The gearbox rebuild is advancing with the gears and central oil pick-up in place. Waiting for a new cross pin diff and the remaining bearings to complete.
Edited by johnR, 03 January 2018 - 04:40 PM.
Posted 03 January 2018 - 04:30 PM
Edited by johnR, 03 January 2018 - 04:40 PM.
Posted 27 January 2018 - 02:47 PM
I have most of the parts now - gears are all running ok and I've taken all the remaining external nuts, bolts and cover plates for zinc plating so then I can finish the box.
I read somewhere that to replace the transfer case bearings 'heat it in the oven then bang it on a flat piece of wood and the bearings will just fall out' ..yeah, right! I heated it to 140 degrees and even with a slide hammer bearing puller it was a struggle to get the smaller one out. I haven't got a big enough extractor for the bigger one so will have to find someone who has, then I'll get the case vapour blasted and put the new bearings in.
In the meantime I've re-built the carbs - luckily only the throttle spindles were worn, not the bodies so they don't need re-bushing.
I'll pick up the completed inlet manifold on Monday and make the whole carb assembly up. The head is currently being ported so it's coming together.
Posted 27 January 2018 - 03:18 PM
great build thread
Posted 29 January 2018 - 05:14 PM
The polished dashpots look great! Still waiting to fit the twin carbs on my car.
Posted 29 January 2018 - 05:24 PM
Posted 29 January 2018 - 05:27 PM
I still like the look of the standard air filter box, but you're so right, the ram tubes really look good on twin carbs.
Posted 04 February 2018 - 07:33 PM
is that an a series block not a+?
Posted 04 February 2018 - 10:04 PM
Posted 28 February 2018 - 04:39 PM
Edited by johnR, 28 February 2018 - 04:40 PM.
Posted 08 March 2018 - 02:49 PM
Edited by johnR, 08 March 2018 - 02:52 PM.
Posted 08 March 2018 - 09:33 PM
simular, if your making a gasket you can tap the edges with a small ball ended hammer to cut the paper ;)
Posted 12 March 2018 - 05:18 PM
garage tidied, engine stand adaptor re-drilled for A series rather than A+ mounting bolt (generator bracket holes in different position than alternator bracket) and block bolted on to stand. Now I discover that I haven't got my crank main bearings so need to pick those up - in the meantime I'm checking the gaps of the piston rings in the bores - presumably its more important that they're not too tight rather than being a few thou mm larger than the manual says?
Edited by johnR, 12 March 2018 - 05:19 PM.
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