57 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

I had an engine where the pressure relief valve jammed slightly open. At tickover when warm it was about 10 psi, but when revved it went right up to around 50 psi. It happened whilst the engine was already warm, so I don't know what it was at cold as I removed the plunger, cleaned it all out and it was then fine again with c.80 psi at cold tickover.

[661]

The cup /plunger and the seat have been cleaned and I even lapped it gently, still low pressure.

Off to find a mechanical gauge tomorrow. Probably difficult to get one with 1/8th fitting but I need to do that before getting stroppy with the engine builder.

[Spider]

The cup /plunger and the seat have been cleaned and I even lapped it gently, still low pressure.

Off to find a mechanical gauge tomorrow. Probably difficult to get one with 1/8th fitting but I need to do that before getting stroppy with the engine builder.

 

Yes, find another gauge and check with that for sure, however I would also suggest dropping a friendly phone call to the engine builder, just to put him in the picture and also seek his advise as it maybe his warranty you maybe claiming on. If you do something without or against his advise, then you may well end up being on your own.

 

<edit: you never know, he may have a gauge that you could borrow>

Edited by Moke Spider, 16 January 2015 - 08:11 PM.

[carbon]

661,

 

I would look carefully at anything in your engine build that is even slightly non-standard in case this is a problem.

 

For example, check the flexi pipe between the block main outlet and the oil filter. Does it have any possible restrictions either through the hose or where it joins at either end. Is there anything else non-standard?

 

And what grade of oil are you using?

[Cooperman]

Having built a lot of A-Series engines, I always wonder about the capabilities of some builders. I have seen some horror stories, like a 1380 which blew oil out because the bores were, on average 0.005" too large and the bores were not offset. That scrapped the block, but how could an engine builder get it that wrong. Even if someone else did the boring, surely a capable builder would have spotted that at the 'dummy build' stage.

The 'dummy build' should check all the bearing clearances and make sure all will be well.

Do the check with the gauge, but talk to the builder in case he wants to come along and do the start-up with you to establish what, if anything, is wrong..

[MiniMoe2008]

I've never built an engine (for a vehicle) but if I paid a good amount of money for it, I would return it and ask for them to repair it and get it running.

[661]

 

The cup /plunger and the seat have been cleaned and I even lapped it gently, still low pressure.

Off to find a mechanical gauge tomorrow. Probably difficult to get one with 1/8th fitting but I need to do that before getting stroppy with the engine builder.

 

Yes, find another gauge and check with that for sure, however I would also suggest dropping a friendly phone call to the engine builder, just to put him in the picture and also seek his advise as it maybe his warranty you maybe claiming on. If you do something without or against his advise, then you may well end up being on your own.

 

<edit: you never know, he may have a gauge that you could borrow>

 

All good advice.

The 'stroppy' should have read 'constructive', but it's been a troubling day.

I really can't imagine that the flexi-pipe would be the issue, but you are correct to suggest all alternatives. I have a sandwich plate on the filter housing to allow an auxiliary oil temp gauge so the original pipe may not fit or require a bit of bending. All worth a try .

[nicklouse]

But as the pressure guage and valve are before the pipe it has no effect.

Well little unless you have oil on the floor.

What you have to consider is that close tolerances in the build is what allows the pump to create pressure.

The oil pressure relief valve stops these going too high like a blow off valve. So stuck open no or low pressure. If it is fine then you have issues in bearing sizes allowing to much oil to pass.

Or you issue is before or is the pump. Before the pump you have two gaskets and one O ring these can allow air in reducing the ability to suck oil. You can also have issues with the pump leaking. You can also have issues with the oil pick up pipe fracturing.

So have a look at how much you put together. And what you paid for.

Was it a here it is drop it in and of you go (engine and box) Or was is a short motor or short and head or....

[Cooperman]

One might be forgiven for wondering if the 'engine builder' actually fitted a new oil pump and if the crankshaft was re-ground. I guess I'm getting cynical with old age, but I have seen many things with so-called engine builders over the years.

I had a 1275 'S' brougnt to me which had a 'Downton' engine. the only thing Downton was the sticker on the rocker cover. Another time, I had an engine brought to me which was said to be to 'S' specification. It had an 11-stud head, but it had the low comp 21251 pistons sitting over 0.070" down the block from the deck so the combustion volume was about 7 cc too big, giving a very low comp ratio. Then I looked at the head and it had only 33 mm inlet valves, etc., etc.; no wonder it was gutless.

Who knows what the engine builder didn't do properly if an engine fails to pick up to pressure at initial start-up.

Sorry to be a bit negative here.

[nicklouse]

Being a cynic is a good thing. Seen way too many people who have been ripped of with recon engines. Con being the word. Adding a coat of paint is not rebuilding an engine.

[Spider]

 

All good advice.

 

The 'stroppy' should have read 'constructive', but it's been a troubling day.

 

 

Bhahahahaha,,,, that's just a normal day around here

 

But as the pressure guage and valve are before the pipe it has no effect.
 

 

Respectfully Nick, the gauge port is on the Main Oil Gallery, which is after the pipe (and Oil Filter).

[Spider]

One might be forgiven for wondering if the 'engine builder' actually fitted a new oil pump and if the crankshaft was re-ground. I guess I'm getting cynical with old age, but I have seen many things with so-called engine builders over the years.

I had a 1275 'S' brougnt to me which had a 'Downton' engine. the only thing Downton was the sticker on the rocker cover. Another time, I had an engine brought to me which was said to be to 'S' specification. It had an 11-stud head, but it had the low comp 21251 pistons sitting over 0.070" down the block from the deck so the combustion volume was about 7 cc too big, giving a very low comp ratio. Then I looked at the head and it had only 33 mm inlet valves, etc., etc.; no wonder it was gutless.

Who knows what the engine builder didn't do properly if an engine fails to pick up to pressure at initial start-up.

Sorry to be a bit negative here.

 

I'd not like this to turn in to a 'bash the engine man' thread, however, you have bought home some VERY good points, as the saying goes;-

 

"if you want something done right, do it yourself"

[nicklouse]

All good advice.

 

The 'stroppy' should have read 'constructive', but it's been a troubling day.

 
Bhahahahaha,,,, that's just a normal day around here
 

But as the pressure guage and valve are before the pipe it has no effect.

 
Respectfully Nick, the gauge port is on the Main Oil Gallery, which is after the pipe (and Oil Filter).

Thanks for the correction. Been a while since I have needed to think oil ways. And mine is all upside down anyway. With the filter before the pump. ;)

[nicklouse]

But, as it is still pressure side. It would still manifest its self on the floor.

[coopdog]

Was the engine on the cheap side of prices? Or about right? Might give you an idea if he's cut any corners?