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2000 Cooper Sportspack Turbo


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#826 Steve220

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Posted 13 September 2023 - 11:20 AM

Really nice work you are doing. It is fun to follow. I would most likely have had your ambition level it I could find the time.....

- What ECU do you use?
- What controls the centre display? (I guess you cannot feed it directly from the ECU)


Thank you! It's covered earlier in the thread, but its a Haltech Elite 1500, the CAN controls the display so has live data directly from the ecu.

#827 Java_Green

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Posted 13 September 2023 - 12:27 PM

 

Really nice work you are doing. It is fun to follow. I would most likely have had your ambition level it I could find the time.....

- What ECU do you use?
- What controls the centre display? (I guess you cannot feed it directly from the ECU)


Thank you! It's covered earlier in the thread, but its a Haltech Elite 1500, the CAN controls the display so has live data directly from the ecu.

 

What kind of display is it that you are using and how do you sort out signals of interest from the CANBUS. I am into doing this myself but my thought was to have an Arduino or Rpi for processing the CANBUS signal and pick out the information of interest.



#828 Steve220

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Posted 13 September 2023 - 01:40 PM

I didn't make it. A good mate of mine makes random stuff like this in his space-time for fun 😄 Problem is, haltech have very cryptic coding for their CAN devices, so needed some thought on ways for the ecu to send info and the display to translate it.

#829 Steve220

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Posted 22 April 2024 - 08:59 AM

This is due a serious update! So, got the wiring completed and tested, thankfully all worked and no burning smells! New inlet manifold and charge pipe arrived, so got those installed, and buttoned up the last parts.

 

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Went for turn over for oil pressure and it took ages - like almost 5 minutes to get anything. I was using the KAD race pump, which i found out after is thinner than the OEM pump, so flow is much less! Due to the oil jets and oil fed drop gear idler, i opted for a Turbo Pump and zero-toleranced it myself. Got it installed and got almost immediate pressure of 90psi! Perfect. Then pushed her out for the first proper wash/decontaminate in 2 years.

 

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Timed the igntion in on the ECU and went for first start. Fuelling took a while to get right as it was a blank map, but soon got it fired up and idling at 2k rpm for cam knock in. All went well and drained the oil immediately after. Created a base map and took her for a drive to run the engine in. This all went well until i started getting coolant temps around 120c!!! Pulled over and coolant was everywhere in the engine bay, i couldn't see where it was coming from so tried to limp her home. Got about a mile down the road and the temps shot up to 130c so shut the engine off and coasted into a layby. Found that the cork gaskets for the thermostat housing had failed :( Ditched the gaskets, put rtv between the parts, topped up the coolant and got her home (oddly, coolant never went above 92c on the way back!).

 

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Moving on, I fit new paper gaskets, cleaned the engine bay and did some more running in. Took her to Mahker for a new 2.25" stainless system and mapping! The car ran perfectly and was making some good power! Made 112bhp / 123lbft at 6psi (actuator pressure). We started to move the RPM and boost up, making 137bhp / 153lbft at 10psi but then got ignition break up over 5500rpm. Tried new plugs, coil pack, changing the coil dwell times, but nothing cured it, so concentrated on off boost mapping and idle control. Turned out the MPi ignition pack and Bosch ignitor just aren't up to the job so instead went for a smart coil pack which has now cured the issue! Had to make a custom mount, which, for an initial go, i'm quite proud of! :D

 

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Fit the Haltech CAN keypad, so now i have antilag, launch control, boost settings, fan override and cruise control at my finger tips!! Yes... cruise control!!!

 

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And thats where she stands to date. I'm slowly mapping the car psi by psi from 10. Basically increasing the boost control duty slowly until i reach my target, logging several pulls, adding a bit of timing until it gets close to knock threshold and then repeating. I'm at 16psi currently and it pulls like a train! Definately the fastest shes ever been. Booked in at Himley Hall, so anyone going, please come say hi!

 

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#830 IronmanG

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Posted 22 April 2024 - 04:45 PM

Great work. What compression ratio are you running?

#831 Steve220

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Posted 22 April 2024 - 04:53 PM

Great work. What compression ratio are you running?


