27 replies to this topic

[Steve220]

And the impact bar.

 

I might look into this for the rebuild :) Would be pretty useful to have it and build it into the current loom.

[screech]

Yes, sorry I forgot the impact bar. But that's makes no difference when fitting the kit.

[Tamworthbay]

The wood and Pickett kit is the same as you will find in minispares, moss etc. they are very good as long as you follow the instruction and spend a bit of time setting it up. I've had mine for over 10years now.
There's a couple of cheaper kits available, which use the same design of levers etc, but not sure if the build quality is as good.
As for the comment regarding universal kits, this is not good advice, the mini kit is specific to the mini, not just a universal kit.
Also, the kit is the same for mpi's (the doors are exactly the same) with the exception of the rover remote interface.

out of interest what parts make them mini specific? The minispares one I have seen appears to be a fairly generic kit but with mini specific instructions which made very little difference. Never seen the wood and Pickett kit so don't know what they do/ don't include. Does yours come with specific mounts for the servos on the doors? Or a plug and play wiring loom?

[Albino_Hedgehog]

Will a standard kit be easily adapted to a mini?

[Tamworthbay]

Will a standard kit be easily adapted to a mini?

the generic kits are dead easy to fit in a mini. Like anything, you need a bit of common sense but it's not difficult. I am not sure what the mini specific kits have that the generic ones don't but at £20ish for a generic kit and about £120 for the minispares one then I can't see what could justify that difference personally unless they have specific mountings for the doors that just bolt in and a plug and play wiring loom. The generic kits just need two holes drilling in the door inner skin to mount the servo rail, then the wiring splicing in (I would not be surprised if the mini specific kits needs this doing as well). It would take someone who is fairly practical about a morning or allow a full day if you never done anything much on the car before.

[screech]

The mini doors can only have the solenoid mounted in the bottom of the door.

The mini specific kit uses a lever system to transfer the movement from the bottom of the door, to the top (where the mechanism is) where it needs to move left-right.

[screech]

the generic kits are dead easy to fit in a mini.

I would be very interested to see how you've done this.

Edited by screech, 06 July 2015 - 04:53 PM.

[Tamworthbay]

the generic kits are dead easy to fit in a mini.

I would be very interested to see how you've done this.

Just by dropping out the winder mechanism and mounting them behind the inner panel. It was my last but one mini I fitted it to. I don't think I have any pics but will have a look as I may have. I don't see why the solenoid can only go at the bottom of the door. Perhaps that's just the way kit does it to make installation a bit easier? I can't see the lever bit you mention in the pic of the kit so hard to guess how that fits.

[Tamworthbay]

I wonder if there would be a market for the kits but with specific fitting instructions and the required tweaks already done? I think it could easily be done for significantly less than the existing ones, not sure if they sell,enough to make it worth the effort though.

[finch661]

i believe there was a installation guide in the mini magazine last year - lots of pics - i'll see if i can find the issue!

Edited by finch661, 07 July 2015 - 11:12 AM.

[Minimad100]

And the impact bar.
 
I might look into this for the rebuild :) Would be pretty useful to have it and build it into the current loom.

Impact bar doesn't make a difference for central locking! It makes fitting electric windows much harder!!

[Steve220]

But it is a difference, which is what was stated.

Not going to bother with electric windows. It's a novelty.

[giorgos1410]

Hi guys, Just read about the topic for alarm system. Yesterday i tried to install an alarm system with central locking and i faced some problems that i have no idea how to proceed. The main problem is that the alarm stayed armed! The wiring diagram is not saying everything (from what i understand). Please see attached files.

   IMG_20150712_082922.jpg   29.31K   27 downloads

 

I installed the actuators an the doors and i tried to work the system before the final installation. The problem is that the central locking is not working.

 IMG_20150712_080817.jpg   30.77K   15 downloads

 

I can hear the alarm module to perform actions (blinking on unlock and lock) but actually the actuators are not working. From the main actuator there are 8 wires. The first 2 are the light brown and white, and the other 5 are together (those are the wires from the actuator and the red for the power wire).

 IMG_20150712_080906.jpg   49.66K   17 downloads

 

Seems like those two left wires are signal wires? when i earth the brown one the actuators instantly perform lock and unlock action.

 

Now in attachment 4, is the alarm module. from left to right i have the LED Light harness and the Shock sensor harnes. Then i have one blue and one white wire. From the manual is saying that the blue is negative trigger and the white is KEY ON (ACC) POSSITION.

 

Then i have one orange (is for the foot brake switch) Not to use that

Green (trunk) not to use that

2 browns (for indicator lights)

Red (Live wire)

Pink for the siren

Black (earth)

Yellow (is going to the ignition) *** In the manual there is a relay where the yellow is end up - do i have to install a relay???

 

All those 10 wires are in the same harness

 

Next to that there is a harness with 6 wires

Yellow/black 

White/black

Orange/black

Yellow

White

Yellow

 

All those are for Central controllock arranging line.

 

Now does anyone have an idea how the wiring must be? 

Attached Files

•  IMG_20150712_082957.jpg   40.6K   21 downloads