616 replies to this topic

[johnR]

Diff in, now waiting for larger primary gear and crank thrusts to progress the engine. 

Edited by johnR, 22 June 2021 - 05:55 PM.

[timmy850]

 

Good progress!

Yes, at least this time I don't have to make all the decisions about what to use or how to route things and any fettling of parts needed was done last time so it's just a straight build. Still going to be a bit (actually a lot) anxious when I turn the key this time as we were unable to pin down a reason for the failure last time. Still, lightning and twice eh?

 

 

I was thinking I needed to read back through your previous pages to remember what the previous issue was. Bit annoying you never worked it out, hopefully this one works out first time!

[johnR]

I thought I had fuel starvation as the engine kept cutting out/bogging down at @ 55mph then picking up again. It appears that in fact it was the crank/big ends binding that was causing it but I only realised that after re-doing the entire fuel delivery system when it started rumbling. But why it did it is a mystery - I had fitted a new oil pump and had good pressure and had checked the bearing clearances during the build. There was no blockage in any of the oilways. I wonder if time spent trying to discover an air leak in the inlet manifold caused a non-supportive oil film that started the degredation.  

[johnR]

The pistons are in and the engine and gearbox are now re-united - although I should have bolted the cam retainer on loosely before I did it because in the process the cam moved and I think a lifter has dropped locking it out of position. I now need to turn the whole thing the other way up so the lifter can drop back otherwise I'll have to split it again!

I sorted an annoyingly loud squeaky rattle on overrun which turned out to be the nuts that hold the gearchange bobbins to the tunnel being loose and greased up the mechanism while I was in there.

I've noticed some vagueness in the steering during higher speed cornering and the lower steering wheel spoke seems to move from 6 o'clock to 4 o'clock for straight ahead then back again. I think I'd better check the splines or the rack.

Edited by johnR, 25 July 2021 - 03:22 PM.

[johnR]

I thought I'd do a small and simple job on the 1293 engine this evening - fit the clutch casing. However it turns out not to be simple - for some reason the little roller bearing on the 1st motion shaft wont locate in it's race in the clutch case - although when I removed the bearing from the shaft it goes in the race fine! Any thoughts welcome.

[johnR]

Yesterday evening I took the car to a classic car meet at a pub near Crewkerne in Somerset. It was a lovely evening - I got to chat to a guy who used to work with John Cooper and another who rallied Cooper 'S's in major events back in the day.

On the way back however, I had an experience I don't want to repeat. As I approached a small town not far from where I live I pressed the foot operated high beam button to turn high beam off and smoke started billowing from the dash. I pulled over and turned the ignition off but the smoke continued to fill the car and I had to abandon ship. Luckily the smoke began to die down and I didn't lose the car. The hazards still worked and I was able to get a tow the short distance home.

I will be giving serious thought to getting a fire extinguisher and now have some extensive re-wiring to do!

 

Edited by johnR, 08 August 2021 - 11:13 AM.

[johnR]

Did a bit more work on the 1293 engine - or tried to...I offered up the clutch case but it wouldn't quite mate with the engine block - something was stopping it going on the last 10mm at the bottom. A process of elimination showed that it was the primary motion roller bearing not going into it's race in the cover. I wiggled it, span the bearing, took the bearing off to check it would go into the race, which it did, put it back on the shaft, greased it all to no avail then ran out of ideas and patience. I knew it was a bad idea but I tried tightening the nuts - there was an ominous crack! I'd broken the bearing - could have been worse, it might have damaged the case but that was fine thank god. Ordered a new bearing and race. I never had any luck just heating the casing to remove the race, I find the best technique to be running weld around the inside of the race, letting it cool which loosens it, then using the biggest blind puller that came with my slide hammer and jamming that in with a big screwdriver because it's not big enough, then slide-hammering it out.

With the new race installed I also tapped the end of the shaft up in case it was misaligned and the cover slid on without any fuss.  I've bolted it on before it changes it's mind and screwed the cylinder head studs in place.  I really need to take the 998 out of the Mini now to remove the lightened clutch, timing chain tensioner and some other components that I now need. That will also allow better access to the frazzled wiring loom and the slack steering rack.

Meanwhile I'm waiting for my Ebay HS4s to arrive so I can start re-furbing those.

[johnR]

A pair of HS4s came up at a reasonable price on Ebay so I'll refurbish them ready for when the engine is finished, wiring repaired and steering sorted!

[KTS]

 I find the best technique to be running weld around the inside of the race, letting it cool which loosens it, then using the biggest blind puller that came with my slide hammer and jamming that in with a big screwdriver because it's not big enough, then slide-hammering it out.

 

 

i like Nicklouse's hydraulic method for getting these out - fill the cavity with grease then using a drift (..a reversed socket IIRC..) just small enough to fit within the bearing, drive down on the grease to drive the bearing out.  there's a thread on here somewhere with the details...

[johnR]

carbs stripped down ready for the bodies and float chambers to be vapour blasted, I'll have the rest of the bits zinc plated. I also made some grub screws to blank off the HS2 stud holes in my twin carb manifold - anyone who's read my blog may remember the problems the redundant hs4 holes caused when I first fitted the HS2s!

Edited by johnR, 03 September 2021 - 08:10 AM.

[johnR]

Had the bodies and float chambers vapour blasted this morning - much better!

[johnR]

Twin HS4 re-build kit ordered and 2 hours of sanding and polishing - just got the other one to do now!

Edited by johnR, 12 September 2021 - 02:22 PM.

[johnR]

I've been busy working for a while but had some time in the garage today. I removed the brake master and servo and disconnected the lower engine steady, so now there's only the exhaust headers to take off and the 998 can be lifted out. I've also given the 1 1/2" twin carb parts a dunk in concentrated traffic film remover to de-grease them before I de-ox the rust to prepare them for re zinc-ing

[johnR]

Something else to add to the list of things to do for this winter

[jamesquintin]

that gearbox looks ace! One tip I would suggest is to pop the bolt for the gearstick steady bar in now. I forgot to do mine when it was off the car and had to take the exhaust off to give me enough clearance to slide it in!

Q