58 replies to this topic

[Dusky]

Hi guys!

 

So my car finaly runs ( with good oil pressure, yay!)

 

ANyway, I bought a lightened pre verto clutch , backing plate and diafragm along with a slave cylinder etc ( basically everything to convert from pre verto to verto) .

Now, when I push the clutch the car almost stalls, but even worse : the clutch doesn't disengage enough to get into gear.

 

The crank endfloat and primary gear endfloat is fine( I've checked that with my dti) .

My best bet is in the clutch release bearing doing something wrong, as it does make a bit of a grinding noise when pushing the pedal.

 

 

 

Anything on these pics seems awkward?

And could I run without the return spring? I adjusted the clutch according to this article :http://www.7ent.com/...adjustment.html

cheers

 

[nicklouse]

My first thought is that you Spring is not fitted correctly. So the bearing might be pressing on that.

It should be well set into the tabs and a good gap between the hooked ends.

[Stevie W]

Hi Dusky,

 

Not directly connected to your problem, but as above, the retaining spring that holds the thrust washer/plate against the pressure plate has not been correctly fitted. The retaining spring ends should be touching, not overlapping as in your picture.

 

Also, judging by the witness marks on the washer/plate, something is not lined up right. The marks show the release bearing is not in contact with the washer/plate centrally. It'd be worth getting this installation right and if your release bearing is making a grinding noise it's overdue replacement anyway! 

 

Cheers, Steve.

[nicklouse]

Another thought is the bolt. Are they different? Verto and non verto?

Did you change yours?

[Stevie W]

Just another thought. The release bearing doesn't look like the correct one for a pre-verto clutch, they're different.

 

If you had a verto set-up before and have converted to pre-verto as you mentioned, then the release bearing must be changed for the correct pre-verto item.

 

Cheers, Steve.

[Dusky]

Hi!

 

I'll have a go at refitting the spring, didn't know there was a certain orientation for these , it came preinstalled from the diafragm I bought.

The crank bolt and release bearing ( SKF bearing) are both new too , bought them for pre verto use anyway

It does look different to the verto bearing I got, took the advise of my dad to use the SKF bearing, he used to race with it 

 

cheers

[nicklouse]

Hi!
 
I'll have a go at refitting the spring, didn't know there was a certain orientation for these , it came preinstalled from the diafragm I bought.

But you must have taken it off and removed the plate to fit the fly wheel.

You did align the "A"s and the word top.

[nicklouse]

Also not a great fan of that set up link.

You might find that you need to back off the big nuts to check that is all works and then adjust.

[Dusky]

 

Hi!
 
I'll have a go at refitting the spring, didn't know there was a certain orientation for these , it came preinstalled from the diafragm I bought.

But you must have taken it off and removed the plate to fit the fly wheel.

You did align the "A"s and the word top.

 

Not really  
I installed the flywheel without the diafragm, then I fiddeled a lot to get the pressure plate and diafragm aligned  before bolting it up, tho it was with the engine out of the car so only took 5 minutes 

[carbon]

Dusky,

 

May be the angle of the photo, but the clutch thrust washer/plate looks very close to the flywheel retaining bolt. And not central.

 

Can you take a photo of the clutch with thrust washer removed?

[Dusky]

Dusky,

 

May be the angle of the photo, but the clutch thrust washer/plate looks very close to the flywheel retaining bolt. And not central.

 

Can you take a photo of the clutch with thrust washer removed?

 

Just wanted to ask if the spring was right now , but does it look better on this pic? 

 

Edited by Dusky, 27 September 2015 - 06:24 PM.

[The Principal]

Your going to need a pre verto release bearing, then readjust see how that goes -

 

Edited by The Principal, 27 September 2015 - 07:04 PM.

[carbon]

Dusky - yes, that is how the retaining spring should look when installed correctly.

 

Clearance between the back of the clutch thrust plate and the head of the flywheel bolt looks to be 3 - 4mm in the photo, which should be OK.

 

But you mentioned that 'I fiddeled a lot to get the pressure plate and diafragm aligned  before bolting it up'

 

Was there much side-play in the diaphragm / pressure plate alignment? And have you fitted any other non-original parts apart from the pressure plate and the flywheel bolt?

[Dusky]

Dusky - yes, that is how the retaining spring should look when installed correctly.

 

Clearance between the back of the clutch thrust plate and the head of the flywheel bolt looks to be 3 - 4mm in the photo, which should be OK.

 

But you mentioned that 'I fiddeled a lot to get the pressure plate and diafragm aligned  before bolting it up'

 

Was there much side-play in the diaphragm / pressure plate alignment? And have you fitted any other non-original parts apart from the pressure plate and the flywheel bolt?

It's all new from the slave cylinder hose to the back plate, I converted from a verto setup.

 

There wasn't much sideplay, but the back plate wasn't attacged to anything, so it always 'fell' down and it was hard to get the first bolt in, after that it got easy 

[Spider]

Your going to need a pre verto release bearing, then readjust see how that goes -

 

 

The Bearing Dusty has IS the correct bearing for the Pre-verto - the best money can buy in fact. It's the early type, a 3W5/8 and much better than these ^ crappy things (7W5/8).

 

I can't tell for sure from the photos I saw, but I think - as Nick pointed out - that the flywheel bolt is a verto type and Dusty, did you also buy a pre-verto locating plate for the flywheel?

 

<Edit: Noted that the Pre-verto Bolt for the flywheel has been fitted.

 

What Cam are you running and what Idle speed have you set it at? I would think at the least with your new engine build, you'd have fitted new Cam Follows and so the Idle should be set - initially - up around 2000 RPM, after about 20 minutes run time you can wind it down, but again, depends on what Cam you are running.

 

I see too you went for an Orange Diaphragm and these need a lot more pressure on the release parts to get it to disengage and rarely are they warranted for road use, I'm very sure you'd find a Blue would be quite OK>

Edited by Moke Spider, 27 September 2015 - 09:32 PM.