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Stud Removal Tool Or Weld A Nut To Remove This?


Best Answer BusheyTrader , 28 February 2015 - 10:38 PM

I went down a slightly different route of welding the nut to the stud. I had trouble getting the nut to stay welded to the broken bolt and stay in shape to fit a spanner or socket. I reckoned the nut needed to be shallower to maximise the heat in the weld and could be torqued up with a pair of grips. I bought some steel M8 wing nuts.........

Mig at maximum setting. I placed a button of weld on top of the broken bolt then put the wing nut on top of it and welded it together. I then ran a large bead of weld across the top linking the two wings together - white hot. After several attempts where the wing nuts broke off the broken bolts, they held up and out came the bolts - simples.

One b*stard broken bolt.
256FAA58-F09E-45D2-BC33-5ED842802E0C_zps

Wing nut welded to bolt
image.jpg3_zps4nws1wfh.jpg

Waiting for the grips. Will the weld hold or Not?
image.jpg1_zpsqdhnhbdy.jpg


Bolts removed from subframes plus nuts where the weld failed.
image.jpg4_zps9wlka4dg.jpg

Adam Go to the full post


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14 replies to this topic

#1 BusheyTrader

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 01:25 PM

I've removed 1 out of 4 of the broken bolts from the rear subframe. The bolts broke either flush or just below the surface. I've drilled down the bolts about 10mm and welded a nut or washer then nut to the top of the stud. The weld isn't strong enough to stay in place before the bolt frees up on the remaining 3. I'm using the max setting on the mig and melted a couple of nuts to blobs in the process.

Any ideas on how to sort this out? I've heard of stud removal tools breaking inside. I'd rather take the subframe to a garage now than taking it with broken stud removers in the bolts.

Cheers,

Adam

256FAA58-F09E-45D2-BC33-5ED842802E0C_zps

Edited by BusheyTrader, 22 February 2015 - 01:27 PM.


#2 alex-95

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 01:32 PM

Soak them in penetrating oil ( not wd40) then try them again, you could drill down a bit and tap it and screw a bolt in then weld that to it. the heat might break the bond, try tightening them a bit first then undo it.



#3 cal844

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 01:54 PM

Give them a spray with penetrating oil and alot of heat :)

#4 Tamworthbay

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 02:05 PM

As above, plus get some halfords shock and unlock. Heat it up nice and hot and be ready to go, then spray on the shock and unlock and you should be ok. It's got me out of a few tight spots over the years.

#5 BusheyTrader

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 03:27 PM

Thanks guys, I should have said that they've have had penetrating fluid applied several times over the last week. They had the same soaking before I tried removing the bolts first time around.

Adam

#6 A-Cell

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 03:37 PM

As above, plus get some halfords shock and unlock. Heat it up nice and hot and be ready to go, then spray on the shock and unlock and you should be ok. It's got me out of a few tight spots over the years.


+1
http://www.halfords....s_phg-_-TopLink

Works for removing stubborn flywheels too

#7 dklawson

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 11:23 PM

Try everything sensible OTHER than an EZ-Out.  

 

I am an advocate for heat, penetrating oil, and finally... progressively larger left-hand drill bits run at low speed using a hand drill.

 

(Is the "shock and unlock" product a freeze spray?)



#8 jakejakejake1

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 11:31 PM

Another vote for left handed drill bits, they do the trick a lot of the time, but don't use EZ-outs of anything, they are more hassle and normally make things worse! 



#9 RossKnight

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 11:35 PM

Try everything sensible OTHER than an EZ-Out.  

 

I am an advocate for heat, penetrating oil, and finally... progressively larger left-hand drill bits run at low speed using a hand drill.

 

(Is the "shock and unlock" product a freeze spray?)

Yep, with a penetrating agent too. It's about the only product our 'halfords' stores stock that's actually good!



#10 BusheyTrader

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 07:22 PM

Thanks guys, does this qualify as an easy out?

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item58a535ebb1

If so, I'd be looking for something smaller than this example.....

Adam

#11 dklawson

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:58 PM

Thankfully no, that is not an EZ-Out.

 

I have no experience with that style of extraction tool but I have seen them advertised before.  If I am looking at the tool correctly, it is a left-hand drill bit with a spirally fluted shank behind the cutting face.  I presume that it cores the broken fastener and then the spiral flutes catch in the hole to back the broken stud/bolt out.



#12 gazza82

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:59 PM

That's a sort of left-handed drill bit ...

#13 peter-b

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 09:13 PM

Snap on make two types of stud extractors, both work brilliant. Thing is you need to break bond before any will work. The best way is heat, then spray it with WD40 type lube. There is no quick fix magic bullet, sorry. 



#14 BusheyTrader

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Posted 28 February 2015 - 10:38 PM   Best Answer

I went down a slightly different route of welding the nut to the stud. I had trouble getting the nut to stay welded to the broken bolt and stay in shape to fit a spanner or socket. I reckoned the nut needed to be shallower to maximise the heat in the weld and could be torqued up with a pair of grips. I bought some steel M8 wing nuts.........

Mig at maximum setting. I placed a button of weld on top of the broken bolt then put the wing nut on top of it and welded it together. I then ran a large bead of weld across the top linking the two wings together - white hot. After several attempts where the wing nuts broke off the broken bolts, they held up and out came the bolts - simples.

One b*stard broken bolt.
256FAA58-F09E-45D2-BC33-5ED842802E0C_zps

Wing nut welded to bolt
image.jpg3_zps4nws1wfh.jpg

Waiting for the grips. Will the weld hold or Not?
image.jpg1_zpsqdhnhbdy.jpg


Bolts removed from subframes plus nuts where the weld failed.
image.jpg4_zps9wlka4dg.jpg

Adam

Edited by BusheyTrader, 28 February 2015 - 10:42 PM.


#15 xrocketengineer

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Posted 01 March 2015 - 12:33 AM

Good job!






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