Nice work that rear bulkhead has come out really nice. top work pal!
Mk2 Cooper
#121
Posted 17 January 2016 - 08:05 AM
#122
Posted 17 January 2016 - 09:51 AM
Darren
#123
Posted 17 January 2016 - 09:53 AM
Thanks, I haven't forgot about pictures you need, I just ran out of time yesterday but will probably pop down later today as I am keen to chop one of the quarters off.
Darren
Haha not worry mate in no rush what so ever. Just keen to have a proper look at them :) are you having to cut both rear quarters out during this resto then?
#124
Posted 17 January 2016 - 10:16 AM
Another advantage with removing the quarter is I will have good access when fitting the inner rear bins and closing panels.
#125
Posted 17 January 2016 - 11:40 AM
Yeah thats fair enough there is alot of advantages from doing those rear quarters then. Look forward to seeing the pics I will be having to go down this route as well with my mk1 so would be happy to see how you do it all :)
#126
Posted 17 January 2016 - 12:31 PM
Progress looks good mate
#127
Posted 17 January 2016 - 12:46 PM
I am only using heritage panels on boot floor, scuttle, inner a panels rear panel wheel tubs and inner wings, possibly outer wings but still undecided, the rest are mainly m machine and I believe they modify a magnum front panel for their mk2 spec one.
#128
Posted 17 January 2016 - 04:52 PM
What was removed showing some of the dubious previous repairs
All ready to receive new metal now
Trial fitted the quarter, needs trimming on front edge but it will fit fine
After removing subframe I checked penetration on plug welds from seat back and pleased with them
Next weekend will try to fit bins, wheel tubs and brackets to boot floor, but am happy with fit of panels, pretty sure it will come together now.
A couple of pics of the m machine a panels complete with door post as requested by minimissions
They should really make alignment of doors and front end welding much neater as I should be able to spot weld them to inner wings as per original
Edited by Daz1968, 17 January 2016 - 04:57 PM.
#129
Posted 17 January 2016 - 05:01 PM
Daz1968
I am about to start the restoration of my MK2 and will have to do the same amount of work as you have done, one question I have is when you did the heel board and boot floor how did you make sure the subframe mounts were in the right place, to make sure the subframe was true and square?
Keep up the good work !
Thanks
Paul
#130
Posted 17 January 2016 - 05:47 PM
Supported bare shell c/w doors and subframes on 4 axle stands and got level with a spirit level.
Braced the shell
Removed rear subframe and transferred support to under the boot floor near tubs, still kept level.
Then cut out and removed the main floor leaving old boot floor in place.
Offered up new floor assembly and bolted rear subframe onto heel board and existing rear floor mounts.
Bolted front of floor to front subframe mount
transferred support to rear subframe and checked level.
checked all measurements including important diagonals mine was bang on so no adjustment needed.
Now presume floor is correct and make body fit it not other way round
Weld floor to toe board repairing as required
Fitted door steps using doors and floor for reference, I cut off the front radius as using full a panels later.
Transferred support to floor jack points on back.
Fitted new back panel.
Removed rear subframe and boot floor.
Trial fitted new boot floor with rear subframe clamped in position.
Again check all dimensions and spotweld boot floor to heel board.
I then fitted new seat back and welded this to boot floor.
Have now removed rear subframe to begin rear quarter repairs.
My method may not be best or easiest but has worked fine so far. I have found keeping shell level very useful as everything can then be referenced with a spirit level.
Hope this helps
Edited by Daz1968, 17 January 2016 - 05:58 PM.
#131
Posted 17 January 2016 - 09:31 PM
Thanks for taking the time to show me.
#132
Posted 17 January 2016 - 10:05 PM
#133
Posted 18 January 2016 - 06:23 AM
No problem just never got round to it yesterday. I think they are the best way to replace A panel especially if like my car it has been replaced before, but even if car is original these should fit better and easier than the usual panels. Just got to finish the back end before I can try them. Hopefully won't take too long though. Think I will use heritage inner A panels though.
Yeah I can see that it will make the job of lining the doors etc up loads better. And one that is all in the place the inner a panels can be all clamped down together. Looking forward to seeing you fit all that up :)
#134
Posted 18 January 2016 - 10:51 PM
#135
Posted 18 January 2016 - 11:19 PM
I am amazed how much metal can be cut out without problem. Only issue I have had is when removing rear bulkhead the quarter panels sprung about 6mm out so I put a ratchet strap under car and through rear quarter windows to pull it back before welding in position. I have found a spot welder invaluable though so well worth the investment.
2 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users