I set mine up in a similar way, the main point being to get the Diaphragm Spring Flat, although I tend to go just a wee bit more, to allow for normal plate wear.
OK, on to your issues, which I don't feel are related to this but may need to go through it to set it up right.
What clutch Plate are you running?
Did you set up the Orange Diaphragm is a similar way to what was shown in that video. The Oranges do provide pretty good clamping and you'd really need to have something fairly high powered (>120 HPs) to warrant going any stronger, as long as it's combined with the right plate (paddle type). I only ever like to run what's needed and no more, it only puts a lot more stress (and wear) back in to the crank thrusts.
Have you measured how much movement of the backing plate you are getting and if it's even? Wind the engine over until one of the backing plate bold heads lines up with the timing inspection hole, then have someone operate the clutch and measure through the hole how much movement you are getting. You need a minimum of 0.040" (1 mm) and when everything is in good nick, you'll get 0.100" of movement.
Check the crank thrusts are also in good nick, lever the Harmonic damper back (towards the engine), and see (or preferably measure) if it moves when the foot goes on the clutch. You want no more than 0.010" here.
You may need all the bolts in the clutch cover if any are missing.
What condition is the Arm and Plunger In? With the stronger Diaphragms, the MED Type might be worth considering.
What type of Thrust Bearing are you running?
Is the Thrust Plate on the Diaphragm hardened? There were some that came out in recent years that were soft.
How much movement at the Slave Cylinder are you getting? Needs to be a minimum of 5/8"
