57 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

When I retired, just over 7 years ago I decided to build engines, mainly A-series. I built several but got fed up with folk asking how 'cheaply' I could do them. In the end I gave up as owners wanted 'cheap', rather than properly built for reliability, long life & reasonable power.

It takes many hours to do a thorough built which includes at least one 'dummy build' followed by a strip down and final machining. The parts needed list is long and for top quality parts is not cheap.

In the end I gave up as even though I was only charging between £25 & £30 per hour, many seemed to think that around 35+ hours labour for a full and professional rebuild was too much.

Now I just build engines for my friends and for myself/family. Next engine will be a 125 bhp MGB unit for my Grandson's 1971 MGB-GT. To him my labour is free  and I can take as many hours as I wish.

If so-called 'engine builders' can do a top quality job for less hours, then I would be amazed.

[Spider]

When I retired, just over 7 years ago I decided to build engines, mainly A-series. I built several but got fed up with folk asking how 'cheaply' I could do them. In the end I gave up as owners wanted 'cheap', rather than properly built for reliability, long life & reasonable power.

It takes many hours to do a thorough built which includes at least one 'dummy build' followed by a strip down and final machining. The parts needed list is long and for top quality parts is not cheap.

In the end I gave up as even though I was only charging between £25 & £30 per hour, many seemed to think that around 35+ hours labour for a full and professional rebuild was too much.

Now I just build engines for my friends and for myself/family. Next engine will be a 125 bhp MGB unit for my Grandson's 1971 MGB-GT. To him my labour is free  and I can take as many hours as I wish.

If so-called 'engine builders' can do a top quality job for less hours, then I would be amazed.

 

Absolutely.

 

It takes what it takes. I don't do too many at all these days, like yourself, for family and friends that I have gotten to know well.

 

I have been asked how long it takes me to do one and my standard answer is I don't know.

 

I did just finish a complete Power Unit, Engine, Gearbox, Clutch, Carb, Dissy, Cooling System, Exhaust and then fitted it, got it running and did a few KMs in it.   9 days, spending about 7 hours a day (though we did have one short day), so about 60 hours. That was just for 'assembly and fitting' that didn't include disassembly, inspection and machining.

 

I don't know how many I've done now, but no 2 have been the same, there's always hurdles to overcome, some are easy, some you just can't predict. For example, on that last one I did, it took us around 2 hours to fit the fan. Yeap, 4 bolts, how hard could it be!  Well, the holes were 6 mm to start with, then the blades were bent (6 blade metal fan, new BMH Item), then when fitted up with the radiator, it fouled the cowling, so we machined it back, then on the third trial fit on checking if a fan belt could be fitted, it couldn't and we had no spacers in either, so off to modify the Radiator Mounts,,,,  it all takes time......

[KernowCooper]

Awaiting the results of the oil pressure taken off the gallery with a pipe fed oil pressure gauge with interest

[racingbob]

many years ago I had a race engine that gave no oil pressure

ended up having to take out and give back

 

it was the oil oil pump gasket round the wrong way

[carbon]

Also interested to find out what grade of oil has been used

[661]

Also interested to find out what grade of oil has been used

Millers classic 20/50

[Spider]

 

Also interested to find out what grade of oil has been used

Millers classic 20/50

 

 

*** Seek the advise of the engine builder***  however, I would think you'd want something 'lighter' for a reconditioned engine to allow the rings to bed in.

[Cooperman]

That oil will not be the cause of the oil pressure issue.

[661]

That oil will not be the cause of the oil pressure issue.

Agreed.
I'll be on the scrounge today for a mechanical gauge.
I attached the original mechanical pressure switch. It goes out so I have at least 5 psi! The optional switch (22 psi I think) was then attached. That doesn't go out. I've heard of some issues with these switches but the evidence is mounting up in the wrong way.

[Cooperman]

If there is any doubt about having enough pressure to be safe, don't run it further without talking to the engine builder.

A mechanical gauge is really the only way to get the answer.

As an aside, I first got into doing engine builds in the '60's when I had a Cortina Mk.1 and a then well-known engine prep company re-built my engine twice but each time they failed to get a decent oil pressure. In the end I decided to do it myself, stripped it all down and discovered their crank grinding guy had ground 2 of the big end journals and one of the main journals slightly undersize and the builder had failed to measure it before assembling it. I took some advice from a couple of other builders and did it all myself. Bingo, over 60 psi when hot. Since then I have seen some very poor results from some builders. It can't be rushed, must be done thoroughly and measuring a LOT at all stages is vital.

[661]

Sad news.

With borrowed gauge I have 10psi at idle and 20 with a blip.

Really upset as the build had just gained momentum.

So, back to the engine builder.

This is where it may get interesting. As others have stated, you get what you pay for. In answer to an earlier asked question 'which end of the spectrum' was the price, well it's an ebayer who sells quite a few engines and had good feedback, We shall see.

Off to compose something.

[nicklouse]

Mmmm I would be getting someone who knows their stuff to strip the engine.

Was it actually a rebuilt engine? Or just one with fresh paint on it.

There are a pile of cowboys out there and Ebay is where a lot can be found. One has about 20 different names ( maybe slightly exaggerated there).

[661]

Mmmm I would be getting someone who knows their stuff to strip the engine.
Was it actually a rebuilt engine? Or just one with fresh paint on it.
There are a pile of cowboys out there and Ebay is where a lot can be found. One has about 20 different names ( maybe slightly exaggerated there).

Good question. Trouble is, unless you strip it down you don't know if the promises are correct. It should have been bored to 60 and therefore new Pistons. I paid for an SW5 and duplex and a skimmed down 202 head ,which I can see.
I too think I should get someone else to take over but that may jeopardise any recompense.
First things first I'll call him tomorrow.
I may PM you a name if I can find his ebay user name. I don't know what good it would do other any cement my depression, but I'm curious.

Edited by 661, 19 January 2015 - 09:35 PM.

[KernowCooper]

Dont strip it make the call to the builder and see what response you get, if you strip it he has a get out clause, just report the lack of oil pressure and see what his response is is my advice

[nicklouse]

Mmmm I would be getting someone who knows their stuff to strip the engine.
Was it actually a rebuilt engine? Or just one with fresh paint on it.
There are a pile of cowboys out there and Ebay is where a lot can be found. One has about 20 different names ( maybe slightly exaggerated there).

Good question. Trouble is, unless you strip it down you don't know if the promises are correct. It should have been bored to 60 and therefore new Pistons. I paid for an SW5 and duplex and a skimmed down 202 head ,which I can see.
I too think I should get someone else to take over but that may jeopardise any recompense.
First things first I'll call him tomorrow.
I may PM you a name if I can find his ebay user name. I don't know what good it would do other any cement my depression, but I'm curious.

Ok sounds a bit more of a custom build than just a recon engine. Take it up with the builder first.