58 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

The more I look at the lock tab I am sure there is contact marks. And it does not look like the image I have in my head.

Not that I have looked at the bits in my clutch assy for a long time.

[nicklouse]

Also check the condition of the ball end. And all the pivots.

Not using the spring can cause issues.

How far is the arm moving?

Nuts backed off.

[Dusky]

 

Your going to need a pre verto release bearing, then readjust see how that goes -

 

 

The Bearing Dusty has IS the correct bearing for the Pre-verto - the best money can buy in fact. It's the early type, a 3W5/8 and much better than these ^ crappy things (7W5/8).

 

I can't tell for sure from the photos I saw, but I think - as Nick pointed out - that the flywheel bolt is a verto type and Dusty, did you also buy a pre-verto locating plate for the flywheel?

 

<Edit: Noted that the Pre-verto Bolt for the flywheel has been fitted.

 

What Cam are you running and what Idle speed have you set it at? I would think at the least with your new engine build, you'd have fitted new Cam Follows and so the Idle should be set - initially - up around 2000 RPM, after about 20 minutes run time you can wind it down, but again, depends on what Cam you are running.

 

I see too you went for an Orange Diaphragm and these need a lot more pressure on the release parts to get it to disengage and rarely are they warranted for road use, I'm very sure you'd find a Blue would be quite OK>

 

Got the pre verto locating keyway ( I tried my verto one first, but saw it didnt fit)

Its the blue type diafragm, but I sprayed paint on it to mark where everything was before taking the center piece out, or I might forget putting it back in the right way (I know myself ;p )

Using the 643 camshaft, idle was quite high ( I guess around 1300-1500 rpm ) 

 

The more I look at the lock tab I am sure there is contact marks. And it does not look like the image I have in my head.

Not that I have looked at the bits in my clutch assy for a long time.

 

 

Also check the condition of the ball end. And all the pivots.

Not using the spring can cause issues.

How far is the arm moving?

Nuts backed off.

Will check those things tomorrow, many thanks for thinking with me :)

The locktab is something that concerns me too, could I just remove it? ( I always use loctite on the crank bolt anyway)

 

cheers

[Dusky]

Also heard on facebook that my release bearing should have a 60 thou spacer behind it? As it reassembles a  " coil clutch bearing " ?

[nicklouse]

Also heard on facebook that my release bearing should have a 60 thou spacer behind it? As it reassembles a  " coil clutch bearing " ?

Never heard that before.

Never fitted one.

[Spider]

Also heard on facebook that my release bearing should have a 60 thou spacer behind it? As it reassembles a  " coil clutch bearing " ?

 

 Rarely. Things have to be out of kilter for that and on fresh builds, like yours, were everything is new, it's not required.

[Dusky]

Ah great :)
I still wonder if I did something wrong by first mounting the flywheel and tighten it, and then mount the diafragma?

[Spider]

Ah great :)
I still wonder if I did something wrong by first mounting the flywheel and tighten it, and then mount the diafragma?

 

That's usually how I do them.

 

Two things from your intial post grab my attention;-

 

1)  The noise, and

2)  That the revs drop / almost stalls - Is that with it in Neutral or in Gear?  Try it in Neutral. This is important.

 

From those two things along, while I have refrained until now, I'd say the crank thrusts are in back to front, but only if this happens in Neutral.

 

But, before we go stripping engines again, let's explore all external options.

 

How much throw are you getting at the Slave Cylinder? You really want 16 mm, however 14 mm will be enough.

 

If that checks out, then set your Dial Guage up on one of the bolt heads that's on the Diaphragm, you want a minimum 1.0 mm movement here.

 

If that checks out then there's nothing I can see wrong with the operating mech.

[Dusky]

Ah great :)
I still wonder if I did something wrong by first mounting the flywheel and tighten it, and then mount the diafragma?

 
That's usually how I do them.
 
Two things from your intial post grab my attention;-
 
1)  The noise, and
2)  That the revs drop / almost stalls - Is that with it in Neutral or in Gear?  Try it in Neutral. This is important.
 
From those two things along, while I have refrained until now, I'd say the crank thrusts are in back to front, but only if this happens in Neutral.
 
But, before we go stripping engines again, let's explore all external options.
 
How much throw are you getting at the Slave Cylinder? You really want 16 mm, however 14 mm will be enough.
 
If that checks out, then set your Dial Guage up on one of the bolt heads that's on the Diaphragm, you want a minimum 1.0 mm movement here.
 
If that checks out then there's nothing I can see wrong with the operating mech.

Slave Cylinder throw is good now, rebled it, think I had an airlock somwhere.

It happens in neutral too, but I must say it isnt really stalling, just lowering the revs like 200-300 rpm
The thrust washers should be in the Right way, checked that 3 times now, the rev drop did also happen with the badly ground crank, and when the thrustwashers Came out of that one they were in the right way :) ( i guess its due to the lighter flywheel, and maybe the bad circlips)
Any idea how I can get a dti on the bolts with the clutch cover mounted?
Also, any pics of the correct orientation of the locktab? (or can i leave it out when using loctite?)
Cheers!

[Spider]

OK, the 200 - 300 RPM drop, with an Orange Diaphragm is normal-ish.

 

You can get your Dial Gauge in through the hole for viewing the Timing marks, you may have to rig something to mount it though, or with an assistant, use a vernier going in the same way.

 

Loose the locktab, it will only make the flywheel come loose, I only use Loctite on the bolt, never an issue.

[Dusky]

 

This is the amount of movement I get, seems okay to me?

Time to pull the flywheel off?

[nicklouse]

does not look enough.

do you have the stop set corretly? bolt for the arm return.

[Dusky]

does not look enough.

do you have the stop set corretly? bolt for the arm return.

20 thou gap with the arm pulled away from the engine ( and not attached to the slave)

My master cylinder reservoir isn't filled to the brim, should it be?

[nicklouse]

i thought it should be 15 thou?

yes it should be full as the port is half way down.
could you measure the throw where the pin goes into the slave.

IIRC cooperman had a measurement (cant find it at the moment MokeS might have a number) and i thought it was about <snip>

way off.

The linear travel at the top of the pre-Verto arm must be a minimum of 0.5" and ideally will be 0.55".

Edited by nicklouse, 28 September 2015 - 02:52 PM.

[Dusky]

Are my spacers on wrong?