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Remote Gearbox Drive Flange Removal.


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#1 jagman.2003

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 07:25 PM

Any tips for removing the drive flanges from the remote type gearbox. (Outputs from diff).

Haynes manual suggests wedging a piece of wood between the flange & the gearbox casing.

I haven't got very far with this so far. So any better methods?

 

Otherwise any general tips for the remote gearbox diassembly?



#2 carbon

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 07:37 PM

Rubber or hardy spicer type flanges?

 

There are proper tools to hold the flanges for both types. And the people I know who rebuild gearboxes use these tools.

 

If they are really tight I would go very carefully with the wooden wedge, there's a lot of leverage and you really don't want to crack the gearbox casing. If it's a decent 4-syncro remote casing you have, then these are getting a bit thin on the ground...



#3 jagman.2003

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 07:39 PM

Rubber or hardy spicer type flanges?

 

There are proper tools to hold the flanges for both types. And the people I know who rebuild gearboxes use these tools.

 

If they are really tight I would go very carefully with the wooden wedge, there's a lot of leverage and you really don't want to crack the gearbox casing. If it's a decent 4-syncro remote casing you have, then these are getting a bit thin on the ground...

This is the rubber cross type, damaging the casing was my concern.

Not sure if I can get the flange in a vice?



#4 carbon

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 07:47 PM

If you can't get the tools then couple of options :

- impact driver (compressed air or electric) with the wooden wedge might shock the nut free

- make up a tool to hold the flange

 

Tool is 1/4inch thick steel flat bar about 18 inches long, would originally have 4 studs which locate with the holes in the flange, and hole big enough to fit socket onto the retaining nut. But getting the holes in the right place is a faff.



#5 jagman.2003

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 07:51 PM

If you can't get the tools then couple of options :

- impact driver (compressed air or electric) with the wooden wedge might shock the nut free

- make up a tool to hold the flange

 

Tool is 1/4inch thick steel flat bar about 18 inches long, would originally have 4 studs which locate with the holes in the flange, and hole big enough to fit socket onto the retaining nut. But getting the holes in the right place is a faff.

Great, thanks Carbon.

I might have an air gun somewhere.

Otherwise, I'll have a go at creating something like that.

Might be able to use some large angle iron.


Edited by jagman.2003, 02 August 2015 - 07:52 PM.


#6 Spider

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 09:09 PM

For years I just wedged them with a block of steel against the case, even used a tyre lever for a while. They aren't real tight (or shouldn't be) and if you go easy, you won't damage the case.

 

If you don't feel comfortable with that, you can hold the Drive Yolk with a Big Shifting Spanner, many in the 18 - 24" Size will fit over it.

 

Then again, if you've got a welder & a hole saw, it's not hard and shouldn't take long to make a tool. You could possibly even scrounge for an old Drive Yolk - either the gearbox or drive shaft side - and weld a bar on to that. Bolt that up to the Yolk on the Gearbox with a couple of long bolts (about 3 or 4" at a guess) and then undo the nut with a ring spanner.

 

I only made mine up about a year ago!



#7 jagman.2003

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Posted 03 August 2015 - 07:20 AM

For years I just wedged them with a block of steel against the case, even used a tyre lever for a while. They aren't real tight (or shouldn't be) and if you go easy, you won't damage the case.

 

If you don't feel comfortable with that, you can hold the Drive Yolk with a Big Shifting Spanner, many in the 18 - 24" Size will fit over it.

 

Then again, if you've got a welder & a hole saw, it's not hard and shouldn't take long to make a tool. You could possibly even scrounge for an old Drive Yolk - either the gearbox or drive shaft side - and weld a bar on to that. Bolt that up to the Yolk on the Gearbox with a couple of long bolts (about 3 or 4" at a guess) and then undo the nut with a ring spanner.

 

I only made mine up about a year ago!

Thanks Moke Spider, will be rooting through my workshop for parts to fabricate something now.

The nuts on mine do seem tight. A bit of age related rust won't be helping.



#8 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 03 August 2015 - 11:06 AM

Have you removed the split pin ?



#9 jagman.2003

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Posted 03 August 2015 - 12:17 PM

Have you removed the split pin ?

Yes, thanks. Always worth checking.

I'm soaking in plus gas overnight as well.



#10 jagman.2003

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 07:20 AM

Just for reference I thought I'd quickly round up the conclusion to this question.

I drilled a couple of 8mm holes in large piece of angle iron & bolted it to the drive flange.

With the gearbox on the bench I ran the angle iron vertically down the bench side.

This meant I could lean on the angle iron whilst undoing the nut. Both cracked open easy enough once the setup was secure.

I could have done this flat on the floor as well.

I did take a photo but my phone died & took the photo with it.

 

Thanks for the help folks.



#11 Spider

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 08:16 AM

Thanks for the up-date and glad it worked up :-)






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