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Steering Rack Removal / Refitting


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#1 Dzmarc

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 08:04 AM

Can anyone talk me through the replacement / refitting of a steering rack. 

 

I managed to put a small bend in mine after I had to take took avoiding action from a van who had stopped on a blind bend. 

 

Now i've had a look and I'm sure Its possible to remove the rear front subframe mounts and lowering out that way.

But I want to check what is best before I crack on and start unbolting everything.

 

 

 

Thanks



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 08:19 AM

trackrod ends out of arms. release steering column from rack. undo U clamps.

suport sunframe and engine but so either they can be lowered or the boddy raised.

release rear mounts one side (or remove) undo front mount bolt. then undo the top center bolt enough to allow a gap to remove rack.

advise to do one bolt first so you can make sure you have enough thread in the frame so they dont seperate.

things that will need checking for removal or just clearance.

carb on bulkhead. top engine steady(s). earth strap and brake pipe to subframe.

and make sure the wheels are chocked and you are on flat ground.

#3 Dzmarc

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 10:00 AM

trackrod ends out of arms. release steering column from rack. undo U clamps.

suport sunframe and engine but so either they can be lowered or the boddy raised.

release rear mounts one side (or remove) undo front mount bolt. then undo the top center bolt enough to allow a gap to remove rack.

advise to do one bolt first so you can make sure you have enough thread in the frame so they dont seperate.

things that will need checking for removal or just clearance.

carb on bulkhead. top engine steady(s). earth strap and brake pipe to subframe.

and make sure the wheels are chocked and you are on flat ground.

 

Thanks, I'll try and get it on the ramp tonight or tomorrow and start taking it all apart. 

And then just pray I can get it done by Friday. 



#4 spiguy

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 10:25 AM

I put up a sort of step by step a while ago after doing mine, in reply to someone else asking about doing this. Linky in case it is any use to you

 

http://www.theminifo...rack/?p=3255198

 

Take your time and you should be fine. The only frustrating bit really is just the general awkwardness of the job. The more clearance you can get between the back of the subframe and the toe-board the better. I actually found it to be alot easier than I was anticipating, but I did make a real effort to avoid my usual habit of raging at fiddly stuff and losing the plot. I think that helped! Still used a reasonable range of essential swear words throughout of course! :lol:



#5 A-Cell

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 10:28 AM

The aim is to lower the rear of the front subframe to achieve just enough clearance to be able to remove the Rack U bolts.
You will have to disconnect the engine steady.

#6 Dzmarc

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Posted 14 September 2015 - 11:27 AM

I put up a sort of step by step a while ago after doing mine, in reply to someone else asking about doing this. Linky in case it is any use to you

 

http://www.theminifo...rack/?p=3255198

 

Take your time and you should be fine. The only frustrating bit really is just the general awkwardness of the job. The more clearance you can get between the back of the subframe and the toe-board the better. I actually found it to be alot easier than I was anticipating, but I did make a real effort to avoid my usual habit of raging at fiddly stuff and losing the plot. I think that helped! Still used a reasonable range of essential swear words throughout of course! :lol:

 

The aim is to lower the rear of the front subframe to achieve just enough clearance to be able to remove the Rack U bolts.
You will have to disconnect the engine steady.

 

Thanks for the advice guys I will bare it in mind, try to avoid the raging (I was guilty of that trying to get the clutch pedal roll pin back in) and as Bob the Builder said 'get the job done.'

That's a great guide to. Time to order one up and crack on. 

 

Thanks



#7 Dzmarc

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 06:43 AM

So completed it this weekend with little hassle following most of Spiguys tutorial.

Saying that getting the engine steady back on was a little tough but the rest was actually a little easier than I had anticipated. 

 

 

Thanks again.



#8 Spider

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 08:14 AM

So completed it this weekend with little hassle following most of Spiguys tutorial.

Saying that getting the engine steady back on was a little tough but the rest was actually a little easier than I had anticipated. 

 

 

Thanks again.

 

Great work and thanks for letting us know how you went.

 

Try it on a Moke - you need arms at least 6 foot long to reach over the side boxes to get to the bolts in the floor!



#9 Dzmarc

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 09:00 AM

 

So completed it this weekend with little hassle following most of Spiguys tutorial.

Saying that getting the engine steady back on was a little tough but the rest was actually a little easier than I had anticipated. 

 

 

Thanks again.

 

Great work and thanks for letting us know how you went.

 

Try it on a Moke - you need arms at least 6 foot long to reach over the side boxes to get to the bolts in the floor!

 

 

 

To be honest, we got lucky in a few places. We didn't have to removed the exhaust and I'm pretty sure I could of left the airbox on, although I did remove it as a precaution. 

 

As you can sense the word 'WE', (I employed the use of my dad for the day with a couple of cups of tea as payment), so if you want a hand with the Moke and can travel  some 10000 miles i'm sure we could get around you 6 foot long arm problem.  ;-)



#10 Spider

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 09:36 AM

 

 

So completed it this weekend with little hassle following most of Spiguys tutorial.

Saying that getting the engine steady back on was a little tough but the rest was actually a little easier than I had anticipated. 

 

 

Thanks again.

 

Great work and thanks for letting us know how you went.

 

Try it on a Moke - you need arms at least 6 foot long to reach over the side boxes to get to the bolts in the floor!

 

 

 

To be honest, we got lucky in a few places. We didn't have to removed the exhaust and I'm pretty sure I could of left the airbox on, although I did remove it as a precaution. 

 

As you can sense the word 'WE', (I employed the use of my dad for the day with a couple of cups of tea as payment), so if you want a hand with the Moke and can travel  some 10000 miles i'm sure we could get around you 6 foot long arm problem.  ;-)

 

 

Bhaha,,, now there's an offer too hard to walk past, sure, any time your Dad and yourself want to drop by to lend a hand, you'd both be most welcome, might even find something for a feed ;D



#11 peter-b

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 11:01 AM

 

Bhaha,,, now there's an offer too hard to walk past, sure, any time your Dad and yourself want to drop by to lend a hand, you'd both be most welcome, might even find something for a feed ;D

 

 

 

mmmmm, bar-b-qued kangaroo road kill. :X



#12 spiguy

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 12:45 PM

So completed it this weekend with little hassle following most of Spiguys tutorial.

Saying that getting the engine steady back on was a little tough but the rest was actually a little easier than I had anticipated. 

 

 

Thanks again.

 

Excellent. Well done to you both! Like you I found that It's not as bad as you at first think, just awkward.






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