31 replies to this topic

[I hate Brian]

Hi all, can someone tell me where is the best place to cut and weld the rear quarter panels please

[Ben_O]

If you are using a genuine panel then the joins are on the B and C pillars but the non genuine ones  join along the swage lines below the B and C pillars.

 

Best bet is to get the new panel first so you can see exactly where to cut.

 

If you are wanting to get the panel out of the way to make repairs, the best bet is to cut the bulk of the panel off leaving it about 1" below the swage line

[sonikk4]

Something like this

[Ben_O]

that's a Heritage panel isn't it Neil?

[sonikk4]

Certainly is Ben. The Magnum one i fitted to Pauls car was cut in virtually the same places on the B and C pillars. 

[Ben_O]

which are the ones that cut in lower then? Hadrian perhaps?

[sonikk4]

There are several out there, most of those ones i have seen are on Ebay. Would not touch them with a barge pole. Too much hassle.

[Ben_O]

agreed. i like my reclaimed quarters 

[Carlos W]

I fitted magnum ones.

 

The bitterness of poor quality lasts long after the cheap price is forgotten.

[Shifty]

The pattern ones that fit below the window are useless, not even fit for scrap

[I hate Brian]

Thanks gents I'd already bought the Magnum panels and offered up one for a fit last night and wasn't impressed so I think it's going to be Heritage. I seem to remember someone posting that they cut under the swage line, I've left about 1"1/2 below the swage line so I could roughly fit the panel.

Who's the cheapest for Heritage at the moment ? I will say one thing from experience now other than the magnum flitch panel which wasn't good but a cheaper alternative to major work Magnum are really poor. This is the last time I will ever buy a Magnum panel, just so hard to justify Heritage when it's a hobby that the wife doesn't like :)

[Carlos W]

You get 12.5% discount off heritage at minispeed with your TMF+ discount.

 

I also found magnum panels very poor. I've learnt so much I almost want to do another one.

[I hate Brian]

Cheers Carlos

[chuffed]

I dont mean to hijack this thread, however seeing as i was going to ask this on anoher thread i may as well ask it here.

"How hard is it to change the quater panels and the inner (top bit) arch?"

I mean, ive attempted to tub my arch but want to backtrack. I can weld of some sorts, and know its just plug welds but is it something an amature welder could attempt?

Thanks

[Ben_O]

I dont mean to hijack this thread, however seeing as i was going to ask this on anoher thread i may as well ask it here.

"How hard is it to change the quater panels and the inner (top bit) arch?"

I mean, ive attempted to tub my arch but want to backtrack. I can weld of some sorts, and know its just plug welds but is it something an amature welder could attempt?

Thanks

You need to make sure that your plug welds are pretty much perfect as strength is important here so practice up on that.

 

Other than that, it is straightforward and just a case of drilling spot welds carefully. The neater you drill the spot welds out, the easier it will be to weld on the new one.

 

When i do a quarter, i like to plug weld the arch lips together through the arch tub lip onto the quarter panel lip if that makes sense? I find it much easier to clean the welds up from that side. I do the same along the bottom to the sill too.

 

The only thing that can be tricky is splitting the seam between the quarter panel and rear panel as there are lots of closely spaced spot welds, most of which are right on the edge of the seam.

It often pays to grind the spot welds away carefully with a grinding stone before splitting the seam.

 

Make sire that you check how far the new panel comes up the B and C posts and cut carefully. You can just leave around 1" below where it fits to the B and C posts and you will be able to overlap the new panel and mark up where the final cut will be.

 

If none of that makes sense, i have some photos that will explain it so just let me know.

 

Cheers

 

Ben