usually the copper washers can be used a few times over without issue and when they do become an issue, usually you can anneal them and good to go a few more times.

 

Again, I will suggest measuring the amount of movement / disengagement you are getting off one of the diaphragm bolts, having around 1.5 mm of movement on the plunger (as per your video) is one thing, but whether that is all getting where it's needed is another.

[ChopperHarris]

Not read all of this since my last comment..use a crowbar on the clutch lever to disengage

[Dusky]

Hard to say for sure, but that Primary Gear Bush doesn't appear 'brilliant', really need to measure the clearance from the bush to the crank. Standard Specs are 0.0035 to 0.005" (for A+), though they will work OK up to about 0.008" - 0.010", after that, they can give trouble, sometimes similar to what you have but more usually when hot.

 

With the engine off, if you hold the clutch down, does the clutch arm slowly creep back on it's own?

 

Usually the copper washers can be used a few times over without issue and when they do become an issue, usually you can anneal them and good to go a few more times.

 

Again, I will suggest measuring the amount of movement / disengagement you are getting off one of the diaphragm bolts, having around 1.5 mm of movement on the plunger (as per your video) is one thing, but whether that is all getting where it's needed is another.

Normally it should be right, I can't remember at howmuch the clearance was, but it didn't feel any harder/stiffer to turn than the primary on my other engines 

 

 

Idon't have the bell housing with a hole in it sadly, could I measure the back of the pressure plate with the start motor removed?

 

Not read all of this since my last comment..use a crowbar on the clutch lever to disengage

I'll try that, any idea where I can lever against? Hope its hydraulic actually, would mean I'd solve it with a washer or a cylinder..

[nicklouse]

Re bleed it. Your comment about the master cylinder not being full and you having to pump the pedal.

I don't think you are getting full travel. Also check your stop clearance as that does regulate the total travel of the arm.

Also I note in the video the slave bolts are not tight.?

Then if you are not getting 1/2" of travel at the push rod then you do have an issue.

[Dusky]

Re bleed it. Your comment about the master cylinder not being full and you having to pump the pedal.

I don't think you are getting full travel. Also check your stop clearance as that does regulate the total travel of the arm.

Also I note in the video the slave bolts are not tight.?

Then if you are not getting 1/2" of travel at the push rod then you do have an issue.

I'm not getting the 1/2" of travel, I can't realy bleed the system it seems.

Stop clearance is set at 15 thou now with the arm pulled away from the engine
The slave cylinder is new, the master cylinder isn't. WOuld this point to a dodgy master cylinder?
I can disengage the clutch with a crowbar

Edited by Dusky, 29 September 2015 - 10:39 AM.

[nicklouse]

will it pump up? as you have said it will do earlier.

 

if yes then air is the system. remember the port in the can is not at the bottom but half way up.

[Dusky]

will it pump up? as you have said it will do earlier.

 

if yes then air is the system. remember the port in the can is not at the bottom but half way up.

It wont pump up anymore now :/ When I bleed it now I still get air, even after 15-20 pumps of the pedal.. Is there a special way to bleed a new slave cylinder?

[Spider]

There is something telling in that.

 

Interesting that you do get disengagement with the crow bar, but when everything is in good order, the arm doesn't move that much.

 

Did you assemble the flywheel with the backing plate and clutch plate before fitting on the engine to check that the Bevel Spring in the Diaphragm is flat or a few thou over?

 

<Edit: It's almost behaving like the ball on the bottom of the arm is cracked or broken off>

Edited by Moke Spider, 29 September 2015 - 10:50 AM.

[Dusky]

There is something telling in that.

 

Interesting that you do get disengagement with the crow bar, but when everything is in good order, the arm doesn't move that much.

 

Did you assemble the flywheel with the backing plate and clutch plate before fitting on the engine to check that the Bevel Spring in the Diaphragm is flat or a few thou over?

 

<Edit: It's almost behaving like the ball on the bottom of the arm is cracked or broken off>

I didn't

 

SHould I check that next?

[Spider]

If your hydraulics have air, sort that first, if your slave and hose is new, then it will most likely be the Master, but before ripping it out, check that the pedal is returning all the way and that at rest it is 'hanging' off the Master Cylinder and not contacting the body. If that checks out, then yes, replace the MC and get a new clevis pin while you're at it.

 

If you didn't set the clutch up before fitting it would be a good idea to do so, even if you get it all working following sorting of the hydraulics.

 

Here's the low down on it;-

 

http://www.minimania...FAQ__non_Verto_