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2000 Cooper Sportspack Turbo


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#526 Steve220

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 12:33 PM

Thanks all! Cracking on with the engine bay electrics today. I ended up just moving the fuse box to the back of the bay and shortening the wiring. Looks surprisingly good! Will get pictures once the bracket is dry from paint. Need to figure out how to activate the water pump on the charge cooler. I may get the ECU to do it and adjust the program to start it once the engine is running then for a few seconds after it shuts down.



#527 rich_959

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 01:49 PM

Looking good Steve! I may have missed it from your notes, but is your bulk head insulation the one that is being sold by ‘Smiffy’s bits’ on eBay?

#528 Steve220

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 03:27 PM

Looking good Steve! I may have missed it from your notes, but is your bulk head insulation the one that is being sold by ‘Smiffy’s bits’ on eBay?

 

No mate. Its a custom piece made for me by a friend.



#529 Steve220

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 04:29 PM

So, here we go! Still waiting for the bracket to dry - this weather's no good for rattle cans!

 

Rather than explain each pic, i'll just let you know my reasoning. The fuse box in the engine bay lives at the front on an MPi. On mine, that area is going to get busy with pipework and a charge cooler, so needed to move it. The wires were stripped back in the loom and placed next to the relays for a later date until i could work out what i was going to do. Whilst i was in the garage the other day i had a look at the original ECU/fuse bracket and thought about potentially cutting it up. So thats what I did! Rather than go down the ATO route for fuses, i kept the stock Maxi fuse set up but intend to attach it to the brake servo housing.

 

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I'm off at a seminar until the end of the week, so hopefully the last bits and pieces will turn up, the bracket will dry and I can get some power connected to it and start testing lines! Its all getting closer to first start!!



#530 jamesmpi

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 04:49 PM

Great effort Steve. Love those super clear inner wheel arches lol

#531 gadget555

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 08:16 PM

It could just be the photo but it look's like the bottom shocker bolt needs tightening up more as the threads don't look to have engaged in the Nyloc of the nut?



#532 Ben_O

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 09:06 PM

I really like that fuse box relocation idea.



#533 Itsaminithing

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 09:16 PM

I like it so much i'm going to copy it ;-)



#534 Steve220

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 10:08 PM

It could just be the photo but it look's like the bottom shocker bolt needs tightening up more as the threads don't look to have engaged in the Nyloc of the nut?


I think you maybe right! Good spot! Will check.

#535 Steve220

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 10:09 PM

I like it so much i'm going to copy it ;-)


By all means! It looks more OEM than it's original location lol

#536 AndyR

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 04:31 PM

 

I like it so much i'm going to copy it ;-)


By all means! It looks more OEM than it's original location lol

 

 

I like the idea too.  Just keep in mind you have shortened the wire.  Worth checking the potential max load on that wire with the new length - wouldn't want to have inadvertently made another fuse and all your hard work going up in smoke!

 

Andy


Edited by AndyR, 08 May 2018 - 04:32 PM.


#537 Steve220

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 09:48 PM


 

I like it so much i'm going to copy it ;-)

By all means! It looks more OEM than it's original location lol
 
 
I like the idea too.  Just keep in mind you have shortened the wire.  Worth checking the potential max load on that wire with the new length - wouldn't want to have inadvertently made another fuse and all your hard work going up in smoke!
 
Andy

The fuses are 30amp. Shortening the line would only reduce the resistance. No worries from that side, it'll work nicely!

#538 Wiggy

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 11:43 AM

Damn. You could eat your dinner off that engine bay. I'm really rather jealous!!



#539 AndyR

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 05:02 PM

 

 

 

I like it so much i'm going to copy it ;-)

By all means! It looks more OEM than it's original location lol
 
 
I like the idea too.  Just keep in mind you have shortened the wire.  Worth checking the potential max load on that wire with the new length - wouldn't want to have inadvertently made another fuse and all your hard work going up in smoke!
 
Andy

The fuses are 30amp. Shortening the line would only reduce the resistance. No worries from that side, it'll work nicely!

 

 

Right you are, never mind me.  Always opening my mouth before thinking! haha


Edited by AndyR, 09 May 2018 - 05:03 PM.


#540 Steve220

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 08:30 PM

I've hopefully sorted my electrical issues! The earth header behind the expansion tank is bloody rubbish!! Cleaned it within an inch of its life and... well, see for yourself!

 

First got the new power lead sorted, this goes from the starter motor directly to the new location of the fuse box

 

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And new earth lead to accompany the original one

 

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New specialist component turbo inlet!

 

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De-cat and front pipe arrived and lambda bung. Going wideband and it can't go in the original spot, so a new boss will need to be drilled and welded further down the pipe.

 

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My mate Dean came over and sorted the paintwork at the back where I went through it by breathing on it..

 

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So onto the electrics, went to test the circuits and managed to get most of it working after the earths were sorted. First off - dash lighting kit!

 

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And rear screen in too!

 

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Then I heard a crack and found the brake light switch in parts :(

 

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Managed to get one quite quickly (and cheaply) from ebay! Then after some careful planning, trimming and swearing, got the rear seats in!

 

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As a side note - does anyone know if these plugs connect to each other? If so, is it colour to colour?

 

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