34 replies to this topic

[Black.Ghost]

I have a couple of engines sat in my garage, and I am trying to decide whether to sell them or rebuild them - something I have never done before. 

 

The first is a 998. It turns over, but on the end of the crank it looks like some weld or something, so I'd need to replace that, plus anything else inside. I know a 998 engine doesn't sell for a great deal. 

 

The second is a 1275 from a Metro. It needs a complete rebuild. However, I have no idea what else inside needs replacing. This includes gear boxes. It does turn over, but it is also missing a head. I know these sell for considerably more than a 998, but I'm doubtful I would recover my costs. My thought on this one is keep and it rebuild it, not necessarily now, and aim for around the 100 horses mark. I have a perfectly sound car now but I never know what might happen in the future! 

 

I'd like to build one, but would the fact its my first engine hinder the resale value at all? I could fairly easily take pictures at every stage which might help. I'd also want to be sure I wasn't selling a dud to someone - mainly because I wouldn't want them to waste their money, and 2 because ultimately they know where I live and so I don't want an unhappy buyer turning up causing trouble!

 

Any thoughts? I have no engine spares, although I know I could buy pretty much everything I needed on here. 

Edited by Black.Ghost, 17 November 2014 - 11:09 PM.

[Cooperman]

My advice would be to rebuild the 1275 yourself, but not to aim for 100 bhp. A 100 bhp engine is 'cammy' and will need fairly frequent rebuilding because of the very high revs needed to obtain a genuine 100 bhp. It would also need different gears and a low FDR. What is more important is getting the best torque and that is much easier.

There is a good machining company not far from you, C & F Motors at Henlow Camp. who can do the boring, deck the block, re-grind the crank, skim the head and re-seat the valves.

Use an MG Metro camshaft and head. Mildly gas-flow the head to improve the breathing a bit, fit an HIF44 carb on an alloy manifold, a decent exhaust system, lighten the flywheel a bit and build the engine very carefully.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Edited to add that I can find you a head fit for gas-flowing, bigger lead-free valves and skimming if you are interested. I won't want a lot for it and I'm not far from you.

Edited by Cooperman, 17 November 2014 - 11:32 PM.

[mab01uk]

If you intend to keep your Mini into the long term future and you have the storage space, I would keep both engines and gearboxes in stock.......they are not going to get any cheaper or more common in the future when you may need one of them or a part. If a 1275 head comes up for sale at a reasonable price buy it to make your one complete. The decison whether you rebuild them or not yourself can then be taken at your leisure depending on circumstances at the time.

Edited by mab01uk, 17 November 2014 - 11:26 PM.

[Black.Ghost]

Cooperman, how much would you be looking at money wise for the work you have indicated? 

 

Is pressure washing enough or will parts need to be chemically cleaned? Is this something I can do at home, or a specialist service?

 

Neither of these engines would go in my mini - its an injection engine and its a Grand Prix, so the engine is pretty unique and has the blue Janspeed head etc. If anything goes drastically wrong with that, after crying a lot I would get it rebuilt! At present I don't have another mini, and I think the gf might kill me if one were to magically appear! I think I would have to sell the GP to do so. I really like the idea of a track focussed mini for a bit of fun but I believe the cost will prevent it, certainly for now as there are many other things I need to sort out financially first. 

 

I know what you mean about them getting rarer etc. The 998 almost isn't worth selling, as they go for so little these days. 

[mab01uk]

"Ultimate Mini Builder - 1380cc A-series" by Minifilms is an extremely detailed DVD and offers invaluable guidance to anyone considering a home build. Extensive chapters and a comprehensive opening menu mean you can jump to exactly the section you want to watch, prior to heading into the garage! Seeing the job being done by a professional will give you enormous confidence to tackle your own rebuild"

 

Ultimate Mini Builder 1380 A series. Ultimate Mini Builder - 1380cc A-series is your comprehensive guide to building a high performance fast-road 1380cc A-series engine. With over four hours of in-depth footage, watch as Mini expert Bill Sollis strips a Metro 1275cc unit and then rebuilds it to 1380cc with all the perfect components for long-lasting and reliable power! And to proove the result, we run the engine on a dyno - revealing over 100bhp and 100lbs/ft of torque

http://www.minispare...assic/T373.aspx

 

Less detailed is this one from Frosts:-

BMC A series Engine Rebuild DVD

Learn how to completely dismantle, restore and maintain a BMC A series Engine from Classic Car Engine Masterclass Library.

In this DVD we show you, step by step, the complete dismantling and renovation of a classic A-series engine, as fitted to the Austin 7, A 30, Austin Healey Sprite, Mini, Morris Minor and many others.

As well as the complete engine re-build we also show you how to strip and service the carburettor and distributor, and set the engine and ignition timings. The movie is full of 'Top Tips' from the hugely experienced mechanic/presenter that the printed manuals never tell you.

This DVD is essential viewing for any A-series classic engine owner, whether undertaking a complete overhaul or simply setting the tappets and timing. (40 mins)

http://www.frost.co....CFQPMtAod-CoAog

[Fast Ivan]

slarks have recently had a mini in their rollers chucking out 98 BHP, the engine was built around the ACD-RS cam, the RS cam's power band is between 1250 and 6000 rpm and has a smooth idle.

 

engine spec - 1380 powermax pistons, balanced rods, arp bolts, main strap, 9.75 CR, Calver ST sports head, maniflow stage 2 LCB stainless manifold, C40 exhaust, 1.3 roller rockers, twin HIF38 with stub stacks and ITG filter, lightened flywheel

 

cost wise you've got to be in to the thousands even if your doing it yourself

[Guess-Works.com]

If you're building any engine to sell, the first thing you need to ask yourself is.... Do I provide a warranty..

