Jump to content


Photo

Floor Pans.


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 thedjse

thedjse

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 166 posts
  • Location: Manchester

Posted 22 June 2015 - 06:57 AM

Well underneath the mini at the weekend and guess what the floor pan is on its way out at the front.

 

Passenger is worse than drivers but i intend on doing both, issue is i cant weld so will be relying on someone else doing the wrok would like to make it easy as possible for someone.

 

Couple of questions....

 

  • Where do i go for the panels (ie is there a particular one to buy like heritage???)
  • How much would you expect to pay for someone to cut the rot out and weld in the new panels?
  • Im in manchester is there anyone local i could take it to?

Thanks



#2 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,033 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Oxfordshire

Posted 22 June 2015 - 07:57 AM

The front floor panels are readily available, Minispares etc etc do them. Just make sure they do not weld them to the crossmember and that they cut out all of the old pan first and not just lay the new one on top. Also they need to be aware of the battery cable, brake and fuel lines that run under them as well.

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Can't help with anybody to weld them in for you.

#3 I hate Brian

I hate Brian

    One Carb Or Two?

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 782 posts
  • Location: nottingham

Posted 22 June 2015 - 08:51 AM

Hi Neil, why have you said do not weld to the cross member ??



#4 Ben_O

Ben_O

    Mill Road Garage

  • Paint Doctor
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,794 posts
  • Location: Isle of Wight

Posted 22 June 2015 - 09:41 AM

I think he means either don't use the budget type pans that have the folds at the back to go up and over the crossmember or don't just weld the back of the pan to the crossmember inside the car??

 

The best ways are to either cut out what you need from the new pan and seam weld it to the existing pan after removing the rotten part, or if you want to fit the whole thing (like i did) then mark up the old pan to just smaller than the new one and cut it all out. You can then do your back join to the rear floor from underneath and have a nice seam weld that runs under the crossmember out of sight as well as being able to plug weld the floor pan to the crossmember flanges making for a nice strong neat finish.

It also gives a perfect opportunity to de-rust the inside of the crossmember 

 

i would recommend the latter if you have the time as it gives a nice original finish instead of a patch.

 

Ben


Edited by Ben_O, 22 June 2015 - 09:42 AM.


#5 thedjse

thedjse

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 166 posts
  • Location: Manchester

Posted 22 June 2015 - 10:23 AM

Thanks guys what sort of prices should i be expecting for this???



#6 Ben_O

Ben_O

    Mill Road Garage

  • Paint Doctor
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,794 posts
  • Location: Isle of Wight

Posted 22 June 2015 - 10:40 AM

Thanks guys what sort of prices should i be expecting for this???

Will you be stripping the car out yourself?

 

You would need to remove all of the interior (anything fabric based or that would burn or be burnt by stray sparks and move clear any brake lines/fuel pipes from beneath.

 

If you are having the whole thing replaced, it will obviously be dearer because there is a lot more involved but if you are going down the route of cutting what you need from the new pan and welding it in then it will be considerably cheaper.

 

Bare in mind that depending on who does the job, you may need to specify that you want a corrosion resistant paint (like Zinc primer) in all of the seams like the toeboard where the pan sits over the top and that you want the pan to be butt welded in and not just laid over the top as this will cause all sorts of problems down the line.

 

The best bet is to let someone who knows mini's do the job and preferably someone who wants to make a nice job of it. i have seen some real horror stories done by general welders who think that tack welding a piece of steel over the holes and then covering it in underseal is good enough.

 

it would also keep the cost down if you ask to have it back unpainted (well in primer would be good) then that way, you can do the refinishing yourself to a standard that you would be happy with like sealing it up, stonechip etc

 

as for cost, don't expect it to be low for a decent job. If the price is low, it will usually reflect the quality of the job.



#7 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,276 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 23 June 2015 - 06:02 PM

Best way is to buy a MIG welding set and DIY. It's the only way to own a classic car unless you have a lot of cash.



#8 thedjse

thedjse

    Mini Mad

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 166 posts
  • Location: Manchester

Posted 23 June 2015 - 06:28 PM

Issue is if i get it wrong pal.

Best way is to buy a MIG welding set and DIY. It's the only way to own a classic car unless you have a lot of cash.



#9 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,033 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Oxfordshire

Posted 23 June 2015 - 06:42 PM

 

Issue is if i get it wrong pal.

Best way is to buy a MIG welding set and DIY. It's the only way to own a classic car unless you have a lot of cash.

 

 

So many people on here have bit the bullet and taught themselves to weld. The initial outlay may not be cheap however it will soon recoup itself if you intend on becoming a long term classic car owner. And this way you will know the work has been done and all of the old rust etc has been cut out.






1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users