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Trouble With Overheating - 1979 Lhd Austin 1380


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#1 crackfoo

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 05:20 PM

Rupert, 1979 Austin mini, 1380cc, Kent 276, Twin SU HS4, Lusas 45D with electric ign (NO Vacuum Advance).

 

I've been continuously battling and issue running hot. I can't seem to figure out why. He originally came with a blanking sleeve in place of a thermostat. I tried using a stat and it seemed to be worse so I've placed back in the blanking sleeve. I don't think I have a bypass hose. I'm not loosing any coolant nor burning much if any oil. He does ooze a few drips of oil from somewhere after sitting for a day or two. Doesn't seem to concerning.

 

He seems to run spot on otherwise, great power in all ranges idles ~1100-1200rpm after start form cold. He does run on if I don't stall him out with the clutch as I'm turning him off but I think mostly this might be because he's so hot. If I turn him off before he starts creeping over the N mark, he turns off ok. Once he starts heading to H his idle begins to rise as I come to stops. Sometimes by the time I get home he wants to idle ~2100rpm. I do sit in a lot of traffic on my way to and from work but his temp seems to be a little over N if I keep moving. 

 

I've since added an aux electric fan but still doesn't seem to be able to keep him cool. He has has a flip forward bonnet and not sure if that is affecting the flow of air out of the wing. I really don't feel much escaping when I have it closed.

 

I thought perhaps I may have a leak in my inlet manifold. This would be what the carbs attach on to, then the inlet to the head? So I had him running and gave him some squirts of Liquid Wrench... I think it's just the same as WD 40, but let me know if I'm wrong or if I HAVE to use WD40. Did it around both carbs and didn't make a change in the engine rpm so I'm guessing this is not the issue...

 

At a loss as to where to go next... I've noticed my breather tends to seep some light smokey looking fumes when he's hotter...

 

Attached is what all my plugs looks like... It seems they read hot/lean? I did richen them up a bit since this pic was taken, maybe 2 flats? But they still look about the same... Perhaps even more richer... but I've got some pretty poor milage I think so he's seems to go through a lot of fuel as it is....

 

I don't have any vacuum advance on my dizzy and I've only taped off the spout on my dizzy, albeit... maybe it's not the best? I'm not sure what else I can use to block it up...

 

Attached File  12011330_10153157499353730_2082391084521636719_n.jpg   29.54K   15 downloads

 

Thanks


Edited by crackfoo, 18 September 2015 - 06:10 PM.


#2 dyshipfakta

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 07:07 PM

Is the standard fan fitted and if it is is it the correct way around. Also is there an oil cooler? Is that gummed up. You shouldn't have any issues particularly without a stat. It needs sorting as it could end up causing you some serious head aches.

#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:13 PM

Is the Rad up to the job? have a Minispares 2 core in my 1330 similar spec to yours, and it keeps it cool whatever its used for on the day



#4 crackfoo

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:28 PM



Is the standard fan fitted and if it is is it the correct way around. Also is there an oil cooler? Is that gummed up. You shouldn't have any issues particularly without a stat. It needs sorting as it could end up causing you some serious head aches.

 

Attached File  11986518_10153131491628730_2842468405985380728_n.jpg   33.37K   21 downloads

 

Have a standard fan AFAIK. It's got some wear to it, but I don't think it's much serious? You can see some nicks out it in this pic.

 

I do have an oil cooler which is mounted on the frame under the opposite wing the rad is on. I'm not sure how to tell if it's gummed up but it looks in good shape but always wondered what good it was if it wasn't in front of the grill....


Edited by crackfoo, 18 September 2015 - 11:31 PM.


#5 crackfoo

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 11:30 PM

Is the Rad up to the job? have a Minispares 2 core in my 1330 similar spec to yours, and it keeps it cool whatever its used for on the day

 

That I'm not sure of... I mean it looks fine on the inside, never see any dis-colourization... but it is 15 years old... not sure how many cores it is... I thought last time I could see them.... that it was a 2 core as well...


Edited by crackfoo, 18 September 2015 - 11:30 PM.


#6 dyshipfakta

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 03:38 PM

Sorry can't help you with the way around the fan has to be I just know it can be on the wrong way and doesn't work very well if you do have it the wrong way. Perhaps also try bypassing oil cooler if it's preventing oil from getting around properly will be more harm then help.

#7 crackfoo

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 04:08 PM

Yeah I think it's on the right way but maybe it's not got the best shape any more?



#8 gazza82

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 06:15 PM

Engine will run clockwise so the way the blades seem to sit should mean it is blowng air out through the rad from the engine bay.

Is the fan belt on the right way? Not slipping on pump pulley is it?

Edited by gazza82, 19 September 2015 - 06:19 PM.


#9 crackfoo

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 06:30 PM

Engine will run clockwise so the way the blades seem to sit should mean it is blowng air out through the rad from the engine bay.

Is the fan belt on the right way? Not slipping on pump pulley is it?

 

The fan belt is on the right way, just has notches on the outside. It's on all 3 pullys. Alternator, Waterpump and engine... 

 

It doesn't seem to slip, doesn't make any noise if it is... If I leave the rad cap off I can see the water gets moving when I start him up.


Edited by crackfoo, 19 September 2015 - 06:33 PM.


#10 crackfoo

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 12:37 AM

Anything else I can tell you to help?

How can I tell if my rad is good enough? Does it sound like that's my next course of action?

Based on my plug... Would it help to richen it up more? Or are they more that colour cause of temp and not leanness...

#11 hhhh

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 02:25 AM

The fan is on backwards here, but it's still blowing air through the rad. What's wrong is the shape of the blades is optimised for least drag and most air pushed in one orientation only, and this isn't it.

 

Engine will run clockwise so the way the blades seem to sit should mean it is blowng air out through the rad from the engine bay.

Is the fan belt on the right way? Not slipping on pump pulley is it?



#12 Earwax

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 09:40 AM

Does water from rad escape and overflow or do you get steam?   You could have a calibration issue of your instrument not a heating issue.... BE CAREFUL if you take the rad cap off when hot.............



#13 dyshipfakta

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 10:16 AM

Do is the fan on the wrong way around? If it is that will pretty much solve the issue

#14 crackfoo

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 10:36 AM

Wow really? I didn't think it was. It's been to the shop a couple times since I got him and they never noticed this either. While it wasn't in for this issue I did mention it has been a problem. I have inquired about the orientation of the fan before in other groups and they said it was ok.

Is it a big job to get the fan off and turned around?



The fan is on backwards here, but it's still blowing air through the rad. What's wrong is the shape of the blades is optimised for least drag and most air pushed in one orientation only, and this isn't it.
 


Engine will run clockwise so the way the blades seem to sit should mean it is blowng air out through the rad from the engine bay.

Is the fan belt on the right way? Not slipping on pump pulley is it?



#15 crackfoo

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 10:38 AM

Does water from rad escape and overflow or do you get steam?   You could have a calibration issue of your instrument not a heating issue.... BE CAREFUL if you take the rad cap off when hot.............


It used to blow water until I replaced the rad cap. Now I don't loose any water. Never steamed before.




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