9 replies to this topic

[Fossy313]

Hi guys,

 

July is quickly coming and its the time I have put aside to pull the engine out my mpi and do a rebuild on the gearbox and hopefully give the engine a refurb.

 

guessworks has kindly pointed me in the right direction for the gearbox but im still a bit unsure for the engine rebuild on what I should be changing. I have done quite a bit of research and im pretty confident in my abilities to what needs to be done but I have a few questions that hopefully some of you can answer.

 

Firstly what I want to know is can I just renew the crank bearings and big end bearings and thrust washers. I am not having any machining done as unfortunately there is no one in jersey to do it. Im also on a budget.

 

At the moment im looking at doing as follows

 

leaving the head (it was new and fitted 3 months ago)

rebuilding the gearbox with guessworks kit, changing the final drive to 3.2

new cam/plus followers

new simplex timing chan

new turbo clutch and lightened flywheel (courtesy of AC) 

new forged 1:4 roller rockers

 

new oil galleys????

new main bearings???

new big end bearings??

which ones do I order just standard???

new piston rings?

engine gasket kit and spare shims(mainly for gearbox)

 

 

on top of this does anyone know of any MPI related things that I need to order separately?

 

im also wondering what the grey paste is minimania and bill sollis both used to grease the washes???

 

basically im getting together a price list and working out my budget.

 

thanks for the help and no doubt there will be some more questions but for the mean time thanks in advance.

[KernowCooper]

Before you do any ordering of shells and piston rings then its imperative to measure  the crank journals and the bores to see if they are in spec, what mileage has the engine done? it may mean you will require a rebore or a crank grind.

 

A new oil pump add to the list and the oil gallery is part of the block

Edited by KernowCooper, 17 April 2015 - 09:08 PM.

[minimadles]

Like KC said it's a case of strip down and measure up to check for wear you won't know what the internal condition is like until one takes a peek

[Cooperman]

As Dave says, strip and measure everything and closely inspect all parts.

 

If the bores are not worn hone the bores & fit new rings.

Fit the following new parts:

 

Oil pump,

Main & big-end shells, after having the crank re-ground if necessary

Crankshaft thrust bearings to give a crank end-float of 0.0015" to 0.004"

Cam and followers (time in accurately with offset woodruff key as necessary)

Timing chain

Water pump

 

Check primary gear and primary gear end float.

Fit all new gaskets & seals

Fit a new clutch centre plate.

[Spider]

Here's a list of parts and machining done for a recent rebuild;-

 

Pete *****, E/N   10YF / U / *****   26/09/2015

1100 Stock rebuild

 

Head and Block Clean (Redi Strip)

Crank Crack Test and Grind

Bore & Hone

Surface Block

Swirl Tank (Hot Wash)

Close & Hone Con Rods

Check Rod Alignment

Head Service (Cut Valve Seats & Face Deck)

Supply & Fit Unleaded Inserts

Remove Broken Stud (from head)

 

Thrust Washers - suit 998 / 1100

Big End Bearings - suit 998 / 1100 -0.010"

Cam Bearing Set - Suit 998 / 1100

Main Bearing Set - suit 998 / 1100 - 0.010"

Oil pressure Relief Valve Spring

Piston Set - 1100 + 0.040"

Diff Pin - Comp Specs

Gearbox Layshaft - Comp Spec

Welsh Plugs - Brass

Fan Belt

O Ring - Side Plate

O Ring Cup Washer suit above

Rocker Shaft

Oil Pump - Pin Drive Small Bore

O Ring - Distributor Drive Sleave

Engine Mount

Clutch Arm

Baulk Rings

Cam Follower

Bearing - Outrigger

Cam Thrust Plate

Radiator Hose - Lower (no heater)

