15 replies to this topic

[CPC]

Hello

Would just like a few tips, I am looking a buying the ore built inner and outer sub assembly's probably with M Machine. I noticed the they make them with part floor until the 1st flute and also with the complete half of the floor.

I know this sounds simple but how much work is it to replace the inner/outer sill with complete half floor. This is the best option for my car but could get away the with the smaller items if they are simpler to fit

Chris

[sonikk4]

With the half floor its probably easier to hide the weld whereas unless you are good at butt welding you will always see something when you do the inner sill to first flute. This is currently what i am doing on Project Paddy although my inners are just that no outer sills fitted. Still the M machine panel though. 

 

Doing the half floor will mean a bit more work though as its more of a struggle to get to all of the welds on the heelboard so will really need the car either on a spit or nice and high in the air on axle stands.

[CPC]

Thanks for the reply, my car is currently on a rollover jig so that's not a issue.

Other than suitable bracing is there anything else I need to know, I made this bracing up when I cut the overfills off and repairing the flitch panels, would it be suitable for this



It's welded to the a post/ b post and companion bins

[Covert]

Thats some bracing !

[CPC]

Thats some bracing !

A old farm gate and gas pipe!!

[spiguy]

I think it is safe to presume that your bracing will be sufficient!

[sonikk4]

What you will need to add to that bracing is another section across the cross member then add two drop downs to take onto it. When you cut the floor out it may sag.

[CPC]

Thanks Sonikk4, that should be easy to sort I have plenty of farm gates I can use!!

do you know or have any pics of where the spot welds are on the floor/rear bins area?

[sonikk4]

If you look at this picture just past the seat belt mount you will some of the rear bin spot welds.

 

The other spot welds are easy to find but you will need to clean off any stone chip / sealant etc.

[sonikk4]

These are rear points on the heelboard and the bin end

[CPC]

Thanks again

Do we get any discount with M Machine and I guess they do postage?, I Normally get my parts from DSN classics as they're only 15 minutes away and cheaper in this case but the last panel I bought from them was a magnum panel. Would a magnum panel still work for this. The both sides works out about £70 cheaper all in

[sonikk4]

M Machine offer 10%. When you place your order with them ( You will normally deal with Doreen) make sure you tell them you are a TMF+ member. PM me and I will issue you your membership number later today.

If it's the heelboard you are on about then don't bother with Magnum buy the complete Heritage panel. You can buy them in halves but if one side is gone the odds are the other will be bad as well.

[STG95F]

When your guys are joining the new panel to the original floor , do you join in the middle of a flute or close to the flute or in the middle of the both on the flat of the panel , to make it easier to hide the join ? 

 

Thanks  Ian 

[sonikk4]

I join in between flutes. You have the choice there to either butt weld, overlap or joggle then. Currently on my car I'm butt welding, on my mates car I joggled the floor so it was smooth underneath.

[STG95F]

Ok Thanks