12 replies to this topic

[Pidge]

Sorry if this is a noob question and is covered somewhere but can anyone tell me what the copper brake line specs are please. I am looking at replacing all the lines while I have good access to the underneath but I'm struggling to find any info on it.

 

I was looking at getting this kit... http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

[KernowCooper]

Are you asking for the pipe lengths ? I just make them to fit or copy the one you remove. I'd be asking if the 3/16 pipe on ebay is actually copper? brake pipes are made from kuinifer pipe not pure copper as copper has a very low fatigue threshold.

[Pidge]

Not the lengths, its the ends in the kit I meant. Is the 3/16 I need? So the kit I linked to would work if it is of the right construction?

[KernowCooper]

Some later cars have metric on the master cylinder and imperial on wheel cylinders and fittings, the very early cars were all imperial so that kit would be ok, later cars you woulld need 10mm and 12mm unions on the master cylinder see below info

Attached Files

•  Yellow Tag Master Cylinder.gif   111.96K   41 downloads

Edited by KernowCooper, 31 May 2015 - 05:30 PM.

[Pidge]

Thanks for that, it looks the same as my cylinder. I'll get the bits I need, thanks again.

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

There are combination of UNF and Metric, depending on your year Mini.

 

People use copper and cupro nickel. It is preference. Copper is fine for your everyday run around Mini. Nothing wrong with it. I have used it years along with cupro nickel.

 

Unions used are 3/8 unf ,(24tpi) , 10mm x 1mm pitch and additionaly 12mm x 1mm pitch

 

I make all lines.

[Spider]

 not pure copper as copper has a very low fatigue threshold.

 

I have no idea what the situation is in the UK regarding Copper tubing for Brake Hydraulics, but here in Aust it is illegal as it work hardens from vibration and then cracks.

[zerobelow]

A few notes before you start.

 

1) If you buy that kit, you will still need to purchase a flaring tool to make the ends. That will add a bit to the cost, research that first.

2) That kit seems to use copper tube. There are widely varying debates as to the suitability of copper versus copper nickel. Copper nickel (cunifer, kunifer) is designed for this, and copper is debated (some say safe, some say not). I'd personally spend a few extra bucks to get the definitely correct one, especially when considering the work needed to put it in. If the pipe bursts, that's going to happen during a situation like a panic brake when a kid runs in front of the car, etc.

3) Don't just look at the threads of your tube nuts to determine which type to use. Check the "Common Crossthreads" section of this page:

http://www.fedhillus...mon flares6.pdf

 

The 3/8 x 24 UNF American nut will thread very easily and loosely into a 10mm x 1.0 thread fitting but will hopefully strip the threads when you tighten it down

You can start the 10mm x 1.0 thread nut in a 3/8 x 24 UNF thread fitting but it will immediatly begin stripping the threads

Edited by zerobelow, 11 June 2015 - 08:12 PM.

[Pidge]

Cheers, I already have a flaring tool but think I'll go for the copper nickel tube. Thanks for all the advice.

[gazza82]

'cheap' flaring tools may not be strong enough on kunifer ..

[Pidge]

Poo! I'll give it a go and if I get issues I'll buy another. Cheers.

[zerobelow]

'cheap' flaring tools may not be strong enough on kunifer ..

The cunifer should be pretty easy to flare and bend; almost as easy as copper. Cunifer is considerably easier to flare and work with than stainless steel which is the other main material people use. I would expect most tools to work fine with the cunifer...

 

That said, make sure your tool can also do the correct flares needed -- I think many of these will need double flares, as opposed to a bubble flare. I can't talk to the specific flares and fittings on the mini, as my specific example has mostly non-mini brake setup.

[nicklouse]

Most Mini flares are bubble. Only double flares are needed for the rear flexy hose fitting.