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Workshop Hints, Tips And Tricks


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#16 alex-95

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 08:35 PM

If you have a dremel type tool and use the cutting discs, super glue the little washer things (red in the below pic) one to the screw head and one to the part. makes putting a disc on easier and you don't lose the washers.

dremel-mandrel.jpg

If you have a broken grinder take it apart and get the drive where the disc etc attaches to and you can put it in a drill, handy for getting in to tight areas where the grinder can't.

DSCF0824_zps515c3226.jpg

 



#17 Ben_O

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 04:02 PM

Like those ideas alot mate. I hate it when you drop the little red washer things..

 

I tried the second one myself and can vouch for how effective it is.

 

Here is mine...

 

P1060381_zpsbb7bd2ff.jpg

 

Just  cut the head off of a bolt and welded the threaded head off of the grinder to it.



#18 Hendred

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Posted 24 April 2015 - 06:48 AM

I always keep metal I cut of the mini, when replacing a panel the whole panel cut out isn't always all rotten, just cut the rot out and keep the good metal.  Can be used again for making things.



#19 Ben_O

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Posted 25 April 2015 - 06:44 AM

I always keep metal I cut of the mini, when replacing a panel the whole panel cut out isn't always all rotten, just cut the rot out and keep the good metal.  Can be used again for making things.

That's a good one.

 

I always keep any removed steel from the Mini in my scrap box. You will always find when fitting new panels that the new one might not have a bracket or mounting hole with it so you can always refer back to the old panel to see what goes where.

 

Just recently i had to dig out my old inner wing so that i could use the washer bottle bracket and bonnet prop bracket on the new one.

I have also saved the old wings for taking measurements for Ariel holes etc.

The old inner wing also came in handy as the new one came with too many holes pre-drilled which the old did not have so i was able to replicate the old one by welding up the unused holes.

 

Ben



#20 JonC

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 09:58 PM

Drilling holes for.clico pins, use a centre drill instead of a normal drill bit, it's easier to hold on spot and won't snap off.

#21 Minirook

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Posted 08 June 2021 - 02:28 AM

If you want your painted parts to last longer, take a propane torch to the bare metal part and watch the water evaporate out of the part. On larger pieces like a sub frame you and get the water to actually drip off the part. Once you have done this, prime it with your favorite anti rust primer and then lite sand (even etch primer)  with 400 to 600 grit paper and finish it off with a good top coat. Did my TR6 in the eighties and it looks like I finished it yesterday. Doing the same with my 78 Mini. Sorry this isn't a short cut, but its a way to make something last.

 

It appears what I was shown back in the seventies was in fact incorrect. Thanks for pointing this out Mini Mad. 


Edited by Minirook, 02 October 2024 - 04:14 PM.


#22 MiNiKiN

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Posted 02 October 2024 - 01:32 PM

If you want your painted parts to last longer, take a propane torch to the bare metal part and watch the water evaporate out of the part. On larger pieces like a sub frame you and get the water to actually drip off the part. Once you have done this, prime it with your favorite anti rust primer and then lite sand (even etch primer)  with 400 to 600 grit paper and finish it off with a good top coat. Did my TR6 in the eighties and it looks like I finished it yesterday. Doing the same with my 78 Mini. Sorry this isn't a short cut, but its a way to make something last.

This one made me chuckle :withstupid: 

The water you think is coming out of the "bare metal" in fact comes from the burning process of the propane. It is the the result of this reaction formula:

Attached File  25-36.jpg   8.71K   3 downloads

Or have you too noticed water coming out of the bare metal if heated with a heat gun ;D
 






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