Thanks chap! 8.6:1

#832 jamesquintin

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Posted 23 April 2024 - 01:04 PM

looks great! Won't be finished until there is an alternator sticker on there... ;)

Q



#833 Steve220

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Posted 23 April 2024 - 06:42 PM

looks great! Won't be finished until there is an alternator sticker on there... ;)
Q


I need a lot of little things to sort the engine bay first 🤣

#834 mini13

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 08:34 AM

Ah.... thats interestng..... Ive currently got the KAD pump on my turbo 16V build... and as im just about to stick on the tranfer cover maybe i should swap it for something with more capacity....  hmmmm

 

 

 

 

Went for turn over for oil pressure and it took ages - like almost 5 minutes to get anything. I was using the KAD race pump, which i found out after is thinner than the OEM pump, so flow is much less! Due to the oil jets and oil fed drop gear idler, i opted for a Turbo Pump and zero-toleranced it myself. Got it installed and got almost immediate pressure of 90psi! Perfect. Then pushed her out for the first proper wash/decontaminate in 2 years.

 

 



#835 fokko

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 08:38 AM

Amazing build, fantastic job, looks fabulous!



#836 Steve220

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 02:47 PM


Ah.... thats interestng..... Ive currently got the KAD pump on my turbo 16V build... and as im just about to stick on the tranfer cover maybe i should swap it for something with more capacity.... hmmmm




Went for turn over for oil pressure and it took ages - like almost 5 minutes to get anything. I was using the KAD race pump, which i found out after is thinner than the OEM pump, so flow is much less! Due to the oil jets and oil fed drop gear idler, i opted for a Turbo Pump and zero-toleranced it myself. Got it installed and got almost immediate pressure of 90psi! Perfect. Then pushed her out for the first proper wash/decontaminate in 2 years.


Definitely don't use the race pump. AC dodds zero tolerance pump is more than adequate if you have just the oil take off for a turbo.

#837 mini13

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Posted 25 April 2024 - 07:19 AM

Yeah, Ive run the gambit with crap pumps in the past, and like you I went with the KAD pump assuming it bust be fine as they use it with their 16v heads etc....

Like you Ive got the turbo and oil jets... then chuck the 16v K head on top of that too...

I'll drop AC a message, cheers for that.



#838 imack

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Posted 25 April 2024 - 01:37 PM

I think you'll find that ther KAD race pump and the AC Dodd zero tolerance pump start with the same base unit.
You probably need a higher capacity turbo pump.

#839 Steve220

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Posted 26 April 2024 - 09:12 AM

I think you'll find that ther KAD race pump and the AC Dodd zero tolerance pump start with the same base unit.
You probably need a higher capacity turbo pump.


Most likely. The KAD race pump is designed for higher revving engines where cavitation becomes and issue. I've got a pic somewhere of the width difference between all 3.

#840 Steve220

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Posted 23 May 2024 - 11:08 AM

Whilst mapping for 16psi, i came across an issue where by the lambda readings started to lean out a little above 5500rpm. This is where logging comes into its own! The picture below shows 4 traces - Top is the manifold pressure, middle has predicted fuel pressure (sand colour) and actual fuel pressure (light pink), and the bottom has the injector duty. What's missing is rpm. However, what it is showing is that the fuel system cannot keep up with the expected/demand, and the injectors are running at 100% duty, but demanding 120% (not actually possible). At first glance, i thought that was me out of injector, but what it actually tells you is i'm out of fuel pump! The middle trace has the actual fuel pressure bouncing, which is the diaphram trying to keep the regulator closed whilst there is a high demand, so it ends up fluttering.

 

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So the answer was to upgrade the fuel pump. Rather than potentially buy a knock off Walbro, i went for a DW200 (255LPH) pump and got that thrown in.

 

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With that sorted, went to Retroix in Bedfordshire, where i've never felt so out of place to have Felix in all the years i've owned her :lol: Managed to get some good logs whilst driving down and mapped all the way to rev limiter on 16psi of boost - Fuel pressure was fine  :shades: 

 

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We had a local classic car meet, so dug out the quick detailer and took her down for a run! Nice to catch up with a few forum members and meet some new faces!

 

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