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Lightened Flywheel Clutch Engagement Issues


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#16 The Matt

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 12:47 PM

I don't think it needs much more than 1/2" travel, but I seem to remember that it's gone beyond hope when it gets that low. I don't think they ever reach 55mm!


I'm certain I did a guide on here about 8 or so years ago for setting up the flywheel drive straps, setting the clutch return stop and throw put stop, checking each component for fault-finding etc after having the problems I had. I know I only had a small amount of throw and that the only 'fix' for me was a new pedal shaft as it had worn badly. I just can't find the thread at all though. I will keep looking today, but it must have been in a reply to someone else or maybe it's now closed/archived. I only did it because I happened to take a load of photos as I stripped it down.

#17 Cooperman

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 01:01 PM

I have had a problem with a brand new steel lightweight flywheel. The machined taper was out of tolerance and it would not fit at the correct position on the end of the crank. Very unusual and I've only ever had it the once about 9 years ago. Might be worth checking.



#18 landsurveyor

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Posted 10 December 2014 - 09:25 PM

Thanks very much for all of the advice.

 

I have picked up a new master cylinder today to try and get a bit more movement in the arm.  I will fit it tomorrow and failing that the car is coming home without a working clutch....

 

I will post an update.

 

Thanks again.

 

Simon,



#19 Ethel

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 10:34 AM

I'm more puzzled by how you had a working Verto with a pre Verto arm.

 

If it really was Verto, have you also swapped over the flywheel nut and release bearing to pre Verto?



#20 Turbo Nick

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 05:37 PM

Extending the push rod is extreme bodgery and should be a short term fix at best. It doesn't fix the slave travel problem and with only 1/2" travel at the slave you will have a horrible clutch operation. It will either slip or drag and you won't be able to set it up to do neither, it'll be one or the other. I would suggest the problem may be lost travel in the clutch pedal clevis or bushing if it's not the master. Does the pedal rattle up and down without operating the hydraulics?

 

 

My clutch held 203lb/ft without slipping and had no dragging issues, I fail to see how this is extreme bodgery.

 

I'm just commenting from personal experience though, after having a similar problem to the OP and finding a solution to it. I'd already fitted a new slave and master, new arm, new clevis pins throughout and my backplate was machined properly to ensure proper clamping.

 

 

Some pre-verto arms were bent as standard, fitting one of those does the same thing as lengthening the push rod?



#21 Dan

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 12:05 PM

Because it ignores the actual problem and skirts round it, the actual problem will likely continue to get worse and eventually will show up again. The real problem was lost travel somewhere, and since you replaced everything else it was probably at the pedal. In either the shaft or bushes, or possibly pedal box itself. When the car was built, the clutch worked. With all its standard parts it worked, it will work again if everything is in good condition. I had the same recurring problem of disappearing clutch travel that slowly vanished every time it was adjusted and it stopped when I changed the pedal. This has come up before, there's a thread somewhere with pictures of the various clutch arms available comparing them. It shows that some of the aftermarket ones don't have enough angle between the arm and ball which causes problems for some people. Afaik the bent clutch arm was never for use in the Mini, it was from another car to solve a clearance issue under the bonnet and was possibly used with a shorter pushrod. Although I seem to remember now that when you compare the genuine bent arm to a normal arm the angles between clevis, pivot and ball are the same, the bend doesn't throw the ball out further. It's not the same as bending the standard arm.

Edited by Dan, 12 December 2014 - 12:10 PM.


#22 Ethel

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Posted 12 December 2014 - 12:44 PM

Lengthening the pushrod usually just moves the stroke of the slave to a bit that isn't worn. You might get an improvement in geometry if it also put the pushrod (and cylinder) closer to perpendicular to the arm. As far as it can see the same would apply to bending the arm, but it would actually need straightening.






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