349 replies to this topic

[Xiao_Bin]

more to come!...........

[Mandgands]

That looks amazing, how long does it take for a coat to dry and be ready for wet sanding?

I was thinking of buying a compressor and air gun to do my respray but this looks a hell of a lot cheaper and probably easier.

Good work.

Have you thought about doing a "How To" guide, would really help a lot of us.

Cheers, Gary

[Retro_10s]

In this heat, over night is enough to let it harden enough to wetsand. Whitespirit takes a long time to evaporate.... I rushed the boot a bit.. and so i'm letting the door harden for a couple of days... will be wetsanding again tomoz.. then final coat, then wetsand, then cut and buff.

I'm currently building a 'How-to' guide for TMF so no worries, I can't really publish it til i've had enough experience doing a whole car... which wont be long now.

Application of the paint is easier than spraying and it's slightly quicker than celly i think... the basic reason for doing it is that it's rustproof paint, and it only costs 50 notes,... which will prolly do 2 minis worth. also I dont have a compressor so it's cheaper to roll on. It took a fair bit of work to get it to that shine, and I'm still not quite happy with it... but it's getting there, will post pics of finished door soon though.

Edited by Retro_10s, 17 July 2006 - 08:28 PM.

[roofless]

my dad used to harp on about how well rolled paint can be on cars - maybe the old bugger was right after all. He alos used to say you had to heat the paint up before using by immersing in boiling water - does your stuff need this?

[Mandgands]

He alos used to say you had to heat the paint up before using by immersing in boiling water - does your stuff need this?

I heard that about roller painting in the olden days. The paint was heated to make it more viscous, meaning it was easier to put a thin layer on. Thinners is used these days to get the same effect.

Retro 10s - What primer did you use? Looking forward to seeing the end result mate, i think a few people will be using this method when they see your boot lid.

[TWICEmonkey]

Great Googly Moogly, that's like a freakin mirror, that finish!!!

Thank, dear god, thank you...you have saved me a lot of money!!!

I'd seen the other posts about this, but was hesitant in the finish...now I know that, with some elbow grease, this is gonna help me to no end.

Cheers for sharing this mate! It looks feakin awesome

He also used to say you had to heat the paint up before using by immersing in boiling water - does your stuff need this?

Your dad probably rolled on two-pack as that needs heating up before you apply it to your car...when tey spray it, they do it in a garage-sized oven

Edited by TWICEmonkey, 18 July 2006 - 11:14 AM.

[Retro_10s]

Rustoleum does not need heating... and yeah, you're dad was right about the quality... remember though... the end result will be an exact indicator of the time and effort you take to do this... rush it and it'll look C**p.

I have not used any primer, if your car has paint anyway, just flat it back well and this is fine, this paint can even go on bare metal... which most of my car is..... with patches of old paint and primer feathered in lol. old colour does not show through.

I really appreciate all the comment you guys are making, I hope to catch up with you all at some shows soon when my Clubby is up and runnning again.

Well.... here's the Door with its 6th and final coat of paint on. I'm going to let this dry and harden fully for a couple of days before cutting it back with G3, and then T-cut (G3 is far to harsh on its own)


To bide the time letting the door dry I'm gonna (big breathe) paint the back end of the car... fingers crossed.

Attached Files

•  Doorfinalcoat.JPG   22.02K   138 downloads

Edited by Retro_10s, 19 July 2006 - 09:02 AM.

[Clubby1275GT]

couldnt be happier for ya mate, it looks amazing, couple of questions with regards to it though, how are you going to do the small patches?
like around the window, in the roof gutter etc? how do u get a roller in the small gaps?

[Retro_10s]

around the window is quite easy to get in with a roller mate!

I have a vinyl roof so the gutter isn't going to be painted.

just off to wetsand the door and then buff it up! pics to come!! also painted the N/S back half of the mini today... wooooo.

[Retro_10s]

Couple of pics for you taken today, 1st coat is done on the back of the mini Nearside.

And the door is done. (apart from waxing it) I used G3 and then T-cut... I think I'm might look for something even finer than T-cut.. dunno. Very nice shine I reckon. WHat do you guys think?>

Attached Files

•  DOORdonenotpolished.JPG   29.72K   201 downloads
•  1stcoatminiside.JPG   14.65K   0 downloads

[deanymini]

looking good! are you going to add any laquer? sorry if this question has already been asked

[Retro_10s]

looking good! are you going to add any laquer? sorry if this question has already been asked

There's no need for laquer on this paint dude. Although rustoleum do make a laquer that is compatible with their entire range of paints, and some people have spoken about it... as yet (on all forums, like this one, minifinity one, volkszone one and the mopar one) no one has bothered.

[Wiggy]

Man, that looks the Shizz. I'm really impressed.

Your the first person I've read that has taken some useful photos, so people can actually see what the finish is really like.

Big respect.

[Retro_10s]

Your the first person I've read that has taken some useful photos, so people can actually see what the finish is really like.

Big respect.

Cheers Wig! I'm glad you find the pics useful... I took them with that in mind. anyway... progress wise.., I've wanged on the second coat on the rear quarter, wenton fine, no runs and stuck real fast to a vertical surface.

sorted the welding on the front too so I can get painting the whole car a layer at a time in the next few weeks. About 2 weeks i think.

[Xiao_Bin]

looking really great on the car

practical question: how do you join 2 painted area? do you overlap when you sand it?