Cylinder Head Stud - Long

Cylinder Head Stud - Short

Cylinder Head Nut

Clevis Pin - Clutch Arm Top

Clevis Pin - Clutch Arm Bottom

Primary Gear Oil Seal Protector

Diff Planet Gear Thrust

Diff Planet Gear

Oil Filter

Thermostat - 82 degree

Water Pump - no by-pass

VRS (Head) Gasket Set

Gearbox Bearing Kit

Diff Bearing

Rocker Cover Grommets - Neoprene

Duplex Timing Gear - Crank

Primary Gear suit 998 / 1100

Cooling Fan - 6 Blade Export

Duplex Timing Chian

Radiator - 4 Core type

Dipstick (with seals)

Selector Fork - 1st / 2nd Rod Shift

Duplex Timing Gear - Cam

Dipstick Tube - Metal

Carb Spindle suit HS2

Carb Butterfly suit HS2

Extractors

Bush - Engine Steady

Bush - Throttle Spindle suit HS2

Filter - Air - early

Carb Kit - HS2

Centre Oil Pick-up

Gearbox Gasket Set - Rod Shift

Anti-leak Kit (Gearbox)

Manifold Stud

Valve Stem Seals

Valve Springs

Oil Way Screwed Plugs (Block)

Oil Way Screwed Plug (Head)

Valve Guides - Cast Iron

VRS Gasket Kit (Head Gasket Set)

Engine Gasket Set

Conversion Gasket Set

Misc Nuts, bolts, washers etc

Oil Filler Cap - Vented

Rocker Cover Nut

Rocker Cover Spacer

Rocker Cover Washer

Cam Key - Off-set - 6 deg

Lower Radiator Hose - With Heater

Top Radiator Hose - 998 / 1100

Radiator Cap - Blanking Type

Clutch Kit

Clutch Arm Push Rod

Clutch Return Spring Anchor Bracket

Carb Spring - 'Red'

Radiator Cowl Grommet

Radiator Cowl Bolt

Oil Pressure Switch

Speedo Drive Seal

Spring - Synchro Hub

Screw - Engine Plate to Bearing Cap

Clutch Slave Return Spring

Clutch Master Cylinder

  'R' Clip for Clevis Pin

Accelerator Cable

CV Boot - outboard

[Guess-Works.com]

Unless you're just going to rebuild it from the bottom up then the rule is...

 

Don't fix what aint broke.

 

If the engine is running fine, and not blowing oil out the back then leave it asis, as soon as you start removing main caps and big ends then you may as well rebuild the unit which WILL, unless you are very very lucky, involve crank regrinds, engine block machining, valve seats etc, and take what could be a sub 1k refresh to the 2.5k rebuild, the last thing you want to be doing is spending money getting things, just in tolerance, only for it to need doing again a couple of years down the line.

[Fossy313]

Cheers guys, the reason why I'm looking I to it is because it is blowing oil out the back and I'm finding when I blip the throttle it's not far off stalling until the revs pick up again, it's just about to do 50,000, I guess it's probably a case of waiting and measuring and finding out.

[Guess-Works.com]

If you can, try and diagnose the oil source before pulling the engine apart, may turn out to be valve stem seals which is a seriously cheaper fix than a bottom end rebuild

[Fossy313]

I had a new cylinder head in the past 6 months and it's been the same since then, I know they MPIs fuelling never was great and it may just be running rich.

I think the main thing I can do is just have a look when the engine comes out for the gearbox, have a look at the running clearances and diameters and see if they are in tollerences, As with anything I'm learning as I go and if I don't try I will never know.

I wouldn't be doing any of this in the first place but being as though the gearbox is on its last legs the engine is out and I'm putting the cam and chain in I'm going to have to take a look anyway really. I was more of the opinion if it was almost like a service and it was worth changing the bearings and thrust washers if it was out anyway but I shall check the clearances, end float and measure the crank diameters up and see where I go from there.

I think half the problem is I'm trying to find problems wrong with the mini before I have even taken it apart.

[gazza82]

I'd probably fit a duplex chain set if I was changing the cam and followers.