30 replies to this topic

[matt050990]

Hey all,

 

Currently in the process of replacing thermostat and coolant bits and bobs,

Had a mate over the other night and when removing the thermostat housing he sheared one of the studs off!

It managed to snap off completely flush with the top of the head and there is no chance of manageing to get it out easily.

The stud that is snapped it the one of the right hand side that is also used for the radiator mounting. The other 2 studs are fine and ill be able to get a nice tight grip on the thermostat housing with them.

 

 

Now here is the stupid question but it got me thinking.....

 

Would just them 2 studs be enough to stop the housing from leaking coolant everywhere? Was going to put some liquid gasket sealant around it to help with a nice seal but would it be okay with just the 2 studs rather than the intended 3?

 

Failing the above any ideas on how to get the remains of the stud out? There is pretty much nothing to get hold of to remove it. Would it be okay to drill it out?

 

 

Don't be too mean with your responses, its an idea that popped into my head.

 

 

Much ta

Matt

Edited by matt050990, 16 April 2015 - 09:33 AM.

[Carlos W]

It's not going to pull down square with only 2 bolts. It really needs 3.

 

Is it completely flush?

 

What about putting a nut on the top and filling the hole with weld then seeing if you can unscrew it?

[Cooperman]

If it is flush with the block DO NOT attempt to use an 'Easy-Out' to remove it as the easy-Out' will probably snap and then you'll be in trouble.

Buy a 5/16" UNF Heli-Coil kit (on-line from Namrick). I think their kits are called 'Re-Coil', but they are the same.

What you do is use a centre punch to make a point in the top of the stud. Get a 1/4" drill and drill down as vertically as possible.

Then drill out with the drill supplied in the Heli-Coil kit, tap the hole, fit the Heli-Coil followed by a new stud.

The job has then been done properly and not bodged.

[Mini Manannán]

If you're lucky the stud will spin out when you drill it and you won't need a helicoil

[Steve220]

If you're lucky the stud will spin out when you drill it and you won't need a helicoil

He's going to have to get a lottery ticket the next day is it spins out whilst drilling. The other option is to weld a nut to the top of it and try and remove undo it. I find with the intense amount of heat you use during the welding it's enough to break the corrosive bond the stud and the head have and it comes undone with a bit of force.

[KernowCooper]

The trouble with easy outs as Cooperman pointed out is there are poor quality ones and good quality ones, I've had mine 30years and never broke one, what about some left hand drill bits they can bring some studs out which are not badly rusted if you keep reducing the broken bolt.

Edited by KernowCooper, 16 April 2015 - 11:30 AM.

[matt050990]

Thought about welding a nut to the top but there isn't anything to get a nice joint with. Plus I cant weld   

Looking online and it says to drill it out and use a stud extractor to get it out?

If it cant be shifted it is best to look for a new head rather than trying to 'bodge' something to fit it?

[nicklouse]

ok this no good for you now but might help others and will give you something to think on when you come to refit.

 

studs and nuts are a better fastening device here than bolts. generally you can get the nuts off fine. then release agent (Plus Gas) can be used or the thermostate housing hit or cut away. alowing better access to the stuck stud ( or ot can be just left in there ).

 

the amount of contact between housing and stud/bolt is great and this is the area where most amout of issues happen.

 

the main reason is we no longer change our thermostats from summer to winter versions.

[dklawson]

Kernow is correct that the right tools used properly will get the job done.  However, for most people who don't use EZ-outs regularly, the cost of a quality set (Snap-On or similar) is prohibitive and we end up with lesser, more fragile screw extractors that break and make the situation worse.

 

As an extension of the "drill out" method mentioned above by Cooperman and Mini Manannán, I offer one additional bit of advice.  Search for a supplier who sells "left hand" drill bits and buy a set.  Use them in a hand drill running in reverse.  After center punching, use penetrating oil and the LH drill bits in progressively larger sizes.  In many instances, as the hole is enlarged and the forces binding the threads are relieved, what's left of the broken stud/bolt will back out of the hole, stuck to the drill bit.  If it doesn't come out with the LH drill bits you have lost nothing and can proceed with the HeliCoil.

 

EDIT:

 

Looking online and it says to drill it out and use a stud extractor to get it out?

 

 

No.  When the bolt/stud is broken off flush or below flush, what those online sources are calling a stud extractor is not a stud extractor but an EZ-Out.  Stud extractors typically are various types of devices that grip the outside diameter of a broken bolt/stud (exposed above the surface) with a cam action so you can use the leverage of a large wrench to both grab the broken part and spin it out.  Obviously this is not applicable to something broken off flush.

 

Follow the advice of Cooperman and  Manannán.

Edited by dklawson, 16 April 2015 - 11:41 AM.

[matt050990]

Thanks for all the feed back lads!

 

Much appreciated.

[Deathrow]

 

Well worth a watch before you start thinking about helicoils and the like. Might work, might not!

[Mini Manannán]

If you're lucky the stud will spin out when you drill it and you won't need a helicoil

 

Sorry, should have said, left handed drill bit... 

[matt050990]

Ah good vid! Just skimmed through and like the last idea, might have to try that one.

[dklawson]

I have watched other "Eric the Car Guy" videos in the past but not the one posted above.

 

Two points I'd like to make after skimming through his video.  At 12:30 minutes into the video Eric is drilling out the broken bolt and he notices the bolt breaks loose and it starts to spin.  Had he been using LH drill bits at that point the job would have been done.  However, for the sake of the video he continues to show how to re-drill and tap the hole.

 

At 25:30 into the video he starts talking about EZ-Outs.  Please note how he cautions about their use.  He doesn't say "don't use them" but he does warn about the consequences if you break one.  During that part of the video he show a hybrid EZ-Out that includes a LH bit combined with a screw extractor.  Those are NOT the type of LH bits I mentioned above.  I propose regular LH drill bits without the screw extractor part. 

 

In the end, it's your car and your decision how to proceed.  Just be careful and work with caution to not make the situation worse.

 

EDIT:

 

Ah good vid! Just skimmed through and like the last idea, might have to try that one.

 

 

The last idea being heat or Vice Grips?  With nothing sticking up above the surface neither is an option as you describe the situation.  

Edited by dklawson, 16 April 2015 - 12:17 PM.

[Deathrow]

It's the one with the punch that I usually see him use.

He usually uses an air hammer though.