Roller painting mini started!
#226
Posted 15 January 2007 - 06:55 PM
#227
Posted 15 January 2007 - 09:59 PM
white spirit
rollers
G3
T cut (would autoglem work here?) Yes... probably better.
1200 sand paper. No. WET AND DRY, 800, 1200, 1500.
did you use a lacquers? No but there is one available
thanks
#228
Posted 16 January 2007 - 11:59 AM
paint
white spirit
rollers
G3
T cut (would autoglem work here?) Yes... probably better.
1200 sand paper. No. WET AND DRY, 800, 1200, 1500.
did you use a lacquers? No but there is one available
thanks
cheers retro_10s
#229
Posted 16 January 2007 - 11:59 AM
You also need a Mini to paint
sorted that one out
#230
Posted 16 January 2007 - 12:03 PM
#231
Posted 21 January 2007 - 05:15 PM
Few Q's
At what point does the paint block out the surface beneath?
At the mo I’m using a 20% white sprit, 80% paint is this right?
And lastly not only have I had a visit from the poo fairy sprinkling her magic dust, but also even after leaving the first layer for 3 whole days to harden, some areas have wrinkled and reacted with the previous coat, even after a through degreasing with white sprit and wiped dry. But what I can’t get is, why in some areas and not in others?
#232
Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:20 PM
Firstly my paint has arrived and have had a go at rollering the areas that fcuked with rattle cans.
Few Q's
At what point does the paint block out the surface beneath?
At the mo I’m using a 20% white sprit, 80% paint is this right?
And lastly not only have I had a visit from the poo fairy sprinkling her magic dust, but also even after leaving the first layer for 3 whole days to harden, some areas have wrinkled and reacted with the previous coat, even after a through degreasing with white sprit and wiped dry. But what I can’t get is, why in some areas and not in others?
I find if you're doing it properly it blocks the underneath out completely around the 2nd-3rd layer...
Not sure about the wrinkling, sounds like the layers are too thick, causing the top to set but the previous layer still soft, But did you de-grease the rollers and tray before using them?... did you use any silicone based polish ever in the surrounding areas?.... also how hot/cold is your garage.... if it's been below 5 degrees in there since the paint was applied it could be problem..
#233
Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:23 PM
am having poo fairy problems too, so am taking measures. i bought a pack of six cheap 2m wooden battens, which i am fastening to the walls and roof of the garage. i have also bought 4, 12ft square polythese dust sheets. these i am going to staple to the battens to line the garage and hopefully make it rust proof
#234
Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:24 PM
#235
Posted 21 January 2007 - 07:48 PM
I find if you're doing it properly it blocks the underneath out completely around the 2nd-3rd layer...
Not sure about the wrinkling, sounds like the layers are too thick, causing the top to set but the previous layer still soft, But did you de-grease the rollers and tray before using them?... did you use any silicone based polish ever in the surrounding areas?.... also how hot/cold is your garage.... if it's been below 5 degrees in there since the paint was applied it could be problem..
Well I’ve been using the ratio as above and loading the roller with paint and almost Squashing it all out back into the tray, as I’ve found on the test panel, too thick and the metallic pigment doesn’t settle properly and even after it’s dried you can still see the roller marks etc.
So I have actually been trying to roller it on as thinly as possible, which seams ok apart form the small areas on the front wing and rear quarter panel, the rest of the passenger side seams fine.
The tray had been rinsed out with white sprit and dried before it was put away and I was using a fresh roller head from the packet as the first one I didn’t get all the paint out and it dried up.
As for how cold it was in the garage, it seamed to be fine when I did it but it might have got too cold for the paint to harden over night?
Although I’m goanna leave it for a few days, so hopefully any areas that have wrinkled I’ll be able to sand pack and continue painting, which will also give me a chance to do what clubman katie B.F suggested and putting up some polythine sheets to hopefully eliminate any future dust issues.
#236
Posted 21 January 2007 - 10:47 PM
But this soonds temperature related
#237
Posted 22 January 2007 - 11:50 AM
Edited by Retro_10s, 22 January 2007 - 11:51 AM.
#238
Posted 22 January 2007 - 04:39 PM
aye Purple! any news 1984? It's either temp or too thick an application....
ive been on (www.rustoleum.com) and i cant seem to find a british racing green colour, ive found some simular but not the same can anyone help please
#239
Posted 22 January 2007 - 06:11 PM
Bit of both i think.aye Purple! any news 1984? It's either temp or too thick an application....
What I did to get mine tin of silver leaf is to phone Steve at avenue coatings (01753-686-888) and ask if they’ll colour match a sample of some of your existing paint, I sent off a part of one of my old doors that are now scrap.ive been on (www.rustoleum.com) and i cant seem to find a british racing green colour, ive found some simular but not the same can anyone help please
Send it off ad it should take about 4-5days if they can match it and to be sent out.
#240
Posted 25 January 2007 - 09:58 PM
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