 

If the answer is no, then don't bother starting... You'll save yourself lots of time, money and headaches by just selling the unit as it, in fact giving it away would probably be cheaper.

 

I you're building it for yourself then great, but treat the money you spend as lost money, you won't get it back.

 

Most engine builds I undertake cost the customer somewhere between 2 and 3 thousand, and I don't consider that to be expensive, neither do I consider the engines to be 'performance' they are generally good solid road engines with selected upgrades to improve longevity of service and reliability. 

[Black.Ghost]

I think I'll keep and rebuild the 998, and sell the 1275. I don't have a car to put it in, and don't really have the spare cash required to throw at it right now either.

 

The 998 on the other hand won't require too much work and should be good practice. Then I just need to keep my eyes peeled for the right car to put it (but don't tell the missus!)

[Mrpeanut]

I had my 1330 built for:

Rebore £120
Crank didn't need grinding (would have cost £120 I think)
New cam (Minispares evo001 £70)
Followers £30
Bearings £70
Pistons and rings £150
Thrust washers £30
Cam lube £10
Oil & water pumps £60
Gaskets £30
Machine shop to build short engine £150
Gearbox overhaul £300
New clutch kit £80
Labour to build up and time cam £200
New core plugs, cam bearings and fitting £120 ish

Total £1420 ish for a cracking engine.

If you're sensible you don't have to spend a fortune.

Edited by Mrpeanut, 19 November 2014 - 09:05 AM.

[racingbob]

I had my 1330 built for:

Rebore £120
Crank didn't need grinding (would have cost £120 I think)
New cam (Minispares evo001 £70)
Followers £30
Bearings £70
Pistons and rings £150
Thrust washers £30
Cam lube £10
Oil & water pumps £60
Gaskets £30
Machine shop to build short engine £150
Gearbox overhaul £300
New clutch kit £80
Labour to build up and time cam £200
New core plugs, cam bearings and fitting £120 ish

Total £1420 ish for a cracking engine.

If you're sensible you don't have to spend a fortune.

me and jim anxiously waiting to see how much more HP and torque you got

compared to ours wouldn't be surprised mid 80,s for both

[Guess-Works.com]

I had my 1330 built for:

Rebore £120
Crank didn't need grinding (would have cost £120 I think)
New cam (Minispares evo001 £70)
Followers £30
Bearings £70
Pistons and rings £150
Thrust washers £30
Cam lube £10
Oil & water pumps £60
Gaskets £30
Machine shop to build short engine £150
Gearbox overhaul £300
New clutch kit £80
Labour to build up and time cam £200
New core plugs, cam bearings and fitting £120 ish

Total £1420 ish for a cracking engine.

If you're sensible you don't have to spend a fortune.

 

No mention of head, which can quite easily soak up 250-500

[Mrpeanut]

 

I had my 1330 built for:

Rebore £120
Crank didn't need grinding (would have cost £120 I think)
New cam (Minispares evo001 £70)
Followers £30
Bearings £70
Pistons and rings £150
Thrust washers £30
Cam lube £10
Oil & water pumps £60
Gaskets £30
Machine shop to build short engine £150
Gearbox overhaul £300
New clutch kit £80
Labour to build up and time cam £200
New core plugs, cam bearings and fitting £120 ish

Total £1420 ish for a cracking engine.

If you're sensible you don't have to spend a fortune.

 

No mention of head, which can quite easily soak up 250-500

 

 

Correct.  I had the head already.  I have to say that I'm struggling to see where £2-£3k for an average engine goes. 

[cooperdan]

I built a 1380 no more than 3 months ago. I know full well i spent 3k and half, like anything its little things that add up... and they do.
I mean could saved money on certain things perhaps. But i was always in a quest for realibility, drivable and ultimatly they requires cost...
Megajolt over 300
Head over 400
Twib carbs by minispeed over 500
Etc etc.
Is it worth it for an a series. Of course it isnt lol... but at same time everything else makes up for that.

[Mrpeanut]

I built a 1380 no more than 3 months ago. I know full well i spent 3k and half, like anything its little things that add up... and they do.
I mean could saved money on certain things perhaps. But i was always in a quest for realibility, drivable and ultimatly they requires cost...
Megajolt over 300
Head over 400
Twib carbs by minispeed over 500
Etc etc.
Is it worth it for an a series. Of course it isnt lol... but at same time everything else makes up for that.

 

Twin carbs and megajolt etc are add ons and shouldn't ne confused with the cost of an engine/box rebuild imo.

 

The op is enquiring is enquiring about the cost of a rebuild.  In my experience, a very good, powerful, and reliable engine can be built for less that £1500 without having to do any work yourself.

[racingbob]

 

I built a 1380 no more than 3 months ago. I know full well i spent 3k and half, like anything its little things that add up... and they do.
I mean could saved money on certain things perhaps. But i was always in a quest for realibility, drivable and ultimatly they requires cost...
Megajolt over 300
Head over 400
Twib carbs by minispeed over 500
Etc etc.
Is it worth it for an a series. Of course it isnt lol... but at same time everything else makes up for that.

 

Twin carbs and megajolt etc are add ons and shouldn't ne confused with the cost of an engine/box rebuild imo.

 

The op is enquiring is enquiring about the cost of a rebuild.  In my experience, a very good, powerful, and reliable engine can be built for less that £1500 without having to do any work yourself.

 

sounds about right, I remember phoning a engine rec place on ebay cant think what they called

think was Bingham he said 1500 full powerplant including a 266 and some porting

and that was out to 1330