43 replies to this topic

[Hamstein]

Very useful advice on this post, - but I need a bit more!

I'm doing the sills and floor, using the full length heritage floor panels, but I also need to replace the toeboard! I've got the car braced and up on a rollerjig, but typically it bolts to the existing toeboard as well as the tower bolt holes on the bulkhead,

any ideas of how to approach this? Floors/sills first then take the jig off to do toeboard using subframe to position it? or is there a better way? Cheers!

 

 

-oops, forgot I've got to fit new doorsteps too!

Edited by Hamstein, 06 July 2018 - 06:33 AM.

[sonikk4]

I would get the door steps in first.

 

That will give you more strength to start with, then do the floors next. Keep thinking strength here even with the bracing.

 

Then once the floors are in, support the front of the car,  take off the spit support arms and replace the toeboard. The toeboard should only really fit one way.

[Hamstein]

Thanks, I'll give it a go!

[screech]

Sorry, me again!!

I’ve finally managed to get a sill off this evening. It doesn’t look horrendous, so will only be replacing parts of the inner sill and floor at the front.

How do you go about removing the jacking point with the door step in place and rear slinging bracket? They look like they have some hidden spot welds.

Thanks!

[sonikk4]

Sorry, me again!!

I’ve finally managed to get a sill off this evening. It doesn’t look horrendous, so will only be replacing parts of the inner sill and floor at the front.

How do you go about removing the jacking point with the door step in place and rear slinging bracket? They look like they have some hidden spot welds.

Thanks!

 

I cut them down until you can get to the flanges or whats left of them. then pop the spot welds.

[screech]

Thanks, will have a nibble at it tomorrow. Then an m machine order will be needed ?

[Bens mini 66]

nice job, really helpful

[harrythehat]

have been doing a full inner and outer cills come across a small problem

putting the bins back (seat belt anchorage) fits at the back but when it comes to the front edge lining with door frame. its 20mm to tall and cannot get it to line up

without chopping some of at the bottom and reshaping whole bottom edge of bin.

anyone else come across this and a way around doing it.

used heritage panels by the way

thanks in advance

[Dave45]

Top write-up! Quick question.. I have a 1975 gt that needs a heelboard. According to Minispares, the post 1991 heelboard is different and has a plate from it that welds to the inner sill (as in your photo). Do you know if it is recommended to fit the later type heelboard to mine as it looks stronger? The early type has no plate.

Any advice welcome! Cheers!

[sonikk4]

Top write-up! Quick question.. I have a 1975 gt that needs a heelboard. According to Minispares, the post 1991 heelboard is different and has a plate from it that welds to the inner sill (as in your photo). Do you know if it is recommended to fit the later type heelboard to mine as it looks stronger? The early type has no plate.

Any advice welcome! Cheers!

I fitted that type to my 74 Clubby as it goes. If you look at Project Paddy in my signature you will see what I did.

[sonikk4]

The replacement heelboard before fitting

 

[sonikk4]

Old one removed

[sonikk4]

Some other info relevant for the older type car with regards to the floor at the rear

 

https://www.theminif...rebuild/page-22

[Dave45]

Apologies for not replying. Ive just seen this! I did the same as you and went for the later type panel. I made a bit of a mistake though..

Because the car is so rotten and in danger of snapping, I did one side at a time. I welded half the heel board in on drivers side, then offered up my new subframe to weld the passenger side. It fit a treat! However the sills wouldn't align. Turned out I had a duff subframe that was 1/4" not wide enough.

Ripped it out and used a full panel second time around.

Live and learn! Thanks for that! Going to study your pictures!