9 replies to this topic

[chrscmbs]

Hello everyone,

 

Just a quick question about rust treatment...  Can anyone recommend a product or brand for the treatment of rust? Im after something that i can use after I have cleaned rust of a metal surface that will stop more rust forming once applied say like on the inside of the wheel arches for instance?

 

Is there anything you have used thats good and you would give the thumbs up to out there like this that i can apply to metal and then simply put paint directly on top of?

 

Thanks

Chris.

 

[Tamworthbay]

The best thing I have found is BIlthamber Deox C, they also do it in a gel. It's not a coverter, it's a rust remover. It leaves the surface chemically clean and rust free. I have used the hammerite rust converter and it's ok, if you want a converter then the best thing to do is find someone who can get hold of phosphoric acid but be very careful when using it.

[chrscmbs]

Hello Tamworthbay,

 

Thank you! Thats really appriciated.

 

Thanks

Chris.

[Ben_O]

A Zinc rich primer is very good on bare steel and treated steel as it prevents the formation of rust and actually sacrifices itself for traces or rust that remain in the steel.

 

I have used it on all of my treated areas and it really has stopped the rust re-forming. It's been on since January and there are no sign of any rust re-appearing.

 

The Zinc primer i use is called SAS 24. I wouldn't use anything else now 

[castafiore]

I have used Deox C to remove rust from corroded bits of my Saab restoration. It is very effective as it's a powder you add to water and if you soak the parts for a day or so the rust removal can be impressive. I have tried ordinary citric acid on it's own, which is obviously a lot cheaper, but the results weren't as good.

I have used Deox Gel too and it does work, but obviously the process takes longer. It's quite expensive so best to remove as much rust as you can with a wire cup, grinder, or Dremmel. Put the gel on at about 5mm thick - then cover with clingfilm and tape it down. You need to stop the gel dripping off the metal, and evaporating or drying before it's done the job. It may take a few goes to get right into the pitted rust.

I also use the BH Electrox primer - but only on bare metal as it would be a waste elsewhere. Again, it's not cheap butreally sticks.

A few weeks ago I bought a Black and Decker powerfile which is excellent for rust and paint removal, and gets into the fiddly corners where a grinder can't reach. It was £40 at the B and D outlet in the Lowry, Salford. However, Aldi were recently doing their own version for £29. The belts don't last long if you are sanding down welds with them, but a guy on the mig forum sells packs of 10 belts on eBay for £7 so I stock up from there. It's one of the best tools I have bought.

[chrscmbs]

Hello Ben_O and Castafiore,

 

much approcoated advice... looks like i need to do some shopping now.

 

Thanks

Chris.

[skoughi]

Hydrochloric acid, patio cleaner is an easily obtainable type, which is what I used after removing as much rust as possible with a wire cup on an angle grinder. Brush it on and work it in with steel wool, had to repeat this several times on heavy pitting then wash with water, dry and then I used jenolite (sulphuric acid) to stop rust reforming. Do a panel then etch prime to seal in, someone may be able to recommend a good suitable primer .

[chrscmbs]

Hello, again... thanks very much for your thoughts on this topic... its great.

 

regards

Chris.

[skoughi]

Oh and if you ever try the acid route please please use correct PPE! The fumes from the hydrochloric can be quite bad as well, would advise to do it outside!

[hellom8]

I have used hammerite rust remover gel in the past, which has done the trick.

I use an angle ginder first to get rid of most of it.