616 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

Coming along really nicely John. Quick question if you don't mind, which under-bonnet soundproofing kit have you used?


Cheers.

Thanks. It's a newton one

Cheers mate.

Looking forward to the rest of your build :)

[johnR]

managed to get some more done today - my solid mounting kit arrived so I used it to re-fit the front subbie - a right fiddle to get the rear mounts to line up but all done now.

[johnR]

Hopefully this package from CBS (with a new loom) will sort my recent electrical woes. I hope to be able to run the main loom through these two blade fuse boxes (16 wires) which I want to hide under the passenger parcel shelf together with any extra relays I need.

[johnR]

This evening I replaced the (temporary for the last 7 years!) cardboard parcel shelf with an alloy one so that I can mount a hinged plate with the new fuse boxes on it's underside.

[stuart bowes]

that's a nice idea, I've been wondering where to relocate mine to, I might have to steal that and do something similar

[johnR]

I'd be interested to hear your ideas - I'm no auto electrician, but my thought is to basically run as many wires as possible through either the new fuse boxes (probably the more critical systems and most often used such as lights etc) or the original boxes so that the individual fuses more closely match the draw and wiring capacity of their electrical components.   

[johnR]

I've removed both fuel tanks for access, then fed/pulled the old rear wiring loom out to the front. I will have it re-made with power feeds for the electric fuel pump and reversing spotlamp.

that was the (relatively) easy part - now i've got to build a mount for the new blade fuse boxes, extra relays and work out where I want the main wiring to go.

[johnR]

Finally my new rear loom has arrived from Autosparks! Not the quickest or easiest process but hopefully this will spur me to start the re-build. 

 

[johnR]

I'm finally starting to get back to the sadly neglected Mini - the 1293 engine needs an aesthetic re-fresh and the second fuel tank had developed a white powdery deposit at the base of the neck (bi-metal corrosion?) which I've ground off ready for re-painting. 

I'm hoping to install the new rear loom this evening.

[KTS]

Once you've got all cleaned up again I'd recommend giving any unpainted surfaces a coat of ACF50

I've used it liberally on my build and not had issues with surface oxidation (except on the bits I missed)

[sonscar]

I might be tempted to a new timing chain.Enjoy,Steve..

[johnR]

I might be tempted to a new timing chain.Enjoy,Steve..

It looks a lot worse than it is thankfully - I may de-rust it with a de-ox bath

[johnR]

A recent attempt to install the new rear loom resulted in this disaster(apologies for the poor picture quality but you get the idea) I can only think that the extra heavier duty wire for the fuel pump and speaker wires (which I didn't ask for) made this new loom a little thicker than the original?

I now have to replace the damaged two wires and will run the pump wire separately and hope for the best. Has anyone else had a similar experience? (turns out it was the sharp points of the self-tappers that hold the rear window catch)

Edited by johnR, 06 November 2023 - 05:55 PM.

[johnR]

I've been offered these side windows which I presume are earlier ones - does anyone know how the frames were originally secured and how I might re-secure them?

[Be87n]

Just a couple of self tappers in the B post and the same with the C post from what I recall. Although I might have gone for tiny M3 rivnuts just to aid in the serviceability of it all.

 

Edit: noticed you probably meant the frame itself around the glass since it is loose. Mine have some type of rivets holding it together.

Edited by Be87n, 10 August 2023 - 07:19 PM.