3 replies to this topic

[Patriot]

Any help on this would be great.

 

Just converted from Inertia to pre-engaged starter motor.

 

I've read all the forums / threads on how to use the solenoid as a marshalling point and I understand how it should be wired.

 

but there are two Spade connectors on the pre-engaged starter motor solenoid (one large & one small),

 

What function does each spade connector? and which terminal do I connect to the switched side of the wing mounted solenoid.

 

Thanks.

[dklawson]

There are several ways to wire what you have installed so others will post information that seems to conflict with my suggestion.  The different methods are not wrong, it just comes down to your preference.

 

The pre-engaged starter solenoids draw more current than the discrete (brick) solenoids.  Therefore, later cars that have the pre-engaged starters typically have a starter motor relay that your car's wiring will not have.  You can use your car's existing brick type solenoid for that purpose.  This is where the multiple methods start showing up.

 

The absolute easiest method is to take your brick solenoid's old heavy cable to the inertia starter motor and connect it to the threaded post on the pre-engaged starter motor.  Now make a jumper wire that goes between the start terminal on the pre-engaged starter's solenoid and connect the other end of that jumper wire to the threaded post on the pre-engaged starter.   What this does is allow your brick type solenoid to simultaneously power both the "start" terminal and motor windings on the pre-engaged starter.

 

You asked about the multiple terminals on the pre-engaged starter motor solenoid.  If two spade terminals are present, one will be the "start" terminal which receives 12V when you turn the key to the run position.  The other terminal will be for cars with ballast ignition systems.  It supplies 12V to the ignition coil during starting.  If your car does not have a ballast ignition system, do not use this terminal, leave it empty.  If your car has a ballast ignition system your old brick solenoid will also have 4 terminals and one of the spade terminals will have a white/yellow wire on it.  You can move the white yellow to the new starter solenoid or leave it where it is on the brick solenoid.  It will work either way.

 

Lastly you need to know on the pre-engaged solenoid which terminal is for the ballast ignition and which is for starting.  I cannot tell you by size or orientation which is which.  I always measure this with a multimeter when working with solenoids.  Set your meter to measure continuity (resistance).  Put one meter lead on the shell of the solenoid.  Take the other meter lead and place it on one spade terminal, then the other.  One terminal will show infinite resistance (open... no electrical connection), the other will have some measureable low resistance (less than 100 Ohms). The terminal where you can measure resistance is the "start" terminal that needs power when you turn the key to the start position.  The jumper wire I mentioned above goes between that terminal and the threaded post on the pre-engaged solenoid.

 

EDIT:  A short Google search located the picture below that should help.  It appears that the "smaller" spade terminal on the pre-engaged starters should be the terminal for the ballast ignition white/yellow wire.  Measure twice, cut once... check with a meter as I suggested earlier to be sure.

 

Also worth mentioning is that with the wiring scheme I suggested above, leave all the brown wires on the old solenoid.  Do not move any brown wires to the pre-engaged starter.

 

Edited by dklawson, 14 December 2014 - 05:17 PM.

[Patriot]

An excellent reply, really helpful and the exact information I need.

 

Will sort the wiring tomorrow night and see if I can get the engine turned over.

 

Many Thanks

[cal844]

Imo this post needs pinned!
My mate is doing this conversion(with my help), we are just getting the parts bought and refurb'd ready to convert in the new year :)