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Welding Rust Converter


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#1 MINIMADrt

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 02:57 PM

hi all just a quick one i have removed my back panel. were it was spot welded to the bottom of the rear screen there is surface rust wear the 2 panel separate. i have cleaned this back was thinking of applying some rust converter to it 

 

then zink primer (weld thou)

 

would this weld up ok with the converter on it or is this a no go

 

thank you for the help


Edited by MINIMADrt, 14 December 2014 - 02:58 PM.


#2 Tamworthbay

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 03:00 PM

I wouldn't, I would get a powerfile or flap wheel,on a grinder and just give it a quick once over to get it back to clean metal.

#3 MINIMADrt

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 03:05 PM

I wouldn't, I would get a powerfile or flap wheel,on a grinder and just give it a quick once over to get it back to clean metal.

i have cleaned it back with a air belt sander??? looks pretty clean just thought about added protection

 

cheers for the quick reply i can go back out now lol



#4 sledgehammer

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 03:36 PM

I would clean out the rust

 

zinc prime - weld in place

 

squirt some rust cure (or waxol) thru a small hole in the boot floor (should drain into the seam)

 

hopefully it will seep into the seam & stay there



#5 Ben_O

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 04:11 PM

Good answers.

 

You don't need a rust converter and Zinc primer. Just use the Zinc primer.

 

I Can't really see the point in products such as Kurust as by far the best way of ridding the rust is to manually remove it, then it's gone.

 

Zinc primer will sacrifice itself to very slight rust in the metal and kill it off but only trace amounts.

 

I use a nylon brush wheel that goes in the drill, It will remove even the slightest traces of rust from pitted metal without thinning it any further which is ideal if the metal is slightly thinned from pitting anyway.

 

Ben



#6 MINIMADrt

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 04:17 PM

cheers all i just zinced it then made a huge mistake before hand however i will start another thread later regarding this school boy error but then again we live and learn .

 

cheers 



#7 Ethel

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 05:08 PM

Phosphate deposits from a rust converter will increase the resistance and effect the weld, but they can only form where there's rust to convert. I don't think it'd make much difference if you have the cleared back to bare metal where you are welding. Alternatively you could use an acid that creates soluble salts you can wash off - sulphuric, Nitric, Hydrochloric.



#8 MINIMADrt

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 05:09 PM

Me with any sort of acid would be dangrous I'm not the safest of people. Lol

#9 Steve8274

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 08:55 PM

 
I use a nylon brush wheel that goes in the drill, It will remove even the slightest traces of rust from pitted metal without thinning it any further which is ideal if the metal is slightly thinned from pitting anyway.
 
Ben

Hi Ben
I haven't come across these before. Just had a quick search and there are soft and stiff variants with different sizes. Which would you consider to be best?
Thanks
Steve

#10 sonikk4

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 09:02 PM

Twisted wire cup in a grinder, that removes practically anything. YOU MUST WEAR GOGGLES if you use this method.



#11 nicklouse

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 09:07 PM

Twisted wire cup in a grinder, that removes practically anything. YOU MUST WEAR GOGGLES if you use this method.


Yup. And good gloves and long sleeves.

The wires comes out of the cup in use and can be a bit painful if caught in a crease. But the soul go straight into you eyeball with no problem.

I have a scar on the inside of my wrist where a cup bounced back of the work part and burnt me through my Kevlar gloves. If I had not had the gloves on it would have polished some tendons and maybe cut some blood vessels.

The oh I will just....... Don't go there.

#12 KaneH

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 09:09 PM

Clean and strip disks work well, they're essentially nylon strands set in a resin so doesn't affect metal only removes paint/rust etc

#13 sonikk4

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 09:18 PM

 

Twisted wire cup in a grinder, that removes practically anything. YOU MUST WEAR GOGGLES if you use this method.


Yup. And good gloves and long sleeves.

The wires comes out of the cup in use and can be a bit painful if caught in a crease. But the soul go straight into you eyeball with no problem.

I have a scar on the inside of my wrist where a cup bounced back of the work part and burnt me through my Kevlar gloves. If I had not had the gloves on it would have polished some tendons and maybe cut some blood vessels.

The oh I will just....... Don't go there.

 

 

I wear heavy duty overalls when using this bit of kit along with other protection. Plus they come in various guises which means you can use them to get into most nooks and crannies. They do not remove metal either.



#14 Steve8274

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Posted 14 December 2014 - 10:50 PM

Twisted wire cup in a grinder, that removes practically anything. YOU MUST WEAR GOGGLES if you use this method.

I have the twisted metal cups but hadn't seen the nylon ones. Thought they maybe better since like you say, all the shreds of metal come off with the wire one plus Ben says it maybe better on thinner metal.

#15 Ben_O

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 09:45 AM

 

 
I use a nylon brush wheel that goes in the drill, It will remove even the slightest traces of rust from pitted metal without thinning it any further which is ideal if the metal is slightly thinned from pitting anyway.
 
Ben

Hi Ben
I haven't come across these before. Just had a quick search and there are soft and stiff variants with different sizes. Which would you consider to be best?
Thanks
Steve

 

These are the ones i use.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a369682b4

 

They last a good while and are also good at removing paint and that black transport primer/e-coat from new panels.

 

Ben






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