10 replies to this topic

[BusheyTrader]

Guys,

At least one of the upper suspension arms on Spike is seized. There's an absence of grease at either end of the pin or grease nipple so it looks like it was neglected towards the end of his time on the road. It's the hardest grease nipple to get to when servicing so this was probably why. Every other other grease point was stuffed full of it.

Can the upper arm be saved or is it immediately written off? I'd expect so as the roller bearings need a perfect surface but would appreciate the nod from someone before I start attacking things with a cutting disc to remove them from the subframe.

Adam

[Carlos W]

Take the bleed nipple out and fill the arm with proper penetrating fluid if you want to save it.

Leave it to soak for a while, Then remove the diamond plate, loosen the nut at the other end and work the bar backwards and forwards with a persuading stick.

The rebuild kit isn't that expensive but the bearings are fiddly to get out

[Almond-1]

As Carlos has said. If you have adjustable suspension then not too bad to change now. If Not then try to re grease after using the releasing oil, as a short term measure.

[Carlos W]

Can the upper arm be saved or is it immediately written off? I'd expect so as the roller bearings need a perfect surface

 

The bearings don't roll on the surface of the arm, they're kind of enclosed

 

Excuse the bolt, I welded it on to remove the bearing

 

[BusheyTrader]

Got it. -Thanks

A picture on the net showed the bearing as an open cage item not enclosed.

[Tamworthbay]

The arms will most likely be fine but I would be looking at changing the bearings out. The kits aren't expensive, about £15 I think, and take about three hours a side including removing the arm if you haven't done one before. You will need a cone compressor though. And still fill with penetrating fluid as Carlos says as you need that pin nice and free.

[dklawson]

As above, the bearings and shaft will need replacing but the arms are likely fine.

 

All the above information about penetrating oil is good.  In addition, do not take shortcuts thinking this will go faster.  Be sure to separate the hub assembly top ball joint from the suspension arm.  If the shafts have developed grooves from dry needle bearings you will need to manipulate the arm a bit to extract the shaft and diamond plate.  That's not easily done until after you separate the top ball joint.

[Spider]

Definitely foloow what the other guys have suggested, all good advice there.

 

If you find that they still won't budge, remove the seals if they are still there, undo and remove the Back Nut and the two bolts from the Diamond Plate. You should then (maybe with some persasion) move the Arm forward about 3 - 4 mm, the move the better. Then if you have access to a Reciprocating Saw, cut through the threaded shaft on the rear side, as close as you can to the thrust washer. You maybe able to do the same with a thin cutting disc in the grinder, I haven't tried it that way though. Then you should just be able to swing the arm out.

 

Prior to having the proper tool for removing the bearings (and I can't recommend that highly enough), I used to pick the needdles out of the bearings, then carfully grind a slot in the bearing shell with the Dremal, sometimes in two places. I never went right through though, so as to not risk damaging the tunnel. Then collapse the shell withe a screw driver and they just fall out.

 

Carlos's method is also a good one just use plenty of antisplatter.

[dklawson]

Chris, you don't happen to know Kevin Greene do you?  He's in OZ and active in the OZ Mini Forum.  He has made some rather nice pullers to extract needle bearings once the needles have been removed.  

[BusheyTrader]

Unlike the nearside arm the offside pin was drifted out of the arm quite easily. There was a dried out bit of gummy grease keeping the rust out.

I had to cut through the nearside pin with an angle grinder as nothing was budging, even with a 2 week soaking in penetrating oil. The subframe was out of the car. I can't imagine doing this with it in the car.

[BusheyTrader]

This forum is good for all the shared experience.

I used the "weld a M10 bolt inside the roller bearing" approach as per Carlos and both bearings came out easily from the upper arm.



Unfortunately the other front upper arm is only suitable for the scrapyard. Support shaft, bearing and arm are all fused together in one rusty mess. The shaft is also well off centre.



Adam

Edited by BusheyTrader, 01 June 2015 - 09:43 PM.