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#46 bert998

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 01:51 PM

looking really great on the car

practical question: how do you join 2 painted area? do you overlap when you sand it?



it doesnt matter. you can paint over a section as long as its nice and smooth :(

#47 Retro_10s

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 03:24 PM

it doesnt matter. you can paint over a section as long as its nice and smooth


that would woirk... but also cause more unecessary wetsanding...

practical question: how do you join 2 painted area? do you overlap when you sand it?


do you mean what happens when I paint the rest of the car and have to join already dry paint with wet paint?...

If that's what you mean it's really quite simple.

To do it properly you just roller on the layer as usual (you could overlap the wet on to the dry slightly) and when it comes to cutting back and polishing, make sure you flat the layers back to an equal surface level before T-cutting.

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Been having a think... and I might cut out using G3 altogether. So far I have been using G3 and then T-cut.. I figured that using a heavy grade of cutting paste (G3) then The Much much finer paste (T-cut) would leave a better finish.

Not sure yet but my reasoning is that I think it (the G3) leaves some little scratches behind (it's pretty abrasive really) and i think the T-cut isn't quite man enough to get rid of the deeper ones... so next time I need to polish (which'll be the side of the car.) I'm gonna experiment with just T-cut, though I will still wetsand with 1200 before... might be creating more work for myself but we'll see how it comes out.

Edited by Retro_10s, 20 July 2006 - 03:25 PM.


#48 bert998

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 03:41 PM

there is always g6 and g10 :(


http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem


http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem

#49 superted87

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 10:04 PM

i assume that your being careful but what have you done in the event as always occurs when the poo fairy sprinkles her shitty dust all over your fresh surface. can you just take it back and neaten up or what??

#50 Retro_10s

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 08:47 PM

lol that only ever happens if you're painting in the completely wrong place. however, yes, you just ignore it and flat it back... however you find that because this is not being sprayed... it doesn't pick up the poo in the air on it's way to the panel... so because we're rolling on it's not a prob.

I have not had dust yet, infact I prepped some fibre glass earlier this morning and got rid of some rust... and none of the ******* (there was loads) appeared on the panel when painted!

but ideally.... you want to paint it in a polythene tent. I did have some polythene sheet right round my whole garage but it made the garage unbearably warm to work in and I didn't want sweat on my paint lol.

Bit of an update, excuse the poor picture quality... but here is the back end painted... went on real well aftyer I got the mix right, lovely sheeny smooth finish and htis is only my first coat on the back! looking good and setting rock hard! I will get proper pictures tomoz in proper daylight.

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Edited by Retro_10s, 21 July 2006 - 08:50 PM.


#51 Retro_10s

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 06:26 PM

TOP TIP and progress report.

For getting into those 'hard to reach' areas that we all have (ooo er) on our minis, Get a normal manmade bathroom sponge/carwash sponge or whatever (not natural sponge) and cut it into a a stanley knife blade shape. BINGO you can now get into all the little bits here and there where the roller might not.

For example.... that tiny little gap inbetween the rear valance lip and the the boot lip. that is sometiems there. or little corners etc! second coat on car below! wooot! going very well!

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Edited by Retro_10s, 24 July 2006 - 06:27 PM.


#52 1984mini25

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 08:03 PM

You do know you can buy kiddies foam paintbrushes, might be easer than cutting up sponges.

#53 Retro_10s

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 08:41 PM

You do know you can buy kiddies foam paintbrushes, might be easer than cutting up sponges.


Yeah, but can't for the life of me find any near where I live so... my' Carplan super wash sponge' had to go under the axe. :geek:

#54 Xiao_Bin

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 10:08 AM

any new progress on your painting? :)

#55 walks

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 06:16 PM

that looks amazing, i cant believe the shine you're getting - top job mate :)

#56 Gibbo

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:16 PM

Just to play devils advocate, and ask a silly question or 2.

Why go through the effort of applying so many really thin coats? whats the benefit?

Do you not think you could get just as good a finish with a roller and 1 or 2 thick coats and then rub that down?

Interested in your opinion really, as a mate of mine and his old man painted his mini a few years back with a roller, one coat all over done in a day and he got a pretty damn good finish, (would have been better if he'd then found the motivation to wet & dry it properly as you are, but still...) I figured the point of lots of coats was due to spray painting being thin coating by nature.

As I said playing devils advocate just because i'm interested.



It is looking great by the way, you should be chuffed!

#57 Retro_10s

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Posted 01 August 2006 - 04:17 PM

Hey dude, wouldn't be a forum if nobody asked questions!

The reason for so many thin coat is because It enables you to get a perfectly smooth finish, by layering the paint thinly and wet sanding over and over again you create a super flat surface of paint that follows the contours of the body perfectly. Which in turn means that when you polish it up, the paint does not have a 'watery ripple' effect or slight 'orange peel' look to it. Thick coats also cause things like panel rubbing on doors etc, boot lids not closing without scraping. And it would probably peel off too eventually.

Do you not think you could get just as good a finish with a roller and 1 or 2 thick coats and then rub that down?


You could try, but we're trying to get really good results so In a word, No. We may be using industrial paint, but we're not ham fisted monkeys. If you were desperate then there's nothing stopping you smacking on two thick coats apart from the following.

1. It would be very difficult To get a thick coat on without getting runs of paint.
2. A thick layer of paint will not 'sit down' on the surface you're painting, because of this you will not have a silky smooth flat surface (similar to when you put loads of margerine on bread, it's lumpy, where as a thin layer is smooth), this means when it comes to wetsanding, you will have to get rid off almost all of the paint you put on to get it flat.... which is probably why your mate didn't wet sand, because he would have had to repaint the lot to get it anywhere near smooth after smacking on a couple of generous coats.
3. A thick layer will take a long time to harden up.
4. When the final cut polish is done, the surace will look flat and glass-like if done properly, if you had put thick coats on there will be areas that stand out like looking at your reflection on the back of a spoon because of the uneven nature of the whopping great roller full of paint you applied
5. It would look absolute arse burgers... infact you might as well use wax crayons!

Welding being doen tomoz guys so I'll get some pics up of the rest of the car being painted! wooot!

#58 slyoldfox2001

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Posted 02 August 2006 - 02:05 PM

Well after reading this link and the mamoth one on minifinity over the last few weeks i have today gone and ordered my tins of rustoleum paint

2.5L of Old English White
0.75L of Jet Black
400ml spray can of Old English White.

Total price £80 incl VAT and delivery.
Should get it friday.

My clubman shell, doors, boot, bonnet will all be shotblaast over the next month and then painting will commence once all the bodywork has been repaired, replaced.
I will practice on my bonnet and boot first until I feel confident enough to move onto the shell.

I am really excited about doing my own paint job and to be honest I think I will get far more satisfaction from doing it myself as well !!!!!

I plan to create my own 1275GT restoration website so I will keep you posted.

cheers for now and thanks

#59 Retro_10s

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Posted 02 August 2006 - 02:57 PM

Excellent, good luck mate. Just finished fitting new floor in and sill section, so I'm readyto paint the rest of my car now. gotta finish prep but that will take about an hour at the most!!! wooooohoooooooooooooooooooooo!

#60 Teapot

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Posted 02 August 2006 - 04:38 PM

It's so sad ... I actually get up early some days to see if there's any more progress on this. I mean I can just about cover a wall with a roller and paint so seeing a car being done to this level of excellence is mind-boggling. OK, that's it, now I'm speechless :